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 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 General Sailing Forum
 Removing Bolts/ Screws
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frich
Captain

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USA
418 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/12/2003 :  12:57:56  Show Profile  Visit frich's Homepage
Got Irish Ayes home yesterday all went well. My first winter project is to replace my mast tabernackle with on from CD that alllows me to install blocks at the base.

My concern is removing the (4) phillips head screws that i believe secure this. When I tried to remove the ones holding my lifeline stanchions, they wouldnt move at all. The PO might have sealed these in.

Anyone have any ideas to insure no problems?


Frank R
84 C25 SK


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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 10/12/2003 :  13:44:45  Show Profile
Mine are machine screws with nuts and washers inside. I had a friend hold each one with a philips screwdriver from above while I turned the nuts down below. A little WD40 might help the nuts to turn a little easier. Same with the stanchions.

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 10/12/2003 13:45:31

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svmoxie
Past Commodore

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USA
331 Posts

Response Posted - 10/12/2003 :  14:57:12  Show Profile  Visit svmoxie's Homepage
My '81 had screws holding the mast step in place. Since there is no shear force here screws are sufficient. The PO might have changed those to bolts, just look inside around the head / v berth to see.

The life line stanchions are machine screws (bolts) with washers and nuts. You can access all of these from inside but it is a two person job. The aft port side is inside the lazarette, those were a lot of fun!

Good luck.


Clif Thompson
Treasurer C-25/250 National Association.
svMoxie '81 25 sk

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 10/12/2003 :  20:59:10  Show Profile  Visit Leon Sisson's Homepage
Frank,

In addition to what the others have already offered, you might consider using a little heat. Carefully. If the fasteners are stuck because of adheasive or sealant, try to determine what adheasive or sealant was used. Then do a little research to determine if the suspected goo would relax its grip if heated. Be very carefull not to damage the fiberglass! My heat source of choice would be a large, hot soldering iron pressed firmly but briefly against the head of the bolt. If you start to smell fiberglass resin, it's time to back off. Another possibility would be a fine tip torch, with the surrounding area protected by soaking wet rags.

Having said all that, I've had no particular difficulty removing any of the deck hardware fasteners on my 1979 C-25.

I urge patience and caution in any situation where breaking stuck fasteners is a likely possibility. Go slow, and good luck!

-- Leon Sisson



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jwilliams
Captain

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USA
357 Posts

Response Posted - 10/13/2003 :  14:47:57  Show Profile
Hi all,

General: On installing SS screws into aluminum.

Get yourself a little tube of NeverSeize. It is a kind of grease with copper and graphite. Your screws will go in easy and come out...yeah, come out. You know what I mean if you have ever tried to remove a SS screw from aluminum.

Jim Williams
Hey Jude C25fk 2958
Half Moon Bay, CA


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Sid
Navigator

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129 Posts

Response Posted - 10/15/2003 :  11:14:08  Show Profile
On a similar note, I have seized turnbuckles(original closed body SS) that refused to turn. I want to replace them with open body TBs. I've tried WD-40 and 769 penetrating lube with no luck. Any ideas on how to loosen them without damaging the swaged shroud fittings?
Sid

77 C25 SK #21

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svmoxie
Past Commodore

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USA
331 Posts

Response Posted - 10/15/2003 :  11:30:51  Show Profile  Visit svmoxie's Homepage
Sid,

I am a big fan of "PB Blaster" penetrating lube. Find some at your local car parts store and spray it above the turnbuckle and in the hole of the turnbuckle body. Let it sit overnight and then apply some heat to the turnbuckle with a hot air gun or a propane torch. That has always worked for me even with damaged threads.

When you are replacing with the new turnbuckles get a tub of lanolin to coat the threads before you assemble and next time they will come off easily. Forespar makes it in a spray, tube or tub, called Lanocote.

Good luck!

<img src="http://www.berkeleypoint.com/products/install/images/lanocote_a.jpg" border=0>

Clif Thompson
Treasurer C-25/250 National Association.
svMoxie '81 25 sk

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Sid
Navigator

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129 Posts

Response Posted - 10/15/2003 :  14:48:59  Show Profile
Clif,
Thanks. I'll see if I can find the PB blaster at the local shop and give it a shot.
Sid

77 C25 SK #21

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