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Dinghy Outboard Motor hoist

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britinusa
Web Editor

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USA
5404 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/16/2010 : 16:37:09

Our new Suzuki 2.5hp outboard is due in a couple of weeks.

We wanted a way to hoist the outboard from the stern rail motor mount pad to the dingy, but without the high risk of dropping the motor into the briney (Although with effort they can be restarted... right Tom?

)

So, here's my idea for an outboard motor hoist.

[url="http://www.livescribe.com/cgi-bin/WebObjects/LDApp.woa/wa/MLSOverviewPage?sid=lKTdHqBJ0kZP"]Click here for the sketch, view it full screen and click on the Play button.[/url]

Paul

Joint Decision. (Sold)
PO C250WB 2005 Sail # 841.

Moved up to C34 Eximius

Updated August 2015

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Tom Potter
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1913 Posts

Response Posted - 05/16/2010 : 17:30:17

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by britinusa
 (Although with effort they can be restarted... right Tom?

)

Paul
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

ah the miracles of WD-40!

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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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3704 Posts

Response Posted - 05/16/2010 : 19:49:29

Paul, that is a very good concept! You could swing the assembly to the port side and fasten the outboard to the catbird seat while underway. Is the pin that holds the bracket going through the existing hole on the upper (thinner) tube?

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britinusa
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5404 Posts

Response Posted - 05/16/2010 : 20:09:57

Randy, I was thinking of mounting the motor pad on the stern rail (we keep the life-sling II on the port catbird rail)

Yes, the pin will go through the upper tube, and will allow the upper tube to rotate within the lower tube.

I'm thinking that the beam only needs to be about 15" long, but I'll make a plywood mock-up first.

Ideally the beam would be a piece of stainless (to keep the gods happy), perhaps a rounded U channel.

Our next trip is on Memorial day weekend, so don't know if it will be built by then, but should definitely be ready for our 2 week cruise in June.

Paul

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britinusa
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5404 Posts

Response Posted - 05/22/2010 : 03:49:26

Looks like I'll have a bit longer to build the motor hoist. A major plumbing job on the house has not even started yet and so we cannot have our daughter stay at the house in this condition, so the Memorial Day weekend sail is in the porta pottie.

Went to ACE hardware, they didn't have any metal that would suit, but did have aluminum angle that I could fabricate the beam from. Nearly bought it until I found the price for the 8' x 1.5"x1.5" x 1/8" piece was $45

Looking for another source of Aluminium, can't find SS that size off the shelf yet.

Paul

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 05/22/2010 : 08:03:16

Hmmm, can't view it on the iPhone, what's with Jobs & Flash?

Sounds intriguing, I'll check it out when I get to my PC.

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Stinkpotter
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Djibouti
9075 Posts

Response Posted - 05/22/2010 : 08:51:34

Nice solution! Looks like all you need is stopper-knot under the slot in the horizontal arm to support it, and one above the arm to keep it from folding upward under the tension.

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britinusa
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5404 Posts

Response Posted - 05/22/2010 : 09:05:23

Good idea Dave! Thanks.

Paul

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britinusa
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5404 Posts

Response Posted - 05/22/2010 : 09:09:10

David, can't view it on my Droid phone either

I'll export the pics to a pdf and post it.

Paul

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JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

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1520 Posts

Response Posted - 05/23/2010 : 18:50:25

Paul,

You must know about the attachment points of the mast crutch on the transom, and how sturdy those bolts and backing plates are. Since you are causing a downward force on the arm equal to the weight of the outboard plus the lifting acceleration, it causes an equal force on those bolts on the transom.

The crutch was designed for holding a weight vertically with some lateral forces when transporting the boat. Depending on how heavy your dinghy outboard is, you may be exceeding the design capability of the crutch. Or, maybe not. It's your call.

Possible modification - A temporary line between the top of the "crane" and another fixture in the cockpit, like a winch and a cleat, could be added to counteract the force pulling the top of the crane astern.

In the same regard, I would move the cam cleat to the central post and add a turning block to bring the hoisting line to the central post also, so that you are pulling down against the main strength of the crutch in the vertical direction.

I like the idea of a folding arm - makes it compact and unobtrusive.

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britinusa
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5404 Posts

Response Posted - 05/24/2010 : 04:05:00

Good points John.

The turning effort of the 40lb outboard(inc fuel) is a concern, I'm looking at some kind of bracing that can go between the support pole and the stern rail.

I think the crane beam will have to be angled up to about 45º to allow raising the motor-strap-blockset high enough to facilitate getting the outboard onto the motor mount.

Currently I'm looking at putting the motor mount on the stbd catbird seat, that or above the rudder.
We have a lot of hardware on the stern: Solar panel pole, DTV Antenna pole, Mast support pole, Bimini, catbird seat, hard link, Nissan 9.8hp, LifeslingII, and now the Suzuki 2.5hp which weighs about 40lbs fueled.

Paul

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frog0911
Master Marine Consultant

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1349 Posts

Response Posted - 05/24/2010 : 14:19:07

WOW, looks like a couple of hundred more pounds required in the bow!!!!

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britinusa
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5404 Posts

Response Posted - 05/24/2010 : 14:22:34

Jerry, right there!
Even with our 26gal flex tank under the v-berth full of fresh water she still sits bow high.

Paul

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