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I would like to add shore power connection for my boat. I put together a parts list and just want to run it passed the forum to make sure I'm not overlooking something.
The only purpose for this is for a battery charger, so its a simple system. Marinco 30A Contoured Power Inlet 304EL-B - $85 Blue Seas 30A + 3 position CB - $200 Triplex wire 10-3 (20ft) - $80 Prof. Mariner ProSport 6, 1 Output, 12V, 6A Capacity $90
Total: $455.00
I have no idea where to install the Blue Seas CB panel, its about the same size as the DC switch panel thats stock in the C250. My other option is to use a fuse panel and mount it in the battery compartment.
Any recommendations much appreciated! Also I was going to put the inlet near the engine where the battery comes in, is that better than the outside rail?
I put the CB on the electrical panel in the upper right hand corner. Seemed logical. As for the inlet, yes, put it where the starter cables for the engine enter the boat. If you're installing AC for your charger, why not add an AC socket as well? I use mine constantly. I recommend using an home exterior AC box so you don't have to cut a flush mount hole in your boat. Just put it in parallel with your charger's AC input. The 30A CB will service both devices. See pics below.
My AC master connector is about the same place as Windsong's. My charger and 3-circuit AC panel are about the same place as frog's. One switch controls the hard-wired charger. Other two switches control two separate GFCI outlets, one on aft bulkhead where frog shows his battery selector (I have only one battery, thus no selector), and the second outlet is in the headliner at the front of the aft berth, near where most people have their VHF radios (and also conveniently close to the galley). While these positions may not be as close to the V-berth as some may wish, it avoided the need to run another conduit like frog did.
The latter outlet was so well hidden that I did not realize it was on the boat until after I bought it. I had to trace the wire from the panel to find it. I also discovered that it was not GFCI protected, so I added that last weekend.
I agree that you should definitely put in at least one AC outlet - I use them much more than I thought I would, and I haven't even done an overnight yet.
I'm having shore power installed at a boat yard in Alameda and will post photos of the results when finished. It should be out of the yard by the end of next week.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by frog0911</i> <br />I don't like items sticking out that I can whack a knee or foot on so I built in everything.
In Starboard coming box also 12V plug. It keeps everything dry. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
<u>How did you get to the back of the combing box ?</u> I was thinking of installing a speaker in the starboard box and could not find any way to access the hidden side.
<font color="navy">$450 seems like too much just to power a trickle charger. {Donning flack jacket and helmet} Why not run a 50 foot outdoor extension cord (one equipped with a built-in ground fault interrupter) thru a thru hull fitting placed high on the hull where-ever it is convenient ? Run the 120v cord to a point near the battery. Then plug in the battery maintainer inside the hull.
The thru hull location I favor is the anchor locker since the outdoor end of the cord could be stored there when away from your dock. A combing cubby hole could work too.</font id="navy">
James, that's what I do except, I just drop the female end of the extension cord through the companionway and plug in a fused power strip. Works great. Cost nothing.
You have to remove the aft panel to gain access to the combing box. In the picture I posted 5/10/10 the panel was one piece before I cut it to allow access without having to remove the electrical components. First remove the port side board then take out the battery hatch, remove the screws and pull it out from the top using the battery hole. If you have wheel steering you will have to remove the foam protector also. You can then look up at the combing box.
Same here. I slightly notched the top of the companionway hatchboard so a 10 gauge cord will fit. I made a 50' cord with a 20 amp connector so I can plug into my riser in the marina, and use a standard 12 amp cord when the boat's alongside the house in the winter. We don't have a charger, but we keep a heater running 24/7 to minimize moisture in the interior.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by John Russell</i> <br />James, that's what I do except, I just drop the female end of the extension cord through the companionway and plug in a fused power strip. Works great. Cost nothing. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> You might want to include one of these before your power strip:
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.