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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 Catalina 250 Specific Forum
 CHAIN PLATES AND BALLAST
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frog0911
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1349 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/12/2004 :  12:59:39  Show Profile
Does anyone else get this stuff on there port and starboard chain plates. I do not think a four month old boat would have this problem. If you do how do you get it off?





I temp. install the two 12 gallon water tanks and added 211lbs. of water the net result was to lower the bow 1.75". The tanks CG are 16" forward of the mast support post and about 12" foward of the keel. Based on the above for every 100lbs added around the keel area the nose would drop .82" until buoyancy equilibrium is reached. How much weight that is I have no idea.

Frog and The General

C250, Pretty Penny II, #743
FLEET 25
Coronado 15, M-Cube, #3316

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2004 :  13:11:18  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
Is that a good application for naval jelley?

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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3321 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2004 :  15:18:40  Show Profile
Jerry - we had the same problem on the Big Cat at the coast. I cleaned up the thick rust areas with a small bronze brush, used WM's metal cleaner on the whole area to get rid of the rest and then applied Wichinox according to the directions (how cute - actually reading directions! ). The Wichinox repacificates the stainless and it solved the problem.
Derek

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Buzz Maring
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1764 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2004 :  18:15:17  Show Profile
<font color="blue">The Wichinox repacificates the stainless and it solved the problem. - Derek </font id="blue">

It does WHAT to the stainless? Derek, are you sure that is a word?!

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2004 :  18:25:56  Show Profile
Buzz,

I think "repacificate" means to <b>re</b>place a <b>pacifi</b>er to pla<b>cate</b> a baby!

Edited by - dlucier on 02/12/2004 18:27:44
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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3321 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2004 :  18:54:51  Show Profile
LMDFHO at Don! Good one! Methinks I misspelled the word...it repacifates it - at least that's what the owner told me!
Derek

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DougA
1st Mate

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USA
73 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2004 :  19:15:35  Show Profile
Think the word you are looking for is repassivating. Stainless Steal is passivated by immersing the parts in an acid. Depending on the alloy, there are two different solutions that are used to meet the Mil. Spec. The basic concept is they remove the iron in the alloy from the surface and at the same time form an oxide layer with the remaining chrome and nickel on the surface. This is now considered passivated SS. The stain you see is iron oxide (rust.)

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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3321 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2004 :  21:06:59  Show Profile
Well, I was close! Thanks Doug for the correct word!
Derek

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ssteakley
Captain

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USA
467 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2004 :  22:27:01  Show Profile
Please understand that Derek is well meaning but he is from the other side of the pond.....he is a great sailer but his <b>English</b> is a bit questionable
Steve

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frog0911
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1349 Posts

Response Posted - 02/12/2004 :  23:31:11  Show Profile
My english teacher always told me "the only bad english is when it cannot be understood". IMHO Derek does not have that problem. He has the same problem as most of us who just can't spell big words.
Now will someone tell me were to get this Wichinox or will muriatic acid work just as well.

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DougA
1st Mate

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USA
73 Posts

Response Posted - 02/13/2004 :  14:49:15  Show Profile
DO NOT USE MURIATIC ACID (a corrosive). It will remove the oxide layer and activate, not passivate the surface. Normally 50% Nitric Acid (an oxidizer) is used. Also do not use steel brushes, steel wool, or even the red scotch bright pads. All will leave iron particles on the surface, which will promote rust. Someone mentioned a brass brush, which is ok. A good job is not a do-it-yourself project, but I would try the Wichinox mentioned.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 02/13/2004 :  14:58:55  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
Should the chain plates be replaced under warranty? It would seem so to me.

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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3321 Posts

Response Posted - 02/13/2004 :  15:08:54  Show Profile
Steve - remember what Winston Churchill once said "the English and the Americans are a common people, separated by the same language"!
Derek

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Oscar
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2030 Posts

Response Posted - 02/14/2004 :  21:01:02  Show Profile  Visit Oscar's Homepage
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Stainless Steal <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

Arlyn???? Freudian slip Doug? Or pun intended?

Frog, I have had easier results, although the problem was not as pronounced, with plain cleaner/wax all in one compound. Keeps the salt water out which is the big enabler in all this.

Oopscar....
In Jacksonville, making bu's

Edited by - Oscar on 02/14/2004 21:06:33
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frog0911
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1349 Posts

Response Posted - 02/15/2004 :  00:22:08  Show Profile
Soon as the rain quits I intend to do some cleaning on the chainplates and wax until I can get some of the Wichinox from Sailnet.

Oscar, how often do you fly into Jacksonville and how long do you usually stay? I leave for Orlando tomorrow and will return Monday evening. If you are still here or know when your next trip to JAX will be we'll have to get a hold of Ben and Tom and see if we can get together for lunch.
Thanks to all for the info, I just don't understand why rust in four months. I did not have rust on my C25 when I sold it and it was 25 years old.

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Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2980 Posts

Response Posted - 02/15/2004 :  10:20:16  Show Profile  Visit Arlyn Stewart's Homepage
Jerry, a new boat has bedding compound smears and cleanup is part of the commissioning. Its possible something was used to do that such as a brillo pad which would leave iron oxides on the surface which would do what is depicted in your picture.

After its cleaned and waxed, you may find that the problem is solved.

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Jonl9
Deckhand

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9 Posts

Response Posted - 02/17/2004 :  11:46:10  Show Profile
Every sail boat I've ever owned, including three Cape Dorys, have had some amount of rust someplace on the stainless steel. I always just waxed it off and ultimately the surface iron that is rusting is gone and over time it ceases to rust. The swim platform on my present power boat (sorry, but it IS for sale...) was a mass of surface rust for over a year, it no longer rusts.

I think the rust is not something that is a worry, it's cosmetic, clean it periodically and the problem will ultimately cure itself.

Jon

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