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rebedding teak

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rdthoms
Deckhand

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USA
15 Posts

Initially Posted - 12/08/2015 : 15:17:54

I've pulled all my teak off for refinishing. It appears to have been last bedded with silicone. I'm now carefully cleaning all the silicone off of the wood and boat. I'd rather avoid silicone going back. What is the best to use? I think I'm down to butyl tape (from Maine Sail) or Life Caulk.

From my understanding the butyl is the best for resilience but has no adhesive properties. The life caulk has more adhesive but not as resilient.

Any experience or suggestions?

Richard
Huntsville, AL
1984 Catalina 25 SR/FK #4309

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 12/08/2015 : 20:37:00

I used Buytl tape (not from MaineSail) and I've had zero leaks. I never considered the adhesive aspect as the screws provide the necessary holding power - IMHO

I made a hole in the tape using a plastic straw - then applied the tape to the bottom of each foot.

Good luck!

1989 C25 TR/WK, #5822
1973 McVay Minuet 19
1975 Jester 12
1981 C25 SR/SK, #2428
1981 C22 SR/SK,
Tanzer 16
Sunfish

"There is nothing, absolutely nothing half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." Kenneth Grahame

sfsmith
Navigator

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USA
123 Posts

Response Posted - 12/09/2015 : 07:06:09

I agree with OJ's post. Butyl tape is easy to work with and stays pliable for a long time. But don't make the same mistake I did a few years ago and try to use the black automotive windshield butyl tape. It's incredibly sticky and impossible to clean up. The gray kind is infinitely better for marine use.

Solomon Smith
TANGO 89/WK/TR/#5942
Petoskey, Michigan

rdthoms
Deckhand

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USA
15 Posts

Response Posted - 12/10/2015 : 13:27:39

I've got the butyl and may just stick with that. Not that it matters because I sail on an inland lake but I got to thinking that if the stuff hit the fan it might be nice that the sliding hatch rails and the cribboard rails were stuck to the boat just a little better than the 8 or so rather smallish wood screws. If I get scientific about it maybe I'll do a left/right A/B test!

Richard
Huntsville, AL
1984 Catalina 25 SR/FK #4309

Akenumber
Navigator

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USA
247 Posts

Response Posted - 12/11/2015 : 06:56:24

I just did the same job with butyl about 7 months ago. Pretty happy with the results. I found after the initial trimming it seemed to ooze out for a few months. I would recommend leaving it alone for a while instead of trimming it every other week. Anyone else dealt with this?

Ken
San Diego
84 C25 SR/FK 4116
The KRAKEN

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9076 Posts

Response Posted - 12/11/2015 : 08:33:09

Forget the adhesion--the screws are what hold the wood. If you want more, you'd need 3M 5200 (polyurethane). My boat builder used it to bed my teak handrails--to I remove them, I ended up losing some gelcoat. Thanks a lot.

I use Life Caulk (polysulfide)--it sets up firmly and can be trimmed, but remains flexible and is easily removed. For plastic hardware, I use Life Seal.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 12/11/2015 : 10:54:45

There is no question that polysulfide is the gold standard. It has modest adhesion, bedding rather than gluing, making it easily removable. It is a little messy and slow setting, but you only need to do it every 15-20, even 30, years. Butyl tape is easy and clean, but isn't as durable as polysulfide. Butyl is really a very viscous fluid, fluidity varying with different formulations, and will slowly ooze, especially with movement. More viscous lasts longer but conforms less, that is why selection for properties is important. Polysulfide cures to a perfectly conformed, firm, synthetic rubber gasket. A leak in the future usually responds to a quarter turn with a screwdriver. They both work, you just pick the tradeoff. I did mine with polysulfide and will be dead by the time it needs it again.

Dave B. aboard Pearl
1982 TR/SK/Trad. #3399
Lake Erie/Florida Panhandle

Bladeswell
Captain

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USA
490 Posts

Response Posted - 01/06/2016 : 09:41:06

Hello All,

Butyl tape has been used a lot in the past and for some applications still is. 3M 5200 is intended for use on, (permanent) installations. 3M 4200 is intended for use on things that you expect to have to replace or remove on occasion. If I remember right, you can sort of think of Boat Life, Life Caulk and Boat Life, Life Seal the same way, respectively.
I agree with Stinkpotter. And when I get around to rebedding mine, I will be using Boat Life, Life Caulk.

Bladeswell

C25 TR FK Hull #973 1979 L-Dinette. So.Cal.

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9076 Posts

Response Posted - 01/06/2016 : 09:53:21

In my experience, Life Seal has about the same properties as Life Caulk, except Life Seal is recommended with plastic hardware while Life Caulk is not. Life Seal is some sort of composite--partially silicone I think, but it doesn't seem to have the bad characteristics of silicone (e.g. UV degradation and difficulty of removing it entirely).

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 01/06/2016 09:55:07

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.