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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
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Dave, I recall you moved your motor over more the transom and cut a piece of the motor to enable you to turn it both ways. I have the boat in the yard for the next few days and want to do this as well. I have a couple questions?
1. Did you move the metal plate on the front side of the transom or leave it? 2. Did you move the square piece of starboard on the aft side of the transom and fill the old screw holes or did you use another piece altogether? 3. Our motors are the same, Do you have any pictures of the front of your motor so I can see where you made your cuts.
Tom, Just to confirm: I have an 8 hp Nissan 2-stroke that I assume was bought in '97 since that's the model year of my boat. My boat did not come with any plates front or back, so I had nothing to move in that regard. I suspect you would have to move both of yours.
I made a plate for aft of the transom out of a cutting board (too cheap to buy starboard). Since moving the outboard to starboard covered the cockpit drain, I cut a notch in the plate like this: Picture your cockpit drain in the top of the notch. You can see a faint outline of where the motor mount rests right over the drain hole. Adding a steel plate to the front side is still on my list of things to do.
[url="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/davendeb/misc/ob_well.jpg"]Click here[/url] for the only picture I can find of the outboard. I can take a better close-up on Saturday. You should be able to zoom this picture a bit and see what's left of the bar that used to extend forward just below the choke and kill switch on the left. This bar went across to where the tiller handle is mounted. Removing the bar had no effect on the structural integrity of the tiller attachment point. The picture was made to show outboard dealers just how narrow the well is, hence the line in the picture.
BTW, the tiller handle has to be pointed up in order to turn the motor. You have to grab the engine cover to turn it, or set up a soft link, etc.
Thanks Dave that is exactly what I needed. I can make out the cuts on the motor just fine in the picture, so no need to take more pictures for me. Our motors are the same,(97 8hp 2-stroke)except I have the Tohatsu model.
There is a factory installed piece of starboard on the aft transom but its only about 1/4 inch thick. I'm not sure that will be thick enough to set the motor back far enough to get good drainage out the drain hole. Do you recall how thick of board you used? I'm thinking it would need to be at least about 1/2" thick.
I'll most likely take the 4 screws out metal plate fill the holes with Marine-tex, move it over and remount it. My concern now is, will the metal plate cover the drain hole? I'll have to check that out this weekend.
Tom...I used a cutting board aft as well. On the front, the motor mounting washer caught part of the stainless mount and I simply shimmed the rest with a washer. If it catches any part of it... it will take most of the stress and IMHO doesn't need moved.
Okay its done! pulled the motor, pulled the front metal plate and rear plastic plate. Filled the old screw holes with Marine-Tex. Moved everything over about 2 inches. Re-drilled and mounted both front and rear plates. Broke out my dremel tool and cut the front handle grip off the motor.
Looks good Tom. I took saome pictures today, but I'm not going to post them after seeing how CLEAN your drain area is and how dirty mine is. That and you don't need them now.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.