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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I've completed the swing keel painting and now am starting on the bottom paint. I have no access to any type of hoist so I figured I would jack up the stern of the trailer a few inches, position two sailboat stands under the hull about half way between the keel and the transom, and lower the boat onto the stand pads. Then I will remove the roller assemblies temporarily to sand and paint. After painting, reverse the procedure and then repeat for the bow. My question is this, are the any preferred locations for the placement of stands? Should they be placed near a structural bulkhead? Does anyone and the locations documented? I'll be starting this process tomorrow 7/2 so input today would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Brian & JoAnne Gleissner Knot So Fast 1984 Catalina 25, SR/SK Traditional Interior Lake Candlewood, CT
Brian That's a lot of boat to move around by yourself! I'd be really worried that one of the two jackstands might sink into soft ground or that something could get hung up and pin you underneath. My advice is: since its on a trailer, hitch it to your tow vehicle and drive down to the nearest marina and ask them to hoist it on the travel lift. [url="http://www.candlewoodlake.org/candlewood-lake-marinas.htm"]Click here for suggestions[/url]
That said, if you must, place a 24x24" piece of 5/8" or 1" plywood under the jackstands, which should likely prevent one or both sinking. As far as placement, when my boat yard boss sets the jackstands under <i>Passage</i>, he sets them angled inward (75 degrees or so) perpendicular with the curvature of the hull, set about 18-24" from centerline and with heavy chain between the jackstands to prevent them slipping out. They are not vertical.
The hull is incredibly solid, so no worries about exact placement.
When fully fitted out for winter on the hard, he drops the keel onto an pair of 8"x8" blocks of wood (fore and aft), with two stands about 24" from the transom, two stands even with the back edge of the keel, two stands just forward of the keel and a V-stand holding the bow.
In this case the weight is borne mainly by the keel, while the jackstands are set to balance the whole enchalada. In your case, a great deal of weight will be held by two jackstands while you're working underneath.
This is a major risk to life and limb. I advise against it. Check your life insurance policy...
I repainted the antifouling almost every year that I owned my fin keel C25. With a roller trailer, the process is easy. I hitched the trailer to the tow vehicle, lowered the keel support, unwound about 6" of cable from the winch, started the truck's engine, put the tranny in low gear, and stepped on the gas briefly, just enough to cause the boat to roll back 6" on the trailer. (Of course, be sure the winch is locked when you roll the boat back.) Then, I unwound about another 4-6" of cable from the winch, and used the same method to roll the boat back another few inches on the trailer. That moved the boat enough to paint under the rollers. When I was done painting, and the paint had dried, I winched the boat forward on the trailer.
Thanks Bruce - Plywood, check. Sailboat Stands (angled), check. Chain between, check. Resting Keel on Trailer to reduce weight, check. Thanks for the cautioning words and I hear you. Unfortunately I don't own a suitable truck to pull her nor are there any marinas on our lake with "sailboat" equipment or focus anymore. I'm doing it in two halves to reduce the risk and weight. I'm only raising her about an inch off the rollers to be able to remove the roller assemblies giving me a few inches of clearance to sand and paint. The bottom isn't bad but I'd like to do a very good job this time so only touchup will be needed in years to come. I'll let you know how I do tomorrow.
Hi Steve - I may use that method for future years (the PO described it in the same way you did) but unfortunately some of the paint layers have chipped a bit in spots. There are also 12 pairs of rollers on each side (48 rollers in all) so I would have to move it quite a bit to be able to hit everything. I'm on fresh water so the Interlux ACT should hold up pretty well.
Brian I hear you - I was a little bit alarmed because I did my 16 foot daysailor (weights about 600#) just about the same way about 10 years ago. Needles to say, when it fell, my son or I could have gotten hurt had we been underneath. Boat was fine, by the way.
My mental picture of a C-25 doing the same thing was quite harrowing.
Good luck - and I hope you launch soon. I'll bring the adult beverages!
