Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'm considering a propane conversion to one of my curtain burners and in the posts explaing the proceedure the scout century stove was identified as the unit used. However where they may be bought wasn't mentioned. Any Ideas.
I bought a Century propane just to use, not to convert an alcholol stove, and I don't know if it is a Scout or not. I got mine at a store called Gander Mountain. I think it was around $40.00
Dick's Sporting Goods or Sports Authority sometimes have them; or, you can order one from Campmor (www.Campmor.com), which is an excellent source for discount camping gear, etc.
Thanks Earl, that's the magilla. In the interim waiting for info on the stove I did some more fiddiling on the new princess and made some interesting discoveries. Finally found out how to set-up the stove properly. Nothing really brainy just dogged persistance wore down the mystery of the Princess.
I dunno Ken, mebbe that's why da coasties say ya need em. Got me two, one on either side of the stove<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> Val on Calista # 3936
It seems the source of the princess' problems stem from folks flittering about with the jet atop the burner. A fellow would get away with cleaning the jet but if they should turn the nob while doing so look out you might have created a serious curtain burner. I just bought a second princess and it was a MACK 5 curtain burner, the adjustment was so far off that the fuel flow was shut off in the oposite direction , counterclockwise rather than clockwise.
I'll not go into the proper setup here kinda long and while it worked for me it might not for others.
I keep an old spray bottle (ala Windex bottle) full of water near the stove. Water puts out small alcohol fires instantly and won't make a mess.
Of course, if other things catch fire, you'd better have the fire extinguisher handy.
Common sense/IMHO follows..
NEVER position yourself so that a fire is between you and the exit.
Your primary fire extinguisher should be by the companionway and you should fight the fire with your back toward your primary escape route.
If you're prudent (or paranoid) keep a smaller extinguisher up in the head compartment. Also, your battery disconnect should be close to your 'exit route' (most boat fires are electrical in origin).
If you can't get the fire out quickly, get out... fiberglass burns rapidly and produces toxic fumes. You can always replace the boat.
If you overnight on the boat, you should have a smoke detector and (prudently) a CO detector too. Some folks were killed in a boat fire down in SF bay awhile back.. they slept through the early stages of the fire and the CO produced asphixiated them in their sleep.
I'm a big believer in CO detectors... having one saved my house and probably my father's life along with it. Slow, smouldering fires will produce lots of CO before the regular smoke detectors will fire off.
Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family, '78 Catalina 25
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.