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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I did a search on this and couldn't find any information. I was pulling my Catalina 250 WB, out of the water and eventhough I did it the ussual way, I partially pullded the bow eye. It is the same ramp I always use, I only winch the boat the last 3 feet and the trailer is almost all submerged. It is about 1/2 inch pulled. Has anyone had that problem? I haven't had a chance to look and see if there is access to the back of the eye. Any ideas on how to fix the problem? Thanks for your responses.
In my case I winch (the last 3 feet) the boat all the way while it's still floating, no friction and no strain on the winch. Really all I'm winching for is to bring the boat on top of the front roller. Are you saying that you are dragging the boat on the pads somewhat (dry)? If so, you are pulling 5000 lbs (WB full). Maybe you should backup more if you can?
Is the fiberglass damaged? From your description it almost sounds like the threads got ripped off the bow eye bolt. If that is the case you are fortunate. I have not looked at that area but the inspection port of the anchor locker should give you access to it. If not then perhaps the inspection port at the front of the V-berth.
Let us know how it goes. I am quite certain that you are not the only person who has ever really cranked on the bow eye.
We pulled our Wing Keel yesterday to prepare for a cruise. I didn't like the positioning on the trailer (too far forward) and used a come-along around the keel to pull it back. We do strap launches and retrievals and this time we needed 75' of strap because the lake water is low!
The fiberglass was not damaged, only the threads on the eye show about 1/2/ i still have to see what happened inside. What I do is I partially get the boat on the trailer and winch in the last few feet. I cannot go any further back because the ramp ends and the tires would fall off. It depends on the tides, sometimes I can float it in sometimes I have to winch in a few feet. I think that even if I have to winch in, the eye should not come out. i will keep you posted with what I find and do. On the meantime, if anyone has ideas or information that can help me, please post your information. Thanks!
Well, I heard of people putting rollers instead of the 2 long wooden bunks. Another trick is to put dishwashing soap on the bunks. Also Paul (BritInUSA) blows out his ballast before pulling out by putting in some type of 12V blower in the air vent tube (anchor locker), this would save 1500 lbs and float the boat more. Search the forum on how Paul does it.
If the ballast blowing idea doesn't appeal to you another way would be to leave the boat 3' away, pull it out a little so you can drain your ballast, then backup-refloat and winch it in.
Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 08/20/2007 18:57:59
Thanks for the input. I have heard about people using the rechargable air pump Walmart sells. The dishwashing soap seems like a easy, slippery solution.
(name unknown) Yes, we do blow the ballast sometimes, not recently as we have been able to get the boat far enough forwards by lowering the bow bunk before backing the empty trailer into the water. Method: Back trailer down the ramp and stop before getting wet. Use the wheel wrench to loosen the two bolts holding the bow bunk and let it drop onto the extending tongue tube. Back into the water and retrieve.
We don't drop the bunk prior to being at the ramp incase we need to use the extension. With the extension out, the bunk tube might hit the ramp crown.
ps. We're taking the boat out this weekend to see if my repairs so far are ok. Mo later.
Raul, a $20 (2005) air pump from wallysmart. It is a rechargable unit and we use it to inflate the dink too. It takes quite a while to blow the ballast, not too much pressure. We just open the ballast valve, remove the bung in the anchor locker air vent and hold the air pump in place by hand, it's not even a good air tight fit and takes about 10-15 mins to empty the tank.
Thanks Paul, I will try that. I was able to take a look at the back side of the bow eye. There is a small wood piece, 1 1/2" by 6" that is used as a backing plate. The nuts and oblong washer split the wood and went through it. Now I have to remove the nuts, wood and replace it with a larger piece. After that I will put stainless backing plate so it distributes the load better. Any better ideas?
As much as I like Stainless Steel I think I would replace the components exactly as they were without a metal backing plate. You don't want the fiberglass to become the weak link. Sounds to me like the setup broke where it was supposed to. I would not mess with it.
Sean, I use a bar of soap. I try to wet the pads first some how, water hose at the ramp, bucket or back the trailer down in the water pull up then rub the soap bar on the pads.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.