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I thought there'd been a thread on this in the past, but couldn't find it. Has anyone out there remove thier stern rail? I know there's many an argument for compromising safety in the cockpit, but aside from that, the only thing my rail is good for is holding the bbq, getting in the way of the outboard controls, and making it virtually impossible to climb from the swim ladder over the top of it. Thoughts or experience?
1983 C25 FK/SR Finistere Garner Olympia WA ~/)~ ~~~
I cut the center section out, between the stanchions, for easier access from astern in a weird slip. That probably weakened it a little--I considered having a piece welded across just above the traveler (making it similar to the '89-91 model), but never felt it was critical. I got caps in the bimini hardware section of some store... I did leave a small extension where the stern light is attached--you can sorta see it here:
So the ladder still had something to fold up against, but it was easy to step around to or from it, and the motor was easier to access.
It worked great -- it provided plenty of backrest support. It was easy to come across the transom. Unfortunately, last fall, we had a strong nor'easter with 50-60 kt winds. Sometime during the night, the wind caused the boat to heel way over, and apparently, the port side stern rail got caught under the slip. Once the wind cut back, the righting force of the boat yanked the rail on a permanent 30 degree bend. Surprisingly, the bolts held it in place but the 1" tube was no match for an 1800 pound keel.
I plan on replacing the complete stern rail including the cross member, mainly because I don't need to enter the boat across the stern.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by millermg</i> <br />I know there's many an argument for compromising safety in the cockpit, but aside from that, the only thing my rail is good for is holding the bbq, getting in the way of the outboard controls, and making it virtually impossible to climb from the swim ladder over the top of it. Thoughts or experience?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
My swim ladder gets a lot of use and the stern rail is an integral part of the boarding process. As we are climbing up, both the stanchion and the horizontal top rail are used as handholds. Without a stern rail, I'm having a hard time envisioning climbing up the ladder, soaking wet, while the boat is pitching and rolling, with nothing to grab onto but fiberglass and the backstay.
Furthermore, I wouldn't remove the center section as Dave did, since it will weaken the entire rail. Due to the height of my dock, I sometime use the stern rail as a step (at the top of the forward stanchion) and it flexes slighting when I'm boarding. With the center removed, the reduced rigidity might cause it to bend or I might really put kink in it when I'm pulling my 190lb carcass up the boarding ladder.
Good point about climbing aboard... and I can't argue about weakening it--at least somewhat, but I doubt you could bend it, Don. Your 190 lbs. is less than a tenth of what Bruce put it through. That 1" stainless tubing is pretty tough stuff--I think about the only damage you could do would be to break the bedding seal at a stanchion base, which indeed would be more likely with the split rail. That could be mitigated by welding in a lower bar, which I would have done if I were using the top of the rail as a step. (Yikes!)
We had the same issue, and didn't even have a ladder. We bought a hanging ladder and started using it from the stern. Not such a good idea, so we moved the hanging ladder to the side of the boat. Keep the pulpit and use the side of the boat for getting up from the water. Some of those ladders have connectors that bolt or screw to the deck for rigidity - they're much better than just a "floating" ladder. If you raft up the side ladder doesn't work, but it's much better than having to crawl over the pulpit. If you must, the backstay is a great handhold.
Edited by - Stu Jackson C34 on 05/01/2009 08:57:40
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Stu Jackson C34</i> <br />If you must, the backstay is a great handhold.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
A handhold? Yes, but I'm not so sure I'd classify it as "great".
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dave Bristle</i> <br />That could be mitigated by welding in a lower bar, which I would have done if I were using the top of the rail as a step. (Yikes!)<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Yikes is right. Here the dock is even with the top of the bimini.
Good grief!! You Great Lakes people need to learn about floating docks! Where I used to live (90 miles from here) the tide rose and fell 6-1/2 to 9 feet (depending on the moon) twice every day. Here it's more like 2-1/2 to 3'.
WOW! wouldn't want to over shoot the docking, Kiss the forstay and R/F good bye! But does seem to have an advantage when the anchor light needs changing, just reach up and.....
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.