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Rewiring my aft nav light

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redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/23/2009 : 12:00:20

I'm about to replace and rewire my aft nav light. I think the wire runs through the SS rail and I'm gonna pull new wire through if I can. Anyone done this lately and how did it go for you?

Thank You.

Ray in Atlanta, Ga.
"Lee Key" '84 Catalina 25
Standard Rig / Fin Keel

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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5347 Posts

Response Posted - 09/23/2009 : 17:08:45

Ray
I had to replace my stern pulpit this spring, and I just could not finagle the wire to go through the tubing. So instead I ran the wire from the power panel, through the dumpster (way up high, just under the lip) then I crawled into the quarterberth and drilled a hole up through the top edge of the transom next to the starboard stanchion.

I mounted the light at the top of the stanchion (where it makes a TEE with the railing) and fished the wire from the aft end of the dumpster, into the quarterberth, then up through the hole to the light.

I caulked the hole with some polysulfide to keep the water out, connected it to the connection screws in the light and it worked. I also have my VHF antenna mounted on the stern rail so I used a few cable ties on the stanchion to keep both wires in place.

By the way, I mounted the wires on the back of the stanchion so you don't see them from the cockpit.

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pastmember
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2402 Posts

Response Posted - 09/24/2009 : 09:13:43

You can go old school and put it on the transom like the earlier 25s.

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Renzo
Admiral

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USA
621 Posts

Response Posted - 09/24/2009 : 10:17:44

I rewired my sternlight last year after I had to remove the stern pulpit for repair. You can pull a new wire in most of the way easily but it gets tight at the bend from the upright stanchion into the horizontal tube of the pulpit. The thing to do is to make sure you attach the old wire to the new wire FIRMLY so that it won't come loose and also use lots of grease on the new wire to help it slide past the tight points.

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redeye
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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 09/25/2009 : 09:38:43

Thanks guys. I guess I'll go ahead and try to pull the wire first, get frustrated and then put the run on the outside. Stayed with incandescent and a new fixture from Catalina direct.

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Renzo
Admiral

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USA
621 Posts

Response Posted - 09/25/2009 : 10:16:24

Good luck! And don't give up too easy on pulling the wire. Another trick to make sure you don't loose the wire in the tube is to also tie a strong,light line on to the new wire using a couple of "constrictor" knots and taping over them tightly with electrical tape. That way if the connection between the old wire and the new wire parts you still have the line as a back-up to pull on. And remember use lots of grease.

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dlucier
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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 09/25/2009 : 13:19:26

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by pastmember
 You can go old school and put it on the transom like the earlier 25s.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Frank,

With the boat in the picture having a starboard mounted outboard, I'd have to conclude it is newer than my 1980 C25 which has the stern light mounted atop the starboard coaming just as it is shown in the parts manual on this site. Maybe Catalina used this transom mounted stern light somewhere in the middle years?

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redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 09/28/2009 : 05:10:46

Didn't get to pull wire this weekend. None of my friends were available to help and I wasn't about to jump in and out the dumpster by myself. I hope to get to it this weekend.

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Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 09/28/2009 : 07:24:40

Before you go down into the dumpster, bungee it to the rail or something... It's a pain when the hatch falls closed and the latch hasp hooks the eye!

Really dark, too!

BTW, when sealing around wires, polysulfide is not ideal--it's not "compatible" with plastics. A hybrid caulk like LifeSeal is better.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 09/28/2009 07:27:30

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 09/28/2009 : 09:47:27

That is pretty dang funny... I removed the dumpster hasp but thank you for the heads up Dave. Iffin I go through the hull with the wire I'll drill, sand, resin, and then caulk with 100 % silicone for this application. Thanks for the heads up on the Polysulfide not happy with plastic. I didn't know that.
I try not to go though the hull iffin I can... I look forward to having a nice, new, bright, "Dinius" light.

Still lookin for a disco ball for the topmast...

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Voyager
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USA
5347 Posts

Response Posted - 09/28/2009 : 18:31:13

Dave
If such a chain of events were to happen in the way you described, how long do you think it would take for someone to realize that a loved one were missing in action and come looking for that person? I guess it would be nice to be able to call someone on a cell phone at that point in time, or to be able to reach a VHF radio.

I'd hate to have to find just the right combination of wires on the back of the electrical panel to have to use a paper clip to spell out something like S-O-S on the anchor light or steaming light!

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redeye
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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 10/14/2009 : 11:09:26

Sorry I havn't followed up. Sick with a head cold. I should be able to get to it this weekend.

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redeye
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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 10/26/2009 : 09:33:46

I was able to work on the boat Sunday, but no help for getting in the dumpster. As I was leaving I looked up and the Anchor light is damaged. The original one lasted about 20 years, but my new one only lasted about 3.. Go figure.

It was a beautiful day and I worked in a quiet cove in 68 degree sunshine, so it was wonderful!

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redeye
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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 03/29/2010 : 07:33:53

So... when I got in the dumpter...

I cleaned the ends of the wires from the aft nav light and sandpapered all the connections. I replaced the aft nav light fixture with a new one. The aquasignal with the oem bulbs. The screws and bolts that had originally held the light on had a flat washer and lock washers, but after they were mounted the ends of the bolts had been cut off. Once you remove these bolts they can be difficult to get the screws started and sometimes they strip. I put new bolts and nuts, the nuts with built in nylon lock washers. As soon as I came back to the boat the next day the light was full of water, I opened up a notch in the bottom of the light and bent the bracket that holds the light so that the water will drain to the back of the light.
I replaced the red/green light on the front also. The screws on the lights require you have a very small Phillips screwdriver for the cover, and a small flat screwdriver to connect the wires.

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islander
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USA
4017 Posts

Response Posted - 03/29/2010 : 08:02:19

The easy way to pull the power line through the stanchions is NOT to use 14/2 duplex. Start by tying 3 or 4 messenger lines to the old cable and pull the old cable out. The 3 or 4 lines will now give you 3 or 4 trys at pulling the new wire through instead of just one. Next and this is the key, Use single 14 Gage wire, One red, One black. Now attach the single wire to the messenger line and pull it through. The single wire will go through much easier than trying to pull duplex. Now do the same with the other wire. As stated above the use of grease will help. If the line should break or come loose from the wire you still have the other messenger lines there for another try.

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redeye
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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 03/29/2010 : 09:40:23

Thank You for that info. That is a great way to get those wires in.

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