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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have a 1984 C25 with I guess the standard electrical panel with Master, Cabin, Nav, Steaming, Anchor, I think. Anyway all switches are used.
I'm adding a radio/cd player, 12V accessory adapter (cigarette adapter/USB adapter), a lighted compass, and a depth meter.
So my question is should I add a DC electrical panel for these items or wire them to be hot when the "master" switch is on? What makes you decide when to give something it's own circuit/switch or not?
FWIW the VHF radio seems to be wired directly to the battery and will power up even when the master switch is OFF.
Richard Huntsville, AL 1984 Catalina 25 SR/FK #4309
If you are going to add a 12v accessory adapter, you might want to select one on a small panel that has a few additional switch circuits for optimum flexibility. The radio/cd player and depth meter should have their own inline fuse, so they could be wired "hot" to be turned on/off by the master. I had an 84 boat also. Are you sure that there is no Acc swirch on the original panel?
DavidP 1975 C-22 SK #5459 "Shadowfax" Fleet 52 PO of 1984 C-25 SK/TR #4142 "Recess" Percy Priest Yacht Club, Hamilton Creek Marina, Nashville, TN
All depends on how much you want to spend. The cheapest way is to wire each acc. to the existing panel with an inline fuse for each acc. Not the neatest solution. Next up will be to get another panel to sister to the existing panel via jumper wires from the 'service' switch. Throw the service switch and both panels are powered up. This will give you dedicated circuits for each acc. that you want to add or add in the future. You also will have a fuse for each and be able to turn on and off each acc. as needed. Much neater and is what I did. Next would be to get a totally new but more expensive panel and remove the existing panel all together.This panel can have all the bells and whistles and is only limited as to what your willing to spend.
My sistered panel
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
quote:FWIW the VHF radio seems to be wired directly to the battery and will power up even when the master switch is OFF.
Do you have a battery switch similar to these?
Using a switch like these should disconnect the battery or batteries from all devices including the VHF radio.
The PO of my C25 added two simple "push/pull" switches for a depth sounder and a VHF. They were wired to the "service" switch on the panel. I later used those switches to power the VHF and the AM/FM/CD player and the other to power the GPS/depth sounder. All of the extra 12v plugs I added to the boat were wired to the "accessory" switch on the main panel.
Davy J
2005 Gemini 105Mc PO 1987 C25 #5509 SR/SK Tampa Bay
Thanks for the inputs. I don't recall if I have an "accessory" switch on the panel but I think all my switches are in use. I don't have a ON/OFF battery switch and I'm thinking about getting one if I go to a dual battery setup.
Seems I've got enough components and probably future components to warrant adding another switch panel. Then I can run a circuit for "instruments" which will have the compass light and depth meter (and hopefully future GPS and/or speed meter) on that circuit. I can wire both the audio radio and VHF radio into separate circuits/switches. And also add a circuit for one or more 12V accessory adapters. That's four circuits right there so a six switch panel should work nicely with room for expansion. I'll make sure the second panel is only powered when the first panel "master" is on.
Richard Huntsville, AL 1984 Catalina 25 SR/FK #4309
I took the easy way. I added three switches on the side of the sink cabinet between the stairs and the fiberglass. 1 for Electric bilge pump, 1 for the power plug in the coaming box and one for the auto tiller. I also added one on the front of the cabinet below the sink with an indicator light for the water pump. All are powered from a buss bar I added to battery #2 and are fused with in-line fuses at the buss bar. The down side of this is they are powered up even though the battery switch is off. If I was small enough to get into the lazaret behind the panel I may have gone with a new larger panel with circuit breakers.
1988 WK/SR w/inboard diesel Joe Pool Lake Hobie 18 Lake Worth
Life is not a dress rehearsal. You will not get another chance.
The storms were about 70 miles from where we live. We have been very lucky as none of the bad weather comes near the area where we live in Southern Tarrant County between Mansfield & Burleson.
1988 WK/SR w/inboard diesel Joe Pool Lake Hobie 18 Lake Worth
Life is not a dress rehearsal. You will not get another chance.
...We have been very lucky as none of the bad weather comes near the area where we live in Southern Tarrant County between Mansfield & Burleson.
...so you post this on the World Wide Web?! Famous last words...
Dave Bristle Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired), Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge
On my 84 I have an accessory switch. I keep it isolated to the vhf and instrument gauges. Everything else is fused in the battery compartment. Out of convenience. If I install any more electrical components I will be adding an additional panel. The battery compartment is getting a little crowded and nothing is labeled. It could be an issue at probably the worst time.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.