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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

DIY boom brake

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blanik
Navigator

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Canada
210 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/01/2012 : 16:58:37

i made an inexpensive boom brake and it works quite well! (i didn't invent it, i got the idea online) with just a rock climbing "8"

i tightened it by hand on the cleat and gybed the boat and the boom wouldn't move! it's an easy install since i just attached the "8" with a piece of 1/4" rope but you could put a second boom vang hound to attach it... and two blocks to the stanchion bases (the boom brake can also work as a boom vang!) during a gybe you just have to loosen the line a bit and the boom will gybe slowly to the other side!

all i needed was 48' of 1/2" line, 5' of 1/4" line an "8" and two blocks!

here's the "8" i used:
http://www.lacordee.com/eng/product/black-diamond-super-8-descendeur/2567

1984 C25 FK/SR #4593
Lake Champlain

Edited by - blanik on 09/02/2012 09:38:49

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5864 Posts

Response Posted - 09/02/2012 : 10:00:35

Now that is a really cool idea, and undoubtedly much less expensive than a commercially available boom brake.

I wonder if you could attach it to a car on your genoa track, instead of the lifeline stanchion? The stanchion should be strong enough, but I have seen two stanchions ripped out of the deck on boats other than C25s, and that has made me hesitant to use them for significant loads.

Edited by - on

awetmore
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1144 Posts

Response Posted - 09/02/2012 : 10:06:56

If you can't use the genoa track you could also route them to the inside of the main chainplates. It looks like the routing would be better too and keep them out of the way of the handrail.

I do like the idea, thanks for sharing it!

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blanik
Navigator

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Canada
210 Posts

Response Posted - 09/02/2012 : 10:40:29

i guess one could easily put a shackle with a block on the remaining hole in the main chainplate but i'm not sure about it's resistance to a sideways force, i guess the pulling force of the shroud would absorb some of the shear force?

anyway the force on the boom break isn't that strong, i think the boom will fold before the stanchion will rip out (remember that the block is attached at the base so there's no leverage force on it, you could technically cut the stanchion above the block and it would become a "deck organizer"

i tried to manually pull on the boom while the brake was applied (before trying it for real) and the boom was bending a lot, if i'd push harder it would break...

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PZell
Admiral

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USA
548 Posts

Response Posted - 09/02/2012 : 13:45:30

Cool idea. It is similar to what I described as my 'preventer' in a different post, except that mine is just a line clipped to boom that runs to either side as necessary and that runs back to cockpit similar to what you have. Mine is run thru block on genoa track and then back to cam cleat on side of cabin top. That makes quick release and is out of the way. The same cleat is used for tweekers when using spinnaker.

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Tomas Kruska
Admiral

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Czech Republic
522 Posts

Response Posted - 09/03/2012 : 05:01:40

Cool idea, but my question is, do you really need two blocks?
I suppose that you can tie one of the line ends to the stanchion base and have only one end on the cleat.

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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9022 Posts

Response Posted - 09/03/2012 : 07:39:01

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Tomas Kruska
 Cool idea, but my question is, do you really need two blocks?
I suppose that you can tie one of the line ends to the stanchion base and have only one end on the cleat.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I like that he can control the tension to release the boom from either side of the cockpit. I'd also think about adding a couple of fairlead cam cleats for quick, easy control.

I've seen a description "8" approach before--glad to hear it works so well!

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PZell
Admiral

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USA
548 Posts

Response Posted - 09/03/2012 : 13:48:58

Revisiting this post I am wondering if application could be applied to a tiller tamer contraption also.

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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5260 Posts

Response Posted - 09/03/2012 : 19:30:42

You probably could but why? I ran a 4" bolt through the tiller extension receptacle and put two big fender washers on it with a few small washers in between. I ran some 3/16 line between both aft cleats. A wing nut allows me to adjust the distance between the washers and thus the "grab" friction on the line. For me, this is the perfect tiller tamer. I think it cost me $2.00 for the washers and I had the rest in my spare parts inventory.
I'll snap a photo next time I'm at the boat.

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PZell
Admiral

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USA
548 Posts

Response Posted - 09/06/2012 : 08:20:01

Bruce, That's basically what I have done except that I drop an eye bolt in the tiller extention hole. A continuous line is looped through bolt and from tiller loops back on itself from the aft cleats on both sides and rolling hitches are tied on each side so tiller angle can easily be adjusted. These lines are connected to bungee cords at cleats to give it a little give. But, always looking for possible improvements. The climbing "8" looks like it may have possiblities in my application.

Edited by - PZell on 09/06/2012 08:23:49

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.