Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Having a custom made bimini built locally and the vendor is asking for pictures - for general reference. If anyone can post pix of their deployed C25 bimini here - I can forward the link to this post. Comments and experiences also welcome. Thanks in advance!
I uploaded some other shots to my '89 album here in the association photo galleries. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
The height you see here is based on the mainsheet getting around the corner of the bimini. I felt it caused a problem to have the bimini any higher.
I just posted some photos to this album that show our bimini setup to a degree.
The PO had poles mounted outside the cockpit coamings (on the same level as the aft mooring cleats) to support the bimini. The bimini cover is above the boom. It extends from just abaft the mainsail and topping lift and extends past the backstay nearly to the aft stern rail. There is a cut out in the cover to allow the backstay to pass through.
It is closed up, not extended, in the photos (and the canvas is in need of repair).
The mainsheet swing is indeed the most important limiting factor (after the boom). The next issue is where you want to mount it--I put it outside and just forward of the "winch island" part of the cockpit coaming.
I also used telescoping struts in place of straps on the aft legs, and mounted them to the stern rail. That allowed me to fold the bimini back and keep it relatively high above the cockpit. You can see the struts here:
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by sethp001</i> <br />...The bimini cover is above the boom. It extends from just abaft the mainsail and topping lift and extends past the backstay nearly to the aft stern rail. There is a cut out in the cover to allow the backstay to pass through.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">That sounds like a cockpit awning, not a bimini (which can be used when sailing).
As many of you know, the genoa tracks on the '89 were moved inward, so I may use CD's track cars. Maybe Frank will read this and explain why he chose to mount his where he did.
I can't warm up to what CD offers. Their presentation falls short for me. Locally, I can select any color of Sunbrella I want + the stainless tubes will be one piece as opposed to split port and starboard.
Since the local canvas maker doesn't do field work, he suggested I make a mock-up frame out of PVC tubing.
Like most boat projects, 90% (or more) of the work is planning!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Stinkpotter</i> <br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by sethp001</i> <br />...The bimini cover is above the boom. It extends from just abaft the mainsail and topping lift and extends past the backstay nearly to the aft stern rail. There is a cut out in the cover to allow the backstay to pass through.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">That sounds like a cockpit awning, not a bimini (which can be used when sailing). <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
If that is a defining characteristic, then is in fact a bimini. We use it while sailing and it does not interfere with the boom, mainsheet, topping lift or mainsail. It may not appear that way in the photos because the boom is being held up by the pigtail on the backstay.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by OJ</i> <br />Since the local canvas maker doesn't do field work,...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> That's what "local canvas makers" <i>do</i>. They make dodgers, enclosures, etc., by doing mock-ups on the boat. I was beginning to wonder about a "canvas maker" that needed a mock-up for a bimini--now I <i>really</i> wonder. All he should need is a few measurements for height and length--the rest is generic (unless you're going for the windscreen and side curtains that can make it into a dodger). It might be hard to reproduce the arch and curves of a stainless frame with PVC. I got a split arch stainless frame with my custom-color Sunbrella bimini from Canada--I saw no disadvantage with it. The frame is probably stronger at the split than everywhere else. "Voyager" Bruce Ross can comment on how (or whether) it's held up.
My wife has operated our canvas shop for more than 20 years, and I second what Dave said. In fact, if the local shop really wants you to mock one from PVC- RUN DON’T WALK AWAY. The truth of it is you can get a good quality bimini mail order (you can also get C##P), but custom is custom, and quality custom will always include the fabricator meeting you at the boat. As you look at the archived information and I strongly suggest you do, you will see that there is a plethora of different configurations with the custom approach. Now let me regress if you take a length of PVC one 90 degree fitting with about an 8” piece connected to it (like the letter “L”), you can have someone hold it in the location you would like your deck hinge installed. This will give YOU a better visual of what you are designing. Knowing what you want before you buy is important. A decent shop should have a set of adjustable poles. We spend about an hour with the customer finding out what he & she wants, it’s called customer service. Again there are many nice mail order biminis, but here are some things to consider
Stainless costs more, but honest to God it HAS saved someone’s life. (The owner was trying to see how high the topping lift could raise the boom on his 34 footer. I guess it hauled it quit away up before it failed. His wife was sitting right where you might guess, and looked up to watch the boom bounce off the aft frame about 4 times. They were grateful the frame was there and were ready to order a replacement bow, but after inspecting it, there wasn’t even a scratch on it. Stainless is strong and no matter what you think YOU WILL BE GRABBING IT at some time to support yourself.
If you plan to have curtains the forward one should be relatively straight up. The optics decrease as the angle increases. Also Pressed Polished has better optics than rolled, but it costs more
Think about the height, many want to look over the top, while some want more headroom under.
It does not have to fold up (at least not symmetrically). Many plan to leave it up all season, and if it doesn’t have to fold up with all the bows lining up with each other, the fabricator has more flexibility with his design.
Zippers on the pockets will allow you to remove the top fabric at the end of the season without dissembling the frame (A real pain)
Riveting stainless frame components will hold them more securely than set screws
Anchor bars vs. straps (anchor bars are much more secure)
Where will you be getting on and off, make sure it’s not too far aft and in your way
How much coverage do you want over the hatch? Think about rainy days aboard
Clearance for the winch handle.
If you do install your own, be sure to counter sink the gel coat for all screws. This prevents chipping out the gel.
Sorry this has been so longwinded, but it’s a big investment. You need to consider all options carefully.
As always, I am very appreciative of all the advice that is offered on my projects. Apparently this vendor is used to customers bringing their fishing and pontoon boats to his facility . . . and yeah I'm not crazy about building my own mock-up. Perhaps I need to contact some of the local yacht clubs for a referral.
Because of the adundance of rivers in Pittsburgh it appears that canvas makers are used to customers bringing their boats to them. After making several inquiries, I located (hands down) the top canvas maker in the area and, yep, you bring your boat to them.
I've been nosing around this site and I really like the idea of attaching the bimini the genoa track. No new holes in the deck and adjustable fore and aft.
Commenting on Dave Stinkpotter's post, the bimini is nearly ideal. It's going strong and the stainless construction is very strong and flexible. I have had occasion to grab onto it to balance myself. The aft struts allow you to collapse it rearward but prevent it from lying over the gunwales. The only disadvantages are minor: 1. Set-screws do back out on their own, so a bit of Lock-tight has helped. Rivets would be slightly better. 2. Late afternoon (3 hrs before sunset) the sun peeks under the bimini when sailing to easterly, so an aft drape attachment would improve things. I could add a Velcro strip or two but prefer not to modify it. I have a large beach towel I can drape over and tie it in place now. 3. It's nearly impossible to see the main or windex without craining your neck. I've added tell-tails to the shrouds to assist. I'd say anywhere the sun shines more than 47% of the time with temps above 83F you can't live without one. It transforms your quality of boating experience. Alternatives are klugy: I've seen boats with clip-on umbrellas and tarps, but they seem mostly to be in the way...
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.