Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by NautiC25</i> <br />Nope, but I'm bidding on the pair of 1" mounts that ends tomorrow. Don't outbid me! lol <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Don't worry. I just bid on the second set of two.
Glad you posted this. I forgot I bid on a set. 22 hours left on my auction. Hope no one bids against me. There are four other pairs listed with no bids.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by pastmember</i> <br />Those are what I used to store my bimini behind my backstay too. I bet I have bought 10 over the years. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I don't get this Frank. When stored this way, how does the bimini work? Shading fish? Or do you unhook it from this position and rehook it into the position to deploy it?
I was at the boat yesterday and this morning and it looks like I might be able to adjust the turnbuckles enough at each end to drop the lines to the rear legs on the pulpit without cutting the lines (but it will be close). If it works out it would be sweet because I could move them back up to the original site. Why I would want to do that is beyond me.
Here's the outcome. Surprise, I used 1/4" amsteel. :)
I first ran the lines to the front lower pulpit leg like an early model, and used a cow hitch. With the angle of the leg, and the tension, the line stays at the bottom. I then put a stopper knot behind the last leg to keep the tension. For the cockpit line, I just put a knot in a snap shackle. The snap shackle and amsteel were the only two parts needed. Simple, cheap, and lightweight. The results were great and I don't think I'll need the rail mounts. I'll probably use them elsewhere. Here's a pic, sorry for the size but I'm on the lake with phone.
I'll adjust the pic when I get home. As you can see, my 110 doesn't hit the line, and u can see where the original loop is way above the foot of the sail.
That looks good! I'm definitely going to have to change my lines now. The sail has really good shape now that it doesn't have to go up and over the lifeline.
I was talking to a guy today that owns a 92 Capri 22. His pulpit has a loop attachment at the top AND the bottom, so you can attach it to either if you're racing.
My old steel lifelines weighed 9lbs. New lifelines, 1 lb.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by NautiC25</i> <br />I was talking to a guy today that owns a 92 Capri 22. His pulpit has a loop attachment at the top AND the bottom, so you can attach it to either if you're racing.
My old steel lifelines weighed 9lbs. New lifelines, 1 lb. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Are you saying your forward pulpit legs don't have a welded loop near the deck. Mine has one at the top and the bottom.
Interesting. My boat was built shortly before yours. I wonder why Catalina had so many variations in construction on the same year model boats?
I think Pastmembers '89 had what looked like 2 x 4 bracing across the keel well area that helped support the sole and I assume strengthen the keel area. Mine doesn't have those braces.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.