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On my "new" tall rig I noticed that the "skylight" over the vberth is cracked from a previous someone stepping on it. Will this pose a problem with leaking? If so, how do I repair/replace the cracked plexiglass? If it needs replacing can I use lexan?
Help from the experts would be greatly appreciated
I bought that kit from CD--it's the same material as the original, which IMHO isn't strong enough (and eventually weakens in sunlight). I suggest a thicker piece of Lexan, beveled around the edges as appropriate. The outer lense sits on the edges of the plywood deck core, apparently held by silicone sealer. Until you replace it, you should seal it up with tape, silicone, or something to keep water from accumulating between the two lenses. I removed and never replaced the inner lense--it seemed to make more sense to leave it open inside.
Here is a fix for around $20. I took the old lens to an auto glass shop and had them cut a duplicate out of a scrap piece of tinted, laminated windshield glass. Works fine and doesn't mind being stepped on one bit.
My old 1986 C22 had the same thing. Replaced it with lexan from a local plastics shop. Did away with the inner one. In my opinion that little window is a design flaw by Catalina. A leak waiting to happen.
Dave - The deadlight you installed on <i>Passage</i> is still working just fine, even without the inner portion. It lets tons of light in during daylight hours.
Never a drop of water comes through the deadlight, so if it ain't broke . . . .
I always caution passengers from stepping on it, but so far, it has held up like a champ.
Davidp. Do Not use 4200. It is not compatible with lexan and other plastics. I just did this job . You can use Life Seal, It is compatible and has very good adhesion. The new lens from CD is better than the original. The original was Acrylic, The new one is Polycarbonate (Lexan) Much stronger. This is a very easy job with the new lens and the right caulk. I think others have run into problems by using caulks that aren't made for the job. Please don't use silicone, It has very little adhesion and is sure to leak. I dont see why some complain about the deadlight leaking, give it a break . Its held up for 20+ years!http://boatlife.ipower.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index& cPath=6& zenid=14f4baf72c3d7445714e510ad2d637c6
[url="http://www.sikaindustry.com/tds-ipd-sikaflex295uv-us.pdf"]Sikaflex 295uv[/url] Sikaflex 295UV is a fast curing one component polyurethane based adhesive, specifically formulated to provide high performance bonding for windows and portholes. It is suitable for all types of glass including polycarbonates, acrylics and polystyrenes.
Glad I didn't buy 4200, and I do remember someone saying to not use silicone. I've used Life Seal before, but don't have any on hand, and WM is way across town. Since CD recommends using a polyurethane sealant, I bought at a nearby HD a tube of PL Polyurethane Window, Door, and Siding Sealant, a commercial sealant that is supposed to have a 50 year life. The tube says it will seal vinyl. Being a polyurethane based sealant, do you think it will do the job?
<font face="Comic Sans MS"><font size="2"><font color="navy">I just had a 1/4" piece of milk plexi cut to size. I beveled the edges with sanding paper and used life caulk. That was 8 years ago and it's fine.</font id="navy"></font id="size2"></font id="Comic Sans MS">
Davidp, Polyurathane is what 4200 is and isn't compatible with lexan so my guess is no. I used the Life Seal because it worked great and comes in clear or white. I used the clear so the caulk wouldn't show and to let maximum light in and is sold in a small tube. The Sikaflex works very well also but is sold in black or white and comes in cartridges. way too much for this little job. If you don't have a marine store near you I would just tape over the light to stop the leak and order the 2.8 oz tube from Defender. Good company and very fast shipping.http://www.defender.com/ Also when you do this roughen up the mateing surfaces with some sand paper, do the job and cover with a piece of plastic overnight It will be rock solid the next day. CD should fix there site. When you order the new lens they have 4200 as the sealant. Trust me this is wrong.
Oops. I did the deed today using the using the PL Polyurethane stuff I had on hand. I hope this won't end up being a super mess. I did clean out all of the old sealant from the recesed space. It looked like silicone sealant. We'll see what happens. I won't be able to check on it until Wednesday.
I will probably fit for lexan eventually but for the time being, I picked up a cutting board, those white plastic/nylon? ones, and cut it to fit. I have no idea what the sun will do to it in the end but it cleaned up that mess, lets in some nice diffuse light, you can do an irish jig on it and it cost me $3.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jimik</i> <br />Just thought I would add, for my '83 c25 resurrection project, I found the skylight under a pile of duct tape looking like this...
I will probably fit for lexan eventually but for the time being, I picked up a cutting board, those white plastic/nylon? ones, and cut it to fit. I have no idea what the sun will do to it in the end but it cleaned up that mess, lets in some nice diffuse light, you can do an irish jig on it and it cost me $3. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
What did you use to adhere it to the boat? That HDPE (cutting board) is notoriously hard to adhere.
HDPE needs to be heated until the sheen disappears and use a special adhesive, then it might stick to itself. Good luck trying to stick it to something else. Try putting a few barnacles under it - that is the only thing that seems to stick to it reliably.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Nautiduck</i> <br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jimik</i> <br />Just thought I would add, for my '83 c25 resurrection project, I found the skylight under a pile of duct tape looking like this...
I will probably fit for lexan eventually but for the time being, I picked up a cutting board, those white plastic/nylon? ones, and cut it to fit. I have no idea what the sun will do to it in the end but it cleaned up that mess, lets in some nice diffuse light, you can do an irish jig on it and it cost me $3. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
What did you use to adhere it to the boat? That HDPE (cutting board) is notoriously hard to adhere. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
The plexi below was cracked too so I pulled it off and put a couple of small screws up from beneath to keep the board in place and then used silicon to caulk the seam from the top. No leaks so far but not a remedy I would expect to last forever.
That's good info though wrt HDPE, thank you. I didn't realize that it is tough to stick.
That's about it. also, you might want to use a brick on the deadlight lens to hold it down while the caulk cures. The real trick is knowing how much to apply. I used a bit too much and had a hard time getting the lens to lie flush with the deck. As it cures, the lens will tend to ride up, hence the brick idea. With hindsight, I think I should have applied the caulk to the beveled edge on the lens in a continuous bead, not to the opening in the deck.
<< I suggest a thicker piece of Lexan, beveled around the edges as appropriate. >>
Well.. I used the Catalina Direct product as they currently ship it. Thicker material than the OEM and beveled at the edge. It is higher on the deck in one corner. I'm going to try to sand down the sharp corner sticking up after it cures up.
At $30 plus $9 shipping it was a bit of a pain to see it sits high.
I chiseled out the old caulk and chiseled out some of the gelcoat trying to open it up enough to get the new one bedded down well. If I had had power tools with me I'm sure I could have made it fit properly, but it was hand tools only and I'm on the hard right now so moving around the boat is a little scary.
Good news is they sent the drawings for it from 84 and I can get a new one cut.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by redeye</i> <br /><< I suggest a thicker piece of Lexan, beveled around the edges as appropriate. >>
Well.. I used the Catalina Direct product as they currently ship it. Thicker material than the OEM and beveled at the edge...
Good news is they sent the drawings for it from 84 and I can get a new one cut. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I wonder, if they are not copyright, if you can scan or take a pic and post the drawing? I am about to go shopping for a local lexan supply. If not, how thick is the CD version?
The new decklight CD sells is better, it is thicker and it probably fits just right for most boats. On mine it just needed routing on the bottom and the corners rounded off, cause right now I've got something on the deck that could cut your foot.
I just did not have any power tools on hand when I did the install.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.