Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
OK. The ballast tank seems to be almost if not completely fixed. Getting a tiny amount of water in the ballast after four weeks on a mooring.
New problem: The centerboard haul is now completely loose. I suspect it's just come off its attachment from the centerboard. Any reason I can't beach the boat and roll it over to inspect? It's on a mooring in a bay with convenient sandy shallows, and getting it to a marina to lift it out is a 7 mile trip (and money for the liftout).
Phil, there are several reasons that the swing keel haul is completely loose. a) The board is up (sounds crazy, but true) b) the haul has disconnected from either the keel as you described, it is only a knot. But the haul has vectran line from the center keel should be attatched to the lower end of the block and tackle after of the step. ie. look and see if the you can see the vectran line coming out of the keel tube aft of the steps.
I guess there could be a c) that the top of the block and tackle is disconnected from the ss strap under the cabin entrance.
The manual shows it pretty clear.
Personally I would not beach our boat, in my mind it is the equivalant of sanding the side of the hull where it touches the beach. You would be better off donning a mask and fins and taking a dip (assuming you are fit enough). Is there clear water near by?
I suppose you could lay a tarp out and roll her onto it, to prevent "sanding"... You'll want to blow at least half the water out of the ballast tank--the other half might actually help you roll her. (The same principal works when sailing--a partially-filled tank will actually destabilize the boat.) I don't know how much pull you'll need... If you're in a tidal area (you don't mention your location), you could bring her to the beach at high tide, let the tide run out, do your stuff, and then wait for it to come back in--I've done that (with a smaller boat).
Pretty sure it's come off the board. With the line pulled all the way to where the block in the cabin is tight, the cable is completely loose. I've been afraid to pull the cable out more for fear of not being able to feed it back in to the tube.
The Great South Bay is the tidal bay south of Long Island and north of Fire Island. I'm in a small natural harbor on Fire Island (hence the lack of marinas, ramps, etc).
Blowing the tank, using a tarp, and the tide sound like a good approach. I'm going to bring out my snorkelmask next weekend as well, but the visibility's usually pretty awful. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Taking a look at things underneath can be done in ABOUT 6-61/2 feet of water, been there and used mask with snorkel and frogs feet to take a look at cable attachment several years ago when I bought "Brandy". You just need enough depth for the board to hang freely and not scrub on the bottom. I moved the boat to a less traveled area and clearer water when I did this. Waves are a bummer. "Just My Two Cents Worth".
I'm thinking I only want to have to do this once. Any thoughts as to spare parts I might need? Is the cable attached to the centerboard? How is it attached?
On our 2005 model, the attachment to the keel is via flat shackle that attaches to a strap set into the rear of the keel edge. then the 5mm V-12 vectran line is secured to the shackle by a bowline. The shackle is secured to the inset strap by a 1/4" dia clevis pin. The vectran line should be 11' 0" long.
I looked at ours when I did my keel fix last year, and the bowline on the shackle was covered with a piece of heat shrink (you're not gonna do that under water )
If you do lean the boat, I hope you take a ton of pics!
I have to agree with Bear on this one...if everything is rigged properly in the cabin put the old snorkel on and anchor in about 5' of water. Its nice to be able to stand up to catch your breath throughout the process. I had to do this two weeks ago when my line snapped at the knot where it attaches to the board. It took me about a half an hour but I actually think having done it once I could do it in 15 minutes now. I also bought a spare Vectran line and keep it on board now for just such emergencies. Make sure you wear an old Tee shirt so you aren't covered with bottom paint when you finish!
Great tips on the mask, fins, and old t-shirt. Went diving today! One tip for anyone else who tries this - much easier at 5pm when the sun was shining under the boat!
I found the shackle which was intact on the centerboard, and the end of the wire cable.
The end of the cable had pulled out of the little "two-hole metal block" (seemingly this is called a swage) that was holding it in a loop.
I guess I can just get some kind of device to replace the swage or a screw on "mechanical" thing for the end of the wire.
Alternatively I could replace the wire with the vectran line - but it seems like it goes through a pretty small opening in the hull. How would I thread it through?
Phil, I replaced mine with Vectran. Actually that is what Catalina will send you if you call them and they send you the "retrofit kit". When I did that it was free. It involves changing out a block (that they include) at the top of the cabin interior and replacing the wire with vectran...very easy. Mine threaded right down through the rubber tube that extends up into the cabin from the floor and then came out of the hole under the boat, Piece of cake! Good luck, Willy
Thanks Willy I called Catalina today and they're sending it. Do you think it will thread through IN the water? I don't have trailer/lift facilities that are easy to get to.
I think I would cut the cable as high as possible in the cabin then butt end the two with about six wraps of electrical tape on each side and pull it through from the bottom as someone keeps slight tension in the cabin. Not owning a WB and not knowing your exact conditions; I can't say for sure, but I think it should work.
Phil, It <i><b>SHOULD</b></i> thread right through...mine did. Although if I had the option, I would use the Frogsters technique of splicing it to the current cable and pulling her through that way. Could save you some difficulty. Willy
Catalina were great and sent the vectran and block kit out to me within a week.
Got my snorkel mask and an old shirt and went for a swim. The trick of splicing with electrical tape worked perfectly. Required a little tug to pull through but then went easily. Inserting a splitring underwater was a challenge but I managed it on the third try. A weight belt probably would have helped as I could have stood or kneeled on the bottom and not had to be bumping up against the hull. Again, using the 5pm evening light to improve visibility was a definite advantage. Also a moderate current helped as it was washing away the silt that I was stirring up.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.