Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
My boat had no opening to run the wire from the outboard to the battery. I drilled a hole and covered with a clam shell fitting. It works but each time I remove the motor I have to remove the fitting to pull the wire out.
How often do you have to remove your outboard? I've got mine connected through a clam fitting as well. Plus the cables to my external controls. I've never had to remove either (yet).
There are heavy duty connectors made for trolling motors that'd probably work. I've considered doing this, but so far haven't felt the need.
I have mine routed through a hole with a clamshell fitting as well. Haven't taken the engine off in the four years I've had it so the clam shell has never been an issue. If I was taking it off regularly I would get one of those Marinco trolling plugs as David mentioned. I use one for attaching the power to my tiller pilot and the twist-lock feature is just what's needed.
I have a clamshell on the starboard coaming. I remove the outboard every winter and store it inside. I just loosen the clamshell to get the wire out. It takes about 15 seconds. The time it takes you to install a trolling plug will add up to about 50 years of clamshell removals.
Since I got the boat, I have also routed wires for a 12v adapter and a cockpit mic through the same clamshell. I have bulkhead mounts for both of those, but I don't like putting holes in the boat, so I continue to fish those wires through the clamshell while I eternally procrastinate on cutting holes in the fiberglass. Meanwhile, I have one hole for three wires instead of three holes for three wires. Less holes is better IMO.
Thank you all for your thoughts. I think I'll try a larger clamshell. I do take my motor off each year for storage. I would like to be able to get the wires in and out without having to adjust the clamshell. I find the screw holes are less tight with each removal.
Twist lock is definitely important. In fact, I bet manufacturers recommend direct connection to the battery to avoid risk of alternator damage. Pull starting and running the outboard disconnected from the battery is fine, but not the reverse. Alternator damage could occur if the connector shook lose while loaded on the battery.
If you go Minn Kota / Marinco, I recommend silicone to seal the receptacle hole. Definitely do not use plastic damaging polysulfide caulk.
After some excellent comments from several people, I have decided to try using a large clamshell. That way I hope to be able to feed the alternator line into the hole with my fingers. The trolling plug approach seems to me to have the downside of not having a direct connect between the outboard and the battery - simply is generally better.
If the larger clamshell doesn't work, I'll go to the trolling plug. Each year I remove the outboard in the fall and install it again in the spring. That calls for a permanent fixture.
Next year, when I try feeding the wires through the hole inside the large clamshell, I'll let you know how it goes.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.