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Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts
Response Posted - 06/13/2007 :  23:27:31  Show Profile  Visit Steve Blackburn's Homepage
I measured the angle of the motor and it seems to be 38 degrees roughly. The ball joints listed above are limited to about 30 or 35 degrees. Ideally I would need a 45 degree inline joint. Even a regular socket joint would do.

I'll post pictures of what I'm thinking later this week.

Below is the type of joint I'm looking for, but this one is limited to 30 degrees:



http://www.midwestcontrol.com/catdisplay_short.php?pg=121

I'm having difficulties finding a joint that will move 45 degrees. I wonder if you guys have any ideas on where I could find these?
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Bob Jack
1st Mate

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USA
58 Posts
Response Posted - 06/14/2007 :  07:23:09  Show Profile
Finally....I figured out how to put a picture in the message...(The directions from the testing forum were great, it was my execution that was lacking)
This is Arlyn's Soft Link on a Tohatsu 9.8 in the straight running position. The rubber bungy on the starboard side is 21 inches long and provides perfect tension when attached to the rear cleat. I drilled a hole in each side of the shelf that runs just below the cowling and simply hooked the bungy through the outside one. Ran the fixed line through the other hole with a stopper knot and put a spring snap on the other end. Simply unhook the snap and move it up to the tiller extension when approaching the dock. Works like a champ.No worries mate
.
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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts
Response Posted - 06/14/2007 :  10:25:53  Show Profile
Bob, great photo, a picture is worth a 1,000 words. Thanks. Three questions. Is that an extra loop of line at the rudder that your spring clamp attaches to while the setup is not in operation? Is the wood extension working out? Does the attachment point for the line on the wood extension match the distance from the transom as the OB attachment point? In other words is the line, when attached to the wood, parallel to the transom?

OK, a third question. Did you get the Tohatsu Ultra-Short-Shaft? Shouldn't the prop be underwater?
Edited by - Nautiduck on 06/14/2007 10:27:57
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Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts
Response Posted - 06/14/2007 :  13:28:48  Show Profile  Visit Steve Blackburn's Homepage
As with Randy I see that both the prop and rudder arn't touching the water. I guess this soft link arrangement is so good that it makes your boat fly.

Seriously, I think I'm gonna give in and go with the soft link too. At least until I find my ball or socket joints. Instead of wood, I think I'm gonna go with an aluminum angle bar.
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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts
Response Posted - 06/14/2007 :  14:16:21  Show Profile
Steve, I was counting on you to develop the Stainless Steel version. Oh well, at least make the rudder extension out of Stainless!!

I'm still not seeing how this helps when I need to be sitting on the fuel locker with one hand on the OB dealing with speed and F/R. Looks to me like the optimum solution is a wheel-to-OB link AND moving the gear and throttle controls to the wheel pedestal. Has anyone done that and can post photos and part #s?

By the way I measured my Honda yesterday and it turns out I have the 2000 XLS 28" shaft version. I've decided to keep it so investng in pedestal controls would be allowed by the Admiral.
Edited by - Nautiduck on 06/14/2007 14:17:50
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britinusa
Web Editor

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USA
5404 Posts
Response Posted - 06/14/2007 :  15:14:48  Show Profile  Visit britinusa's Homepage
Tom told me about a guy that had put a tube on the gear change lever (pvc pipe with an elbow and extension) that faclitated changing gear without bending down the the engine.

Peggy then suggested a tub on the throttle arm too.

I'll give it a go and post pics

paul
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Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1181 Posts
Response Posted - 06/14/2007 :  17:24:32  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Instead of wood, I think I'm gonna go with an aluminum angle bar.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Steve,
One thing to consider is if you hit something with the wooden extension the wood will probably break, being the softer of the materials. If you make it out of aluminum or stainless steel you may well damage your pintle, gudgeon or rudder. Better to keep it as the weak link since it is the least necessary component and the easiest replaced.
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Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts
Response Posted - 06/14/2007 :  18:00:52  Show Profile  Visit Steve Blackburn's Homepage
Good advice sloop.

The best arrangement in my opinion is wheel steering with the throttle/shifter control on the pedestal.



In my long list of upcoming upgrades I have:
- Wheel Steering
- GPS chartplotter
- Autopilot connected to GPS chartplotter
- Throttle and shifter controls on pedestal

Hmmm after about $3500-$4000 I should be good. :-)

Oh and Jay, I haven't given up on my Stainless Quick Disconnect Hard Link just yet (but I have to find 45 degree joints).
Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 06/14/2007 18:02:38
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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts
Response Posted - 06/15/2007 :  17:20:20  Show Profile
Here is an Edson product that will work with OBs. Edson verified that it will work with my Honda. There is also a single lever control system that would be even nicer but it is over $800.

This system, coupled with a soft or hard link would seem to provide complete steering and engine control while standing at the wheel. See any flaws in this concept??

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C311&id=827195
Edited by - Nautiduck on 06/15/2007 17:22:53
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John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts
Response Posted - 06/15/2007 :  17:37:13  Show Profile
I saw a motor control device that attaches to a tiller. I think that would solve a lot of the problem for me.

With the motor on the mount and not the transom, my limited experience has been that with the motor amidship, I'm able to steer into my <s>dock</s> I mean slip without much trouble. When I'm trying to steer the motor, adjust throttle and transmission is when I get myself into trouble and find the dock.

Whadya think??

http://www.powertiller.net/Demonstration.htm
Edited by - John Russell on 06/15/2007 17:42:04
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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts
Response Posted - 06/15/2007 :  17:51:01  Show Profile
John, that is an intriguing setup. Looks like a good solution for boats with tillers. Really the same concept as the Edson pedestal controls but reformatted to go on a tiller. I like it.
Edited by - Nautiduck on 06/15/2007 17:56:32
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Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts
Response Posted - 06/15/2007 :  23:47:09  Show Profile  Visit Steve Blackburn's Homepage
Randy, this is exactly what I'm looking for and will install this when I put on the wheel. $800 for the single lever version? At that price it better be made of some special alien composite material. I think many marine products just go way overboard with prices sometimes.
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jlannutti
Navigator

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USA
102 Posts
Response Posted - 06/16/2007 :  06:55:59  Show Profile
At least for now I'm going to give the soft-link a shot. Thanks Arlyn and Bob Jack for the info and pictures. Bob Jack, in your picture, was the wood piece you used teak or spruce? Do you recall the dimensions (1x1, 2x1, etc) or the length.
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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts
Response Posted - 06/16/2007 :  10:28:57  Show Profile
Steve, the price on the single lever control includes a whole pedestal guard setup as well. I have asked Edson if it is possible just to purchase the control unit and mount it on my existing guard. I have a feeling the answer will be "no" but we'll see. The price of the dual lever system seems pretty reasonable to me. Defender.com has it for $280.
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
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