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 Fiberglass thickness over cabin?		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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Blue Nose
1st Mate

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67 Posts
Initially Posted - 05/04/2009 :  09:09:28  Show Profile
Does anyone know how thick the fiberglass is over the cabin just inside of the teak grabrails? I will be installing a deck line organizer and clutch but am unsure what length ss bolts to buy. I have an 1986 tall rig (non pop-top).

Also what do you recommend sealing the holes with to keep any water from seaping in?

Thanks!
1986 C-25 FK Tall Rig
"Blue Nose"
Mobjack Bay, Virginia
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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts
Response Posted - 05/04/2009 :  10:03:32  Show Profile
I recall a little over an inch--there's a 3/4" plywood core, with the deck above and headliner below. I had some spare screws that I used to check the ideal length, and then bought what I needed. How they sit in the organizers is also a factor.

There are two general approaches to mounting and bedding hardware--one where you drill oversized holes, fill them with thickened epoxy, and then re-drill the proper sized holes through the hardened epoxy, so that any seepage doesn't get into the plywood. The other approach is that you don't. I used the latter, but did the following (which you do even if you use the epoxy):

1. After drilling the holes, I used a larger bit with the drill turning in reverse (to prevent rapid biting) to cut a bevel into the fiberglass around the hole. This allows a little extra caulk to seal around the screws.

2. I put a generous amount of Boatlife Life Caulk (you can also use 3-M 101) <i>polysulfide</i> caulk--NOT polyurethane--on the underside of the organizer--enough so it would squeeze out on all sides upon mounting.

3. I mounted the organizers with fender washers and cap-nuts (or "acorn nuts") below, and hand-tightened them enough to squeeze caulk out on all sides. (If the screws are a little too long, you can use a regular nylock nut and add a cap-nut below it.) I let the caulk cure for 3-4 days, maybe a week... Don't bother trying to remove the excess at this point--it'll only make a mess.

4. After the cure, I held the screws stationary from above while tightening the nuts from below (easy with the pop-top up), thus compressing the gasket of caulk but not letting the screws break the seal around them.

5. I used a knife blade to trim the excess caulk, and then pulled it off--it pretty much just zips off.

One good additional step that I can't claim to have taken is to allow some unthickened epoxy or even "Git Rot" flowable expoxy to soak into the wood and set up before mounting the hardware.

Nothin' to it!
Edited by - Dave Bristle on 05/04/2009 10:31:09
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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts
Response Posted - 05/04/2009 :  10:33:12  Show Profile  Visit Prospector's Homepage
just drilled through to install a nicro vent forward of the mast. Daves estimate has to be pretty close. I'd say somewhere between 1" - 1-1/2" to allow for variety between the boats.

On step 5 - go easy with the knife. There are grooves around all our deck gear from someone going a little too heavy with the knife. Be sur eth eknife you have is sharp, and don't press harder than is needed or you will be removing gel coat.
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JohnP
Master Marine Consultant

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1520 Posts
Response Posted - 05/04/2009 :  11:31:11  Show Profile
Dave nailed it - the procedure!

I've just graduated to the double drilling method with 3 caulking materials. It works.
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Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts
Response Posted - 05/04/2009 :  18:15:50  Show Profile
I bought 2" bolts and cut them off just below the nut.
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.