Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Due to a push rod in the pedestal steering column slipping during a race and causing me to loose control of the steering I decided to install Arlyn Stewart's Upgrade kit.I spent 4 hours Friday removing the aft bulkhead, disconnecting the old single push-pull cable from the rudder arm and cable ties in the stern compartment, & removing the compass and top section of the pedestal. Saturday I spent 2 hours getting the chain assembley out of the pedestal..now that I know how I could have done it in 30 minutes. I brought the Chain assembley home and spent 1.5 hours preparing the chain and attaching the new cables from the kit. This included about 10-15 minutes consulting with Arlyn by phone to make sure I was on track. Today I spent 3 hours installing the chain/cable assembley, reassembling the pedestal parts, installing the rudder arm extension assembley, and installing the main steering assembley and bedding the 3 connecting bolts. Buzz Marring helped me out today since he is interested in improving his steering syatem on his C25. Extra hands and a extra brain are always handy...Thank you Buzz Here are some pics of the progress:
Oh I Forgeot to mention The reason I decided on Arlyn's upgrade instead of the Edson 2 cable upgrade was that I wanted to avoid the weak links in the Edson System: 1. tight curves in the Cable that cause binding in the cable/sheath 2.a 1/4" set screw on the pedestal side of the push/pull rod that can't handle the load. 3. excessive play in the wheel resulting in poor positive response in the helm (especially important in racing). It is already obvious to me that if Arlyn's open cable/sheave system if correctly installed you correct all three of these problems...and it is about $300 cheaper.
OK, I have finished the installation and I will do a seatrial tomorrow (Saturday). It is a great system, You can not feel any friction in the cable system, the wheel spins almost freely. I will post pics and more after the seatrial but I am very happy to have installed Arlyn's system already, I can tell positive response and immediate feedback from the helm just sitting in the slip!..and there is no play at all, Steve
A total conversion to wheel is a fair size project but not technically difficult. <ul><li>Purchase a pedestal, wheel, steering arm and receiver and transom boot from Edson</li><li> Bolt the pedestal to the cockpit floor</li><li>Bolt a rudder arm reciever onto the rudder</li><li>Make cutout and install a boot for running the rudder arm from the receiver thru the transom</li><li>Install cable steering kit</li></ul>
An interesting question would be the cost of the things required from Edson. Bought outside of a total package, the items may be more expensive. Another option might be to search for a used pedestal.
Have to put in my five cents......sail the tiller, get used to it. Go to nationals and see if you can bum a ride on a wheel, and check it out. Not just sailing, but also cockpit comfort etc. Then decide. Personally I wouldn't do it.....
Thanks for the advice. I really like it with the tiller but didn't want to over look the wheel if it proved to be better.
I purchased the boat in Jacksonville last April. I really envy the sailing season there. Those of us in New England just dream of winter sailing.
I have two other questions if I might.
1. I want to install my VHF antenna on the mast before stepping it. Can you give me some guidance on that?
2. Also, I have the stern mast support and need to know the best way to support the mast over the cabin to eliminate the spring in the mast when towing.
I don't think the wheel is any better or any worse when the trade offs are balanced out... except the pain in the back pocket. Its a personal preference issue for which there is no right or wrong because what is right for one may be wrong for the other person. I offer some additional comments to the question at
A vhf antenna depends on some variables which include needed range. A 5/8 wave antenna like a shakespeare mounted to one of the aft stanchions is probably 75% as effiecient as a 1/4 wave ground plane at the mast top while providing a little less attraction to lightning. And.... its a lot easier to route the coax. Mounted on one of the pivot down mounts, it will drop down easily for trailering.
Making a tabernacle crutch is fairly easy to do and can be done out of wood or plastic materiel.
Some of the rear carriers are offset and use another set of gudgeons to mount. If you have the offset carrier, the mid ship support will need to be a two piece affair to obtain some offset as well. A 4X4 with a hole drilled through it for the mast bolt at the upper extremity of the slots will work fine. The top can be band sawed into a U shaped cradle. If the offset is needed, then another piece may need screwed to the side.
Last summer I mounted the antenna on the side of the mast, just below the boom, with a large hose clamp and ran the coax through the cabin roof. It almost sounds like that is a good spot since it is out of the way and higher than it would be on the rail.
My rear mast carrier is from Catalina and uses the tiller gudgeons so it is center mounted. The 4 x 4 is a great idea.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.