Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by NCBrew</i> <br />I am installing a CDI FF4 furler and the instructions say
" The turnbuckle must be locked by cotter pins" and "Do not use a 3 piece (NAVTECK) turnbuckle".
My turnbuckle is a 1 piece body with a small hole in the center and locking nuts on each end. I don't know what a Navteck turnbuckle is.
If necessary I can post a picture of the turnbuckle.
Sounds like you have the standard Catalina closed body turnbuckles. If they are the ones that came with your boat (1977?) may I suggest that you get 3 new ones that are the forged bronze open body turnbuckles. One for the forestay, and one for each of the upper shrouds. The reason I suggest that is I have had two of the closed body turnbuckles fail (the body broke in two due to stress corrosion). Mine were from 1976 and they broke about 10 years ago.
To try to address your question, maybe they are referring to the NavTec 3 piece turnbuckles? Take a look at:
They had a re-call a while back due to the center body failing on them. I think they are ok now, but maybe the furler folks do not like them for a different reason? Cheers!
Thanks for the info about the recall, Chuck. I have a Navtec C550 turnbuckle on my backstay, and just emailed the company to inquire about a replacement.
when they say <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> " The turnbuckle must be locked by cotter pins" and "Do not use a 3 piece (NAVTECK) turnbuckle". <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
That is the key IMHO, the turnbuckle is hidden from view when the furler is fully installed, so we could not view it to see if it had slackened/rotated.
We have the stainless turnbuckles on our newer shrouds, and the turnbuckle bolts have holes for the cotter pins (or split pins as they are referred to in the UK)
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Steve Milby</i> <br />Thanks for the info about the recall, Chuck. I have a Navtec C550 turnbuckle on my backstay, and just emailed the company to inquire about a replacement. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Hi Steve!
I do not use the NavTec turnbuckles, so my awareness of the recall was via a buddy that has them. Not sure when it was, but I do not think it was really recent. I also saw something about the recall on the web, but cannot remember where....
Went to West Marine in Norfolk, Va (150 miles round trip). I called them to see if they had them in stock he said "we have plenty". Their plenty consisted of 3 closed turnbuckles (very small) and enclosed just like the one I have.
After speaking to CDI I went online and purchased a turnbuckle body and now I have to drill 2 holes in the forestay screws for cotter pins. It is terrible when you live in the sticks with no marine stores near by.
<<now I have to drill 2 holes in the forestay screws >>
Ask around but I think you are able to use the locking nuts above and below the open turnbuckles, just as you had on the closed turnbuckles. Right and Left hand screws on those nuts.
I had closed-body turnbuckles with locking nuts on another boat--never trusted them (and had one scare). If your standing rigging is original, it't time for new. Catalina Direct sells sets (and individual stays) that include the one-piece open body bronze turnbuckles Chuck referred to, that you lock with cotter pins or seizing wire--virtually fail-proof. I used bronze cotter pins, which wrap nicely around the body.
<< If your standing rigging is original, time for new. >>
New to me, but probably replaced when they replaced the mast ( twice ).
I'm trying to replace the turnbuckles one at a time. I'm going with the locking nut on the top ( for the one that is not tapped with a hole ), but adding indicator red nail polish ( locktite).
Mine is on a hank jib so I cannot imagine what is involved with the roller furling.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by redeye</i> <br /><<now I have to drill 2 holes in the forestay screws >>
Ask around but I think you are able to use the locking nuts above and below the open turnbuckles, just as you had on the closed turnbuckles. Right and Left hand screws on those nuts.
The whole idea of using the cotterpins or safety wire is you cannot see if a locking nut has loosened if its inside the furing drum. So I would be really careful about securing just with locking nuts.
For turnbuckles outside where you can see them, the nailpolish trick would work fine! unless both back off together.......(which is normally what happens if they loosen themselves). so get the nailpolish onto the toggle and shroud also.....
OK, I'm going to blurt it out... Lock nuts on turnbuckles are just a <i>bad idea</i>. Every time you tack or run the engine, little shocks and vibrations threaten to loosen them just a little, and "just a little" means they're <b><i>unlocked</i></b>. Locking them means jamming them on the threads, which can lead to galling, promote corrosion, and eventually cause a broken stud. I know--"everyone uses them." And "everyone" also drinks and drives. Most get away with either, but both are bad ideas.
Open bodies with pins or wires... the seamanlike solution, inside a furler or out. That's my one cent--probably worth about what you paid for it.
<< That's my one cent- >> That's good to know then.. I don't trust no stinkin lockin nut on a Turnbuckle...
I'll sleep better at night.
OK I'll recap.
I replaced a closed turnbuckle on the forstay with an open turnbuckle, and the top screw that is attached to the cable of the forstay does not have a hole in the screw to accept a cotter pin.
The bottom screw has a hole as I changed it out..
Forgive me for adding confusion then... as NCBrew said this from the get go..( drill the screws and add cotter pins )
Q: Would you think it difficult to drill on location?
Dremel... Tread making tool...
I've got the Dremel and the drills, I've got the thread thingie.. I just don't know what it is called. Tools from my father's shed.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.