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 Coaming teak trim restoration?		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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slim
Navigator

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USA
113 Posts
Initially Posted - 02/29/2016 :  12:57:40  Show Profile
Coaming teak trim removed and as you can see from the photos not a lot of material left to work with. I know that CD has plastic coaming replacements but i would really like to restore the original teak ones if i can. Has anyone got an idea of what would be the best way of doing this? I have not been able to find teak replacements for them and even if i did the cost would probably be prohibitive for me so it will have to be a DIY if it gets done.

Thanks Slim
1978 - C25 - standard rig - Fixed keel #1040

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4013 Posts
Response Posted - 02/29/2016 :  16:40:28  Show Profile
If you definitely want to use those I don't think you have much choice other than gluing the pieces back together, Stripping the old finish, Sanding smooth and re-coating with what ever is your preference. I would run a bead of caulk or a bedding material around the back side before mounting them back in the boxes just to give them some extra support. I think you will be surprised at how well they will look.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound


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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts
Response Posted - 02/29/2016 :  18:03:04  Show Profile
Agreed, gluing it back together and sanding is your only option. Gluing teak can be challenging. Clean surfaces are a must, and I wipe down with acetone to remove surface oil on the surfaces to be glued. Your best bet might be thickened epoxy so you can fill gaps when its ready to glue.

Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle
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dasreboot
Admiral

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803 Posts
Response Posted - 03/01/2016 :  05:47:19  Show Profile  Visit dasreboot's Homepage
If it doesnt work out and you decide to do in plastic, perhaps you can send me the good one instead of throwing it away. I might be able to make a jig to recreate it.
Todd Lewis
Eowyn 87 TR/WK C25 #5656
ARWEN 84 TR/SK C25 #4031
www.mainsailsailingschool.com
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JamesBird
1st Mate

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USA
68 Posts
Response Posted - 03/01/2016 :  08:27:40  Show Profile
I have had excellent results with repairing teak moldings using superglue. You must be careful not to get it on anywhere you intend to use a finishing product as it won't stick. As suggested above, clean the area first with acetone for a good bond.
Jim
Danvers, MA
79 Cat25/SR/SK/(1185)
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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9058 Posts
Response Posted - 03/01/2016 :  09:07:11  Show Profile
There's an alternative to white plastic: PlasTeak makes custom trim pieces from teak-like HDPE. Here's a web page on it. Note the picture of the coaming compartment trim (before and after).



They might have a pattern for Catalina's standard rings. I have no idea of what they would charge, but they also sell the basic "lumber" that you might be able to use to craft them yourself.
Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
Edited by - Stinkpotter on 03/01/2016 09:10:02
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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4013 Posts
Response Posted - 03/01/2016 :  14:25:11  Show Profile
Yep, Thickened epoxy or an exterior grade wood glue
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound


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JanS48
Navigator

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USA
144 Posts
Response Posted - 03/01/2016 :  18:09:58  Show Profile
Greetings all
Has anyone actually used the PlasTeak that Dave's post had the link to? Looks like the way to go if you cannot get the real thing.
I'm sure it's pricy - anyone know how much so?
82 C25 SR FK
Sailing out of Newport Harbor.
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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9058 Posts
Response Posted - 03/01/2016 :  18:15:19  Show Profile
Why thicken the epoxy? Wouldn't that make it harder to compress the pieces to the original shape without squeezing epoxy out of the cracks? I was even thinking of penetrating epoxy (very thin) applied to both surfaces being joined, and then clamping the pieces together. That would be more like James's Super Glue but slower setting, a little more forgiving for aligning after contact, and possibly more weather-resistant.
Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
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Bladeswell
Captain

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USA
490 Posts
Response Posted - 03/01/2016 :  21:27:01  Show Profile  Visit Bladeswell's Homepage
Hi Again Slim,

You seem to be a fairly handy guy. So I'm wondering why you just don't make some new ones ? I know you're good with fiberglass. Are you not comfortable with wood work ? You would need a jig saw/sabre saw or a band saw and a router. You have one good one for a pattern. Some clamps and the right glue and you would be good to go. Best of luck. I will tell you the exact procedure if you wish.

Bladeswell
C25 TR FK Hull #973 1979 L-Dinette. So.Cal.
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hewebb
Admiral

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USA
761 Posts
Response Posted - 03/02/2016 :  06:22:23  Show Profile
When I removed mine to refinish that happened to me. I used waterproof wood glue and in some areas some wood filler for the big cracks. I made the filler with teak sawdust and epoxy. I did not take any photographs. It was a challenge to get then staged to clamp and glue. Good luck
1988 WK/SR w/inboard diesel Joe Pool Lake
Hobie 18 Lake Worth



Life is not a dress rehearsal. You will not get another chance.
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glivs
Admiral

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USA
836 Posts
Response Posted - 03/02/2016 :  08:06:35  Show Profile
Ditto...I did essentially the same thing using exterior Gorilla glue after wiping the teak down the best I could with acetone. A light application of Cetol every couple of years and they've held up nearly 10 years.
Gerry Livingston, Malletts Bay, VT
"Great Escape" 1989 C-25 SR/WK #5972
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slim
Navigator

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USA
113 Posts
Response Posted - 03/03/2016 :  11:10:45  Show Profile
Well here is the latest from my tailgate boat shop. I decided to re glue and then strengthened with fiberglass on the back side. In some spots the wood is so thin it is more like a venire, so with the fiberglass on the back side it should give it enough strength to not fall apart and if i am real gentle with the use of them i think i will be able to just glue back in place and oil. We will see.
1978 - C25 - standard rig - Fixed keel #1040
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hewebb
Admiral

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USA
761 Posts
Response Posted - 03/04/2016 :  05:01:08  Show Profile
Fiberglass on the back is a great idea. I suspect that mine will fall apart again if in the future someone removes them.
1988 WK/SR w/inboard diesel Joe Pool Lake
Hobie 18 Lake Worth



Life is not a dress rehearsal. You will not get another chance.
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slim
Navigator

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USA
113 Posts
Response Posted - 03/04/2016 :  12:41:11  Show Profile
The finished product is good! I think it is stronger than the original so that makes me feel good also. Going to use adhesive to attach back in the cockpit rather than the screws that were used before.
1978 - C25 - standard rig - Fixed keel #1040
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Bladeswell
Captain

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USA
490 Posts
Response Posted - 03/04/2016 :  19:49:19  Show Profile  Visit Bladeswell's Homepage
Hi Again Slim,

Those look great and I think the fiberglass on the back was a good idea. That's just about exactly what my interior ports trim rings will look like. However, I will have to make them from scratch. Wish me luck. Great work.

Bladeswell
C25 TR FK Hull #973 1979 L-Dinette. So.Cal.
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Akenumber
Navigator

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USA
247 Posts
Response Posted - 03/09/2016 :  18:57:46  Show Profile
I purchased new teak trim from CD about two years ago. Surprisingly cost affective.. maybe they ran out?
Ken
San Diego
84 C25 SR/FK 4116
The KRAKEN
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pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts
Response Posted - 03/10/2016 :  15:11:10  Show Profile
CD often has local craftsmen do things... they die.
Frank Hopper
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