Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Fender washers should be plenty of backing--the forces are essentially parallel to the deck. The over-drill/re-drill technique is excellent for protecting the plywood core from water intrusion. Another protection is bedding with the appropriate caulk, finger tightening, letting the caulk set up, and then tightening a little further while holding the bolt from turning.
I like Life Caulk (polysulfide) for most purposes, but it isn't compatible with plastics. For hardware with a plastic base, I use Life Seal.
<< I can't imagine there would be much difference in the headliner thickness from boat to boat. >>
The liner and the deck come in at a different angle leaving a different gap between the two at different points. I started with one length on the outer screws, and another on the inner screws. I ended up cutting them all ( and going with really long screws. )
ANd I also found the instructions on the clutch box saying no polysulfide.. ( just before I installed mine )
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> For hardware with a plastic base, I use Life Seal.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Thank you Dave for reminding me about this. They do have plastic bases. Life Seal it is. Ray, Thanks for the photo. Now I can see a cross section of the area and the approximate thickness of the deck.
<<Now I can see a cross section of the area and the approximate thickness of the deck. >>
The section pictured was from the hole I cut out port of the mast for a solar vent.
I was frustrated with the screw lengths when I added my winches as they varied from the inner holes to the outer holes so I'm thinking the deck angle and the liner angle vary even more at that location. It drove me crazy, ended up getting long screws and cutting them.
Also encountered resin flowing away from the screw holes into the gap ( As best I remember Lee Panza commented on this also ) in that area so I'm thinking the gap between the liner and the deck is even greater there.
I had to wait for the resin to thicken some as I continued to add it from a syringe. About 30 minutes for the Gflex to start kicking in 75 degree temps. Felt like I had better try to fill the gap even more to keep the winch sealed to the deck.
Hate sounding like it is such a job to add a clutch, but better to let you know what I experienced.
Anyhoo... take some pictures so you can tell the tale to the next lucky duck that adds one, tell us how smoooth the job went.
When I got my boat the first thing I said was I was gonna add clutches/winches... So they said I needed a mast plate at the bottom of the mast, and as long as I was dropping the mast I might as well rewire the mast, and as long as I was rewiring the mast I might as well rewire the panel.. and ...
So yepper.. glad to have the winches done. ( as all they do is hang the life preservers )
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.