Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Does anyone else get this stuff on there port and starboard chain plates. I do not think a four month old boat would have this problem. If you do how do you get it off?
I temp. install the two 12 gallon water tanks and added 211lbs. of water the net result was to lower the bow 1.75". The tanks CG are 16" forward of the mast support post and about 12" foward of the keel. Based on the above for every 100lbs added around the keel area the nose would drop .82" until buoyancy equilibrium is reached. How much weight that is I have no idea.
Jerry - we had the same problem on the Big Cat at the coast. I cleaned up the thick rust areas with a small bronze brush, used WM's metal cleaner on the whole area to get rid of the rest and then applied Wichinox according to the directions (how cute - actually reading directions! ). The Wichinox repacificates the stainless and it solved the problem. Derek
Think the word you are looking for is repassivating. Stainless Steal is passivated by immersing the parts in an acid. Depending on the alloy, there are two different solutions that are used to meet the Mil. Spec. The basic concept is they remove the iron in the alloy from the surface and at the same time form an oxide layer with the remaining chrome and nickel on the surface. This is now considered passivated SS. The stain you see is iron oxide (rust.)
Please understand that Derek is well meaning but he is from the other side of the pond.....he is a great sailer but his <b>English</b> is a bit questionable Steve
My english teacher always told me "the only bad english is when it cannot be understood". IMHO Derek does not have that problem. He has the same problem as most of us who just can't spell big words. Now will someone tell me were to get this Wichinox or will muriatic acid work just as well.
DO NOT USE MURIATIC ACID (a corrosive). It will remove the oxide layer and activate, not passivate the surface. Normally 50% Nitric Acid (an oxidizer) is used. Also do not use steel brushes, steel wool, or even the red scotch bright pads. All will leave iron particles on the surface, which will promote rust. Someone mentioned a brass brush, which is ok. A good job is not a do-it-yourself project, but I would try the Wichinox mentioned.
Frog, I have had easier results, although the problem was not as pronounced, with plain cleaner/wax all in one compound. Keeps the salt water out which is the big enabler in all this.
Soon as the rain quits I intend to do some cleaning on the chainplates and wax until I can get some of the Wichinox from Sailnet.
Oscar, how often do you fly into Jacksonville and how long do you usually stay? I leave for Orlando tomorrow and will return Monday evening. If you are still here or know when your next trip to JAX will be we'll have to get a hold of Ben and Tom and see if we can get together for lunch. Thanks to all for the info, I just don't understand why rust in four months. I did not have rust on my C25 when I sold it and it was 25 years old.
Jerry, a new boat has bedding compound smears and cleanup is part of the commissioning. Its possible something was used to do that such as a brillo pad which would leave iron oxides on the surface which would do what is depicted in your picture.
After its cleaned and waxed, you may find that the problem is solved.
Every sail boat I've ever owned, including three Cape Dorys, have had some amount of rust someplace on the stainless steel. I always just waxed it off and ultimately the surface iron that is rusting is gone and over time it ceases to rust. The swim platform on my present power boat (sorry, but it IS for sale...) was a mass of surface rust for over a year, it no longer rusts.
I think the rust is not something that is a worry, it's cosmetic, clean it periodically and the problem will ultimately cure itself.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.