Hi Bruce - Believe me, I'll be doing it safely. I don't plan on raising it any more than I need to. 1"-2" should do it. Once I get the aft rollers off, it should clean up pretty quickly. I have a sanding setup that I use for drywall that filters the dust through a bucket of water. It really contains the dust. I use it in the house and almost no cleanup is required in the same room.
Brian, I started down the path you describe, but decided it was too labor intensive. What I do instead is have my hauler (I don't have a tow vehicle) move the boat back on the trailer. We let out about 6 inches of winch cable and loosen the safety chain. Then he backs up the rig and hits the brakes. It takes a couple of tries, but the boat will move back on the rollers, exposing the parts of the hull that are usually covered. I paint those areas last. Half an hour or so later, we crank the boat back in and tow it to the marina for launch.
I was apprehensive about this method at first, but it has worked well for me. I was worried about tearing out the bow eye, but my hauler has a precise touch with his truck. The cable still has some slack, even after the boat has moved.
Thanks Solomon - I was very successful with my "stand" method today. I got about 2" of clearance above the rollers and removed the assemblies. I only prepped 1/2 of the stern section but should be able to get 1-2 coats on tomorrow. The temp is in the upper 80's here so it dries fast. If I get the first coat on early, I should be able to recoat in the evening. I'm scuffing the existing bottom paint (what is left of the Interlux ACT) with a 120 grit sanding screen and then cleaning the entire surface with the recommended solvent/thinner from Interlux. I put the roller assemblies back on loosely just as a precaution. My bow eye is a little loose so I'd be concerned about the alternate method right now. Definitely an option for periodic recoat. Thanks for the input.
The PO used the Interlux ACT so I stayed with the same. There may be others under that or possibly just a barrier coat. I used a 120 grit sanding screen to scuff it up then wiped it down with the Interlux Thinner. It looks like everything stuck well. I'm trying to be careful not to make a mess all over my nice trailer. The PO used the "Roll Back & Forth" method. I'm at least half done (more like 2/3 if you count the keel) but I'm taking a break today and hope this heat wave breaks.
Well, not much of a break in the heat. I managed to jack up the bow and remove the roller assemblies. I'll start sanding on Wednesday. I'm hoping to get her in the water in a few weeks. Still got no mooring approval, looks like it is going on the dock for this season. The lake authority said they would re-visit my mooring application if the draft becomes a problem. The lake level does go up and down based on rainfall and draw-off so we shall see. I think the depth at the dock is about 6 feet.
Brian, the bottom paint looks good! I just redid mine and for a trailered boat, fresh bottom paint sure makes the boat pop and I feel a lot better about the appearance of the boat. All of my ugly paint was pretty annoying.
Re-bedding my bow eye was pretty easy, it was only secured by two nuts that were be accessible by removing a hatch cover in the bow. As someone else noted above the hull is pretty stout. CD has a backing block, and a reinforcing chromed plate for the bow eye if you need it. Doug
I'm glad to report that the bottom of "Knot So Fast" is completely painted and she is sitting back on her trailer comfortably. I know some of you thought I was pinned underneath her for the past few weeks but those rumors were greatly exagerated. Now I need to find a place to put her. Our mooring option has been denied by the local lake authority. The will allow me to put it on the dock but our neighbor has clearly expressed his disapproval and although he has no legal grounds for it, my parents just don't want the hassle. I've been looking for a willing soul that wants to make $500, the easy way. I have all the mooring hardware, just have to find someone that has an existing mooring that they are not using. Wish me luck.
Craigslist! Also, can the Lake Assn recommend anybody with an inactive permit? Is a mooring permit a matter of public record? Can you do a little homework to figure that out? I can't see why the neighbors are being such sticklers - I can see why your folks don't want to start "Family Fued" as well. You can run an ad in the local weeklies, on Patch, on Craigslist, News-Times and post a flyer or two at the local marinas and both ramps. You should also check with the USPower Squadron - Candlewood. They have many older members who have stopped using their boats but may still have a mooring. USPS District 2, Candlewood website is listed below. Contact the Commander, webmaster, XO, SEO and Secretary. Among them they should know someone who could use a few shamolians! I also posted a list of marinas above - you may get lucky and find a taker or two.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.