Association Forum - cable steering to outboard

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 250 Specific Forum

cable steering to outboard

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

essen48183
Navigator

Member Avatar

USA
143 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/27/2009 : 21:51:54

I would like a hard link to my outboard... Not too fond of the big metal components sticking out the back that need to be disconnected when raising the system. I assume that is what the short rope is for on the soft link system too... so that you can disconnect it when raising it. I don't like the bungee look either. I will probably start with the bungee system... due to the ease and cost of making it work... and this isn't going to be allowed to delay my launch... but as the season progresses, I'd like to move to a hard link that never gets disconnected.

What I have been trying to figure out is how to link the outboard from the front and it is a PITA. Then it hit me... what about placing cable clamps on the upper corners of the trim bezel around the rubber boot (inside or outside the boat) and running sheathed cables to the arm (either outside of or inside of the boat) and running the other ends of those to the front of the outboard with the cable clamps placed at the up/down pivot point height and fore/aft position so that the angles wouldn't change when the motor was raised.

My dad's boat has a wheel helm and a hard link made from a SS rod with swiveling ends on the front of the rudder and front of the motor that doesn't need to be removed when he tilts it (different model of boat so it wasn't hard to add for him and a simple bend was all it took to make it work raised and lowered both) The reason I add this is to say that I'm sure the weight of the raised motor doesn't make steering noticable more difficult if it is still linked. He set it up to be able to easily disconnect it to remove the outboard from the system, but found it didn't make a difference in the wheel sensation or effort with the motor up or down... so it never gets disconnected.

It seems like this could work on a 250 using teleflex or similar cables in a pull-pull configuration.

Can anyone see a way to hook up the front of the motor in such a way as to not need to unhook it when the motor is raised that doesn't add the friction of sheathed cables?

Essen Davis
Trenton, MI

"Cornbread"
1995 Catalina 250, Water Ballast , Hull #161
http://gallery.me.com/essen#gallery

Edited by - on

essen48183
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
143 Posts

Response Posted - 04/27/2009 : 22:06:11

here is the front hard link (notice that a few simple bends makes the geometry work up and down ) on a different model of boat.
http://kobernus.com/hunter260/ezsteer/ezsteer.html

here is the thingy $19 for zinc, $49 for SS
http://www.amazon.com/Stearns-auxillary-steering-Marine-Stainless/dp/B00199CIE2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8& s=sporting-goods& qid=1240895531& sr=1-1

Edited by - essen48183 on 04/27/2009 22:13:34

Navy1
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
126 Posts

Response Posted - 04/28/2009 : 11:18:05

Hi Essen, Thanks a lot for your posts on the E-Z Steer and other auxiliary motor steering systems. They are just what I have been looking for. I am in the process of setting up my Honda 9.9 with remote start, steering and shift, but was going to just lock the motor straight ahead and just use the rudder for manuvering, but now I think I will get one of the control rods you mentioned from "Golden Auziliary Motor Link Steering Connector". My boat is a 2004 250WB and my question is wether the rod will adjust to the right length for hookup between the front of my motor and the back edge of my rudder? I don't think the ad states what length it is adjustable to. I would need about a 20" adjustable rod. I imagine your settup would be about the same. Looks like I would have to mount it to the front of my motor and then to the back edge of my rudder. Thanks for the info. Roger

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/28/2009 : 11:51:44

I was in Cabela's over the weekend looking at one of these and wondering if I could make it work with my setup (I've discarded three designs as unworkable so far). Since it's a 90 minute drive to Cabelas one way, I didn't want to drop the $50 or so and not be able to use it. I've been thinking about a way to extend the controls forward even further, but am stymied by the starboard side of the pushpit rails being in the way. I wonder if the tiller is a long enough lever arm to make this work so close to the front of the outboard. There are holes in the carry handle that'll make it easy to connect up there, I'd just have to figure out how to connect it to my rudder.

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

Members Avatar

USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/28/2009 : 12:20:11

Here's the arm for $40 or so: http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/cb.aspx?a=281256& kwtid=206892

Edited by - on

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 04/28/2009 : 14:16:12

That Hunter 260 has a steering connection arm that is ideal for a hard link.

When you get this all designed and built please post photos.

Edited by - Nautiduck on 04/28/2009 14:16:47

TakeFive
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

2272 Posts

Response Posted - 04/06/2010 : 18:36:06

I know this is an old thread, but still a relevant topic. I'm researching hard links and just ordered the Stearns SS link from Amazon. I figured for $60 I'll give it a shot.

I'm curious to hear how the guys made out with linking the back of their rudder to the front of their motors. Seems to me that this would cause the motor to turn the wrong direction.

Edited by - on

Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
2980 Posts

Response Posted - 04/07/2010 : 05:44:45

Design requirements are dictated by the way one uses their boat. A boat that is cruised will sometimes motor a passage or part of a passage and linked steering at cruising speed is not good so a cruiser must have a system that easily connects/disconnects.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 04/07/2010 : 06:58:08

I agree with Arlyn--when motoring in open water, you want to be able to set the motor so your helm is totally neutral and then steer with just the rudder--it can be virtually hands-free. Connected, you'll be zig-zagging to your destination. If you never travel distances with the motor, then maybe this won't bother you. But tipped up, a connected motor is almost certainly going to try to flop over one way or the other. If it's connected, it'll make steering difficult.

