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Seized Masthead Clevis Pin

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CC83
Deckhand

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USA
8 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/10/2022 : 21:24:06

A somewhat embarrassing problem here, but long story short the forestay masthead clevis pin on my Tall Rig is seized and horribly mangled. Pictures at the link here https://link.shutterfly.com/U3WVClLGiob. Not pictured is me trying to drill out the back of the pin and accomplishing nothing.

I discovered the issue while replacing all of my standing rigging about 2 months ago, and I did the whole heat gun/PB blaster/twist-to-move combo 15-20 times since then for many hours. Managed to get the backstay pin out, but sadly no luck on the forestay. I finally received my last new shroud today and really mangled everything while frustrated trying to finally get the pin out so I can sail again/stop paying for mast storage.

Since I can't find anywhere that makes the Tall Rig masthead, I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations? The last-ditch plan I've been formulating is to cut the pin from inside the masthead to remove the old forestay, leave the seized parts attached, and attach the new forestay to the more forward hole where the Spinnaker Halyard attachment also mounts to the masthead. Does anyone foresee any issues with moving the forestay attachment point the ~2 inches this would require?

Roamer
Deckhand

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USA
21 Posts

Response Posted - 03/11/2022 : 07:47:29

Lack of sufficient strength in that part of the masthead casting. Try working a thin hacksaw blade in against the inside of the slot where the swaged forestay eye is located. Cut the clevis pin flush with the casting on both sides of the slot. Now put a socket (from a socket wrench set) on the outside of the casting over the end of the pin, and a piece of steel rod, smaller in diameter than the clevis pin, on the inside. Use a C-clamp to push the pin from the inside, out of the hole.

fadeaway: 1984 TR/FK Trad

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9013 Posts

Response Posted - 03/11/2022 : 09:22:31

I would also be a little concerned about the leverage on the casting from the forestay at that forward hole--if not for the casting itslef, then possibly for the top edge of the mast. Cutting the pin as Roamer describes is probably a good step. Then whatever you try next is working to break the bond against only one side of the casting--not both at once. Another forum suggests repeating the PB (With time to soak), heating the casting, and applying some dry ice to the pin.

I recall using a hammer and a nail-set (to avoid mushrooming the pin). I also recall using a vice-grip and tapping that with a hammer to do a sort of "shock-twist"... I don't remember what ended up working.

You could ask Catalina for the source and spec of your TR mast extrusion--if that source is selling or has recently sold that extrusion to boat or mast makers, they might have masthead castings that fit it.

However it works out, be sure to use an anti-seize product when you put it back together. (Pardon my stating the obvious...)

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 03/11/2022 09:30:12

Lee Panza
Captain

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USA
465 Posts

Response Posted - 03/11/2022 : 09:51:46

Some variation on the process that Roamer described is, without doubt, the best approach. Get it out, without damaging the casting, if you can.

Before cutting the pin, however, I'd suggest putting together a "bridge" to straddle the pin head, so the C-clamp can bear directly on the opposite end, and drive the entire pin partially out. Even just moving it a short distance, until the C-clamp reaches the side of the casting, will break the corrosion binding the pin, and you'll have more success removing it the rest of the way. Rotate it with a vise-grips on the head (which will now be easy to grasp) while applying a light lubricant to begin to soak into the joints. Then drive it out with a short piece cut from a large nail serving as a drift pin.

The socket that Roamer described serves as a compression tube; this is important (!), and I'm glad Roamer included it. Instead of cutting the pin and sliding a compression tube around it, however, you could cut a couple of short blocks to fit snugly between the legs of the casting, straddling the pin. Cut them out of hardwood (with the grain parallel to the pin) or, better, use square metal bar stock (from Home Depot). They need to fit snugly.

If you still cannot remove the pin, you can use the outer holes in the casting for the forestay attachment. Mine had been set up that way when I acquired it. In your case, the spinnaker crane showing in one of your pictures will add strength, so this should work OK.

When you put things back together, coat the insides of the holes, and the sides of the pins, with Tef-Gel or Lanocote to prevent future corrosion seizing. Stainless steel accelerates corrosion in aluminum when the two are in direct contact (keep this in mind whenever putting screws into aluminum components).

The trouble with a destination - any destination, really - is that it interrupts The Journey.

Lee Panza
SR/SK #2134
San Francisco Bay
(Brisbane, CA)

Edited by - Lee Panza on 03/11/2022 09:54:58

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4275 Posts

Response Posted - 03/18/2022 : 00:29:37

I was trying to get spark plugs out of an aluminum block car engine. The plugs had been factory installed and had over 100k miles. When trying to remove they immediately started squeaking so I stopped before galling the threads.

After thinking about it I decided to start the engine for 30 - 45 seconds. Tried removing the plugs immediately afterwards. Came right out with no squeaking or extra effort required.

I�m wondering if using a heat gun might be heating the casting and the pin together. You might consider using a propane torch and heating the casting slightly adjacent to the pin and directing the heat away from the pin while heating. You can control the direction of heat much easier with a propane torch than with a heat gun.

The propane torch will heat the casting much quicker than a heat gun and in a more pinpointed manner thus allowing the aluminum to expand at a faster pace than the steel pin. This should break the bond.

Just offering another suggestion.

Association Member

GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX

Edited by - GaryB on 03/18/2022 00:35:01

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3474 Posts

Response Posted - 03/18/2022 : 11:26:14

I cut mine out on the inside of the cast masthead on both sides with a cutting disc on a drill. Removed the forestay and middle of the pin and then punched out the pin ends from the inside on both sides. I felt the pins were deformed from high loads rather than corroded.

Probably from the masthead slamming into the mast of the boat in the next slip during a storm.

I would not think the forward pin location would be any weaker on this cast piece than the one just inside of it.. just look at how far out the backstay side extends and it takes the real loads.

Ray in Atlanta, Ga.
"Lee Key" '84 Catalina 25
Standard Rig / Fin Keel

Edited by - redeye on 03/18/2022 11:45:47

CC83
Deckhand

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USA
8 Posts

Response Posted - 03/27/2022 : 08:49:30

Thanks for the good advice here. Being busy with work, I ended up taking the piece to a local metal shop that claimed to specialize in removing seized bolts. Took the guy a lottttt of heat and a pneumatic hammer to remove the pin, and he ended up breaking part of the masthead fitting in the process. He thankfully welded it back together afterwords, but I think it would have taken years off my life to get that bolt out myself.

Biggest takeaway for me is to always use Mare-Lube and try to move those pins every year or so...

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5851 Posts

Response Posted - 03/27/2022 : 09:27:36

In case you have any further problems with the masthead, CD says that new tall rig mastheads aren't available anymore, but CD suggests an owner buy a new standard rig masthead, cut off the upper part of the new masthead, and cut off the lower part of the old tall rig masthead that goes into the mast. Then have a skilled aluminum welder weld the new upper part to the old lower part.

Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind"
previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22
Past Commodore

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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.