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 Help with Reefing
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frankr
Captain

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256 Posts

Response Posted - 05/30/2007 :  11:49:22  Show Profile
I didn't use any internal boom means for the second reef. I used two cheek blocks and two pad eyes mounted on the starboard side of the boom. The aft cheek block was positioned so that I got a near 45 degree pull down on the new clew location. The other cheek just allowed the lie to do a 90 degree turn up to the block on the new tack location, where it continued down to a turning block on the mast base. I had a mast gate installed on the mast to allow the slugs to drop down far enough. The picture shows the first reef already employed and the setup for the second reef. I replaced the original deck organizer with a quad organizer and the rope clutch with a triple clutch. That gave me first reef, second reef and main halyard on the starboard side. I remounted the original rope clutch on the port side to give me jib halyard, down haul. I used the original organizer to make a double organizer on the port side. I don't own the boat any more ( upgraded to a C36) so I can't get any more pictures of the set up. I may still have the original and could repost in a larger size.
Arlyn - I redid the link in my original post - I didn't have any problems with it being too long to cause scrolling.

Edited by - frankr on 05/30/2007 11:50:46
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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts

Response Posted - 05/30/2007 :  13:22:48  Show Profile  Visit Arlyn Stewart's Homepage
Thanks Frank... the scroll problem only happens on those of us who are getting sight impaired and can't go to the higher screen resolutions.

btw, your reefing rigging description is a good model and only differs from the Harken model in that they recommend the forward cheek block on the mast to get a little forward pull on the tack. I'm betting however that far more are rigged as you did than as Harken suggest.

Did you ever have a thought that more forward pull was needed at the tack? Reason for asking is the Mainsheet tech article is coming up and it will cover the reefing issues and an opinion here would be helpful.

Edited by - Arlyn Stewart on 05/30/2007 13:27:36
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RedRedWhine
Navigator

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USA
167 Posts

Response Posted - 05/30/2007 :  14:45:19  Show Profile  Visit RedRedWhine's Homepage
Arlyn

I have not been able to reef yet so the slugs were not broken from that. Is it hard to replace them? I will take some pictures this weekend and post them to show what my system looks like. I also want to set up the lazy jack and I have been searching the forum and found some goo ideas. Thanks for the help.

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frankr
Captain

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256 Posts

Response Posted - 05/30/2007 :  15:08:20  Show Profile
It seemed to pull down pretty good since the mast gate allowed the slugs to drop all the way down close to the boom, the other slugs should keep it forward enough and the turning block at the base was large enought to keep the alignment good. Without a mast gate second reef was sloppy as the slugs could not drop low enough. As I said, I don't own the boat anymore and I may have also used the small block on the mast that was previously used in reefing. It has been 3 years ago and my memory isn't that clear (old age also). I'm not sure if the new owner of the boat belongs to this forum - I told them it was an excellant source of info. Is C250K hull # 690 lurking out there????

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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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2980 Posts

Response Posted - 05/30/2007 :  17:38:35  Show Profile  Visit Arlyn Stewart's Homepage
Don... I've not needed to replace sail slugs so not sure of the process... deferring to someone who has.

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JohnMD
Navigator

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USA
207 Posts

Response Posted - 05/30/2007 :  19:38:41  Show Profile
Here's how you replace slugs:

http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=10532&SearchTerms=sail

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AADIVER
Admiral

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USA
966 Posts

Response Posted - 06/01/2007 :  21:46:15  Show Profile  Visit AADIVER's Homepage
Forgot to mention that instead of the 10 buck apiece O rings to secure the blocks, I used two 1&3/16" cotter rings. A package of 4 costs $2.80 at WM (part #5546MP). When I have a choice to spend 20 bucks or a buck forty, the Scotsman in me wins out ;-)
And BTW, the cotter rings work perfectly.

P.S.: just realized, the $2.80 price was from the '06 catalogue. I actually paid the increased price of $3.29 for the cotters. Still a steal of a deal compared to their overpriced ss O rings.

Edited by - AADIVER on 06/02/2007 12:28:21
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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts

Response Posted - 06/03/2007 :  08:58:13  Show Profile  Visit Arlyn Stewart's Homepage
Sounds like a good deal Frank if the rings can handle the major loads on the leach cringle when the wind kicks to twenty five plus. I gotta admit however that I'm wondering about a ring designed as a pin keeper handling the load. The rings that Frog used are rigging rings designed to handle loads rather than just holding a pin.

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AADIVER
Admiral

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USA
966 Posts

Response Posted - 06/03/2007 :  22:16:36  Show Profile  Visit AADIVER's Homepage
Good point. But if and/or when the wind tops 20, I stay "in the barn" or return to it toot sweet. But if enroute to Catalina and the wind tops 20, I'd probably drop the main, reef the foresail a bit and pretend I'm a cat boat. Bottom line: I'm a light and variable cruising sailor, not a rail in the water dude. Thanks for the tip 'cause the first ring I used was nylon and it popped right thru in 9 to 12 knots. I should have read the disclaimer: "Not suitable for use in heavily loaded...applications." Pays to read the small print.

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