Edited by - on

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 04/07/2010 : 12:42:14

Rick, are you sure you need a link? We have had our C250 for three seasons and do not use a link. Simpler is better IMHO. Some people, due to their marina conditions, find the link helpful. I'd try to do without it first.

Edited by - on

TakeFive
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

2272 Posts

Response Posted - 04/07/2010 : 19:59:44

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Nautiduck
 Rick, are you sure you need a link? We have had our C250 for three seasons and do not use a link. Simpler is better IMHO. Some people, due to their marina conditions, find the link helpful. I'd try to do without it first.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
No, I am not completely sure I need it. But as I described in another thread, the currents run very fast in the Delaware River, and when I'm forced to dock or pull out with the current very unexpected things can happen (and have happened). I am hoping that turning the motor can make the response more predictable when docking, so I want to give the link a try. For $60 it's worth a shot, and the place has a good return policy if I decide I don't want it after looking it over.

For now we are just leaving the motor down when we sail, so the motor flopping over should not be a problem. I realize we may become more finicky about performance under sail in the future. We do tilt it up when docked (see my signature pic), but we also tie off the wheel because the currents will push aside (and perhaps break) the rudder. I will have to look over install locations to see how easily it can be removed. If the top of the rudder provides sufficient lever arm (perhaps using the tiller hole to attach it), then it would be within easy reach for removal if we want to tilt the motor up while under sail.

Edited by - TakeFive on 04/07/2010 20:02:02

britinusa
Web Editor

Members Avatar

USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 04/08/2010 : 18:20:33

Here's a link to my C250 WB hard link system.
Now 3 years old and still working pefectly.

On our last trip out, we picked up some seaweed around the prop. I leant over, pulled the pin to disconnect the hard link, then raised the moter (ie swung it fwd) and cleard the weed) then lowered the engine, repinned the hardl link, up throttle and we were on our way.

[url="http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=16477&SearchTerms=hard,link"]hard line[/url]

Note: We had to replace the engine in 2008 (my booboo), the hard link transferred to the new engine in just a few minutes.

Paul

Edited by - on

TakeFive
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

2272 Posts

Response Posted - 04/08/2010 : 18:35:25

Thanks for spoonfeeding the link to that thread. Either the search function is really lousy, or I haven't figured out exactly how to use it. Because I searched and searched, and either turned up a prohibitively high number of false hits, or turned up nothing. This thread is the only one I had found on the subject.

If there's a v4.0, then there must be lots of other threads on the topic. Could you point me to them? Or better yet, post a link that will get an accurate search listing (not too many, not too few)?

Edited by - on

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2010 : 08:04:12

When you search are you specifying the 250 Forum and clicking the Archives box?

Edited by - on

TakeFive
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

2272 Posts

Response Posted - 05/22/2010 : 19:49:31

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by RhythmDoctor
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Nautiduck
 Rick, are you sure you need a link? We have had our C250 for three seasons and do not use a link. Simpler is better IMHO. Some people, due to their marina conditions, find the link helpful. I'd try to do without it first.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
No, I am not completely sure I need it. But as I described in another thread, the currents run very fast in the Delaware River, and when I'm forced to dock or pull out with the current very unexpected things can happen (and have happened). I am hoping that turning the motor can make the response more predictable when docking, so I want to give the link a try. For $60 it's worth a shot, and the place has a good return policy if I decide I don't want it after looking it over.

For now we are just leaving the motor down when we sail, so the motor flopping over should not be a problem. I realize we may become more finicky about performance under sail in the future. We do tilt it up when docked (see my signature pic), but we also tie off the wheel because the currents will push aside (and perhaps break) the rudder. I will have to look over install locations to see how easily it can be removed. If the top of the rudder provides sufficient lever arm (perhaps using the tiller hole to attach it), then it would be within easy reach for removal if we want to tilt the motor up while under sail.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Quick update. I had decided to return the Stearns $60 hard link, but I just could not bring myself to send it back. I decided to figure out something to do with it. Installing a motor mount and/or making the needed mods to allow full rotation of the motor within the narrow motor well was way more complicated than I was willing to do, plus it creates other problems such as making it very difficult to tilt the motor up. So I decided that rather than seeking the perfection of the motor rotating 100% of its full capability, I designed the installation to give some rotation (about 80% of the motor's maximum), but not enough to bump against the sides of the motor well. I've fabricated all the needed parts and will install it next chance I get to go down to the boat.

The Stearns link is very nicely designed to be easily removed when I want to tilt the motor for storage. Right now we are not all that picky about performance (and we need to be able to fire up the motor on short notice if a freighter is coming), so we will probably leave the motor down with link in place while we are sailing.

Edited by - on

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.