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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
So I'm going to be installing 2 double XAS 612/2 Powerclutches on the cabin top but I'm not to sure about the placement. I have two cabin top winches but I'm not sure how far forward of the winches or aft end of the cabin top they should be. Is the cabin top fully cored in the placement area or are there voids that I don't want to drill into. If anybody could take a few measurements I would be very grateful.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
my cabin winches are about 3"-4" from the bulkhead and the clutches are about 12" from the winches, slightly offset to allow the line that needs a more powerful pull (halyards) to be in straight line to the winch and the lesser powerful line can have a slight angle to the winch, it's important to check on which side of the winch the line comes in before drilling!
Mine are about 6" forward of the cabin top winches. Also, lined up with the proper side (Starboard side) of the winch. I centered between both lines from clutches to side of winch.
I'd suggest moving them about 2-3" farther forward (a little more distance between the winch and clutch) to get better alignment for the farthest outboard line. On that boat we ended up using the inboard position for jib halyard, middle position for main halyard, outboard for the asym spinnaker tack line.
I'd also suggest getting the Lewmar D1 instead of the Spinlock XAS if you haven't already bought a clutch. It is easier on lines, releases better under load, and is a little bit cheaper. The clutch in that photo is a XAS, but I used Lewmar D1 clutches on my new boat and prefer them.
Alex hits on the issue, put them far enough forward so there is a fairlead to the starboard side of the winch for all lines that need the winch. XAS is my favorite clutch, make sure you get the right size for your line, the 6mm-12mm is large if you will use any 1/4" high-tech line with a hard cover, they will slip in a 6-12 since 1/4" is the smallest line spec-ed. I found 4-8 a better size for my line selections.
Yes, with any clutch you do need to get the right size for your line size. The clutch manufacturer should have a nice diagram like this one that shows the holding by line size by clutch model:
<< that seems like an expensive "hook" for throw cushions. >>
The winches are for my halyards, and to use pulling someone up the mast, with the safety addition of the clutch.
The "Throw Cushions" are USCG required live preservers and need to be in one place, the same place, and easily located. In a man over board situation you want to find them and find them fast. This keeps them up top and ready.
I want to thank everyone for their input on the placement of the clutches. The photos really help. I learned lots from them. Also about lining them up to feed the line to the winches. The clutches should really help in line management verses trying to cleat multiple lines to those small cleats. Thanks everyone! Don't you just love new toys!
There are voids in the cabin top, I drilled the holes after a careful layout, then taped the undersides and filled the holes with thickened epoxy and re-drilled. This might be over kill but if you tighten the machine screws to much the cabin top will 'crunch'. It may be enough to just snug the screws down. I used 1/4" line. This is one of those improvements that is well worth the effort.
Voids are one of the things I was wondering about, Also should the clutches be through bolted or can you screw them down. I would prefer to screw them down only for the reason that the screws wouldn't penetrate into the cabin like bolts would. Less head scratchers to cause injuries.If they positively need to be bolted then that is what they shall be.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by islander</i> <br />...I would prefer to screw them down only for the reason that the screws wouldn't penetrate into the cabin like bolts would. Less head scratchers to cause injuries... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
They do less damage to one's scalp (trust me - I've had opportunities to verify this). I've forgotten what length screws I used, but they projected out just enough for the cap nuts to cinch-down tight to the coach roof with single washers under them. Using wood screws would probably be a mistake; there can be a LOT of load on the fasteners and not a lot of purchase in the coach roof.
Just what I was thinking, PIA to get the length of the bolts just right. I guess the best route is to just get long bolts and cut them to length. Saves me the multiple trips to WM.
Make sure you have a standard nut tightened to the washer. That nut will clean and align the cut threads as you back it off so you can put the acorn on.
yepper ( long screws and cut ) and you might end up using the long screw to clamp on a small channellock pliers on the end of the screw to get the first nut tight and then cut the screw, especially in a place where you can't get to the topside and you are working alone. Then cutting off the part where you mangled the threads.
Also helps when you are using nuts with nylon lockwashers in them.
I fell in love with these things called barrel nuts. This is a picture of them holding my cabin top winch, but I used them on the XAS triple clutches I installed as well.
With our low head room this really eliminates all dings. Getting the bolt size right is important, but these have deeper barrels than a cap nut (acorn nut) so you have more wiggle room. I didn't have to cut bolts at all. I did, however, mount the parts temporarily, measure the length and then go order the right size. Sorry I couldn't tell you the length, never made a note. These are a little trickier to install as you need to drill a counter bore from below to accommodate the barrel of the nut. I suppose you could just drill a larger hole all the way through, but I didn't like the idea of having a lot of play in the holes around the screw shank.
although there are lots of places that sell them. It's also nice that they have a really large diameter head with teeth underneath. This means no need for a lock washer or flat washer.
On another note, I grabbed a couple of zinc plated and galvanized open barrel nuts that are used for press-board furniture and put them on the shelf in the cabin of the boat just to see if they would be prone to corrosion. They are available at most hardware stores and are much cheaper. After a few years (fresh water environment) none show any signs of corrosion. The nice thing about them is #1) They are open on the bottom so no risk of crevice corrosion #2) They could be installed totally flush with the ceiling
The Barrel nuts do make a clean professional look but <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> Sorry I couldn't tell you the length<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> The most important part.
The next time I am up at the boat I will unscrew one and check the length. I also have the XAS clutches so it should be applicable. I can't imagine there would be much difference in the headliner thickness from boat to boat.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.