Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Is it possible to fill the ballast tank on the WB 250 through the air vent tube in the anchor locker? I replaced the two rubber gaskets on the ballast valve (got parts from Catalina) but no one mentioned that the two gaskets needed to be glued with 5200 to the valve and each other. When we put the boat in the water and opened the valve to fill the tank, nothing happend because the gaskets wont ride down with the valve. I would prefer not to have to haul the boat out to glue, and wait a week for it to cure. Only other option is to go under water to open the gaskets, while the tank fills.
Yes... I think it would be possible but it will take a while as the air must escape. Its routes for doing so are only two... around the ballast valve shaft if it is loosened enough to allow air past the rubber washer there and of course competing with the incoming water in the vent tube. I'm betting it will take a couple of hours.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Only other option is to go under water to open the gaskets, while the tank fills.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
If you're putting your boat in for the season, this seems like a viable option. If you're daysailing, not so much. Since you don't seem to be daysailing from your comments, could you open the gaskets as you said and put something around the valve stem to keep them from riding back up? Like a constrictor knot, zip tie, etc.? That way you can sail this season, and take care of the gluing when you haul for the winter.
<i> Bear in mind I don't own a WB, so this may just be a stupid question:</i> Could you make a tool to push the gaskets down from inside the cabin, like a stiff garden hose split down the side so it'd fit around the valve stem? At least that way you could fill the tank each time with only minimal hassle. The hose should still give you enough clearance for air to vent properly. Once the tank was full, remove the tool until you need to drain (not even sure this is necessary).
We fill the ballast tank from the vent located in the anchor locker whenever on salt water and when we have access to a fresh water tap. It takes the better part of 2 hours to fill the 120 gallon tank.
Our method is as follows
0) Ballast tank main valve remains closed during/after launching 1) Use a 3 ft clear one inch hose and friction lock this a couple of inches into the vent opening located in the anchor locker. 2) Hand connect the 3 ft clear hose to a water hose and tap 3) Fill at full tap water pressure for about 5 or so minutes 4) Stop the water flow, disconnect the tap from the clear tube 5) Mouth blow into the clear tube to initiate a "burb" from the ballast tank and let it vent 6) Repeat this with more frequent stops to burb the tank when it is getting filled. 7) After about two hours the tank is close to full. 8) Now open the main valve and completely flood the tank. 9) When the tank is topped up using the main valve, close the valve 10) Especially the first couple of hours you'll notice some internal burping and rumbling... Open the main valve again to ensure the ballast tank is totally filled... Don't forget to close it!!
If there is no access to fresh water we usually add a cup of bleach to the tank
Our 17 year old tank keeps on smelling like new... it is a bit of a nuisance doing it this way but... we think it to be worthwhile...
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.