Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Well, she's ready and in the water on the mooring. Today is going to be about 65 and sunny with winds at 10 knots. Should make for a fitting "first sail". This year I added new lazy jacks to the mast. I had to bring the mast down off the deck and set it up with the boom to fit the lazy jack to the whole thing. It's a lot of work getting the mast on and off the boat. I have a pulley system in my pole barn I hook up both ends of the mast and swing it over the side and lower. How do most of you guys do it? The mast is heavy, awkward, and those spreaders need to be covered or they will scratch the hull as it comes down. My wife and I tried to get the mast back to the top of the deck by hand - no way! Back to the pole barn and the pulleys.
On another note, The LED anchor light I added some weeks ago is a WINNER! It is brighter than I ever imagined! It uses about 1/10 the amp hours as the original festoon bulb. (see the previous thread.) I am still in the process of receiving some new inverted cone LEDs for the retrofit on the nav bow light and the transom white light. I did run across some new festoon bulbs that also look promising although it would take 2 instead of the original one for the nav lights and require a bit of rewire to mount them in the nav light fixtures (Hellamarine). Why am I going through this trouble? Because the price of LED marine lights are outrageous compared to the several dollars in parts they use. Stay tuned.
Well, "Forgiveness" is waiting. I've waited all winter!
We have never taken the mast off any boat so I can't help you there. I can share in a bit of success with our boat though. Yesterday I succesfully snaked the VHF coax from the mast step area in the cabin to the starboard trim just under the portlights. Now the VHF coax goes all the way to the radio, by the breaker panel, completely hidden from view.
I am going to follow you lead on the LED for the anchor light. Thanks for doing the work on it!
Turk did you replace your whole masthead unit or just a different socket. My 95 250WB has a festoon bulb and the ones that the forum were talking about were a twist in bulb. I would like to change the masthead for a led too.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Second Wind53</i> <br />Turk did you replace your whole masthead unit or just a different socket. My 95 250WB has a festoon bulb and the ones that the forum were talking about were a twist in bulb. I would like to change the masthead for a led too.
Peter <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I replaced the anchor light (top of mast) with the bulb from ebay. It is a bayonet bulb with the little nibs directly across from each other rather than staggered. The mast head or steaming light (half way up) is a festoon 1 1/4" 10 watt and a downward facing deck light (looks like halogen). I would be surprised if your anchor light is a festoon as the fixture would block some of the light. If you do have a festoon for your anchor light, I think you would have to change the base out as the LED festoons are typically very directional and would not work. You would need about 5-6 festoons to get 360 degrees. If your talking about the steaming light, there are some new high powered LEDs that shoot out 120-140 degrees and are quite bright. I am going to try one of these for the steaming light.
Just for reference, my fixtures are all Hellamarine. Also, the bow nav light and rear white transom light are both festoon 10 watt. I am working on replacing these now.
The light above required filing off the 4 bulbs on the top. Not a big deal, just clean up what's left so it doesn't short on itself.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Nautiduck</i> <br />Congratulations! How is your hand doing?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Nautiduck</i> <br />Turk, my LEDs have arrived. You mentioned in one post about polarity. Did you have to change your wires to the masthead fixture for the LED? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
No, the anchor light was wired correctly. If it does not light, you will have to switch them. These bulbs may have circuitry that does not require worrying about the polarity. If these have it - yer good. If they don't - you have a 50/50 chance they'll light.
Sounds like you ordered 2. Where are you putting the other? My boat has no other fixture like these.
Turn the other one into a cabin light. I used a small plastic bowel inverted, sprayed white inside with the bulb mounded in the bottom (flipped it becomes the top). I put it on a long cord and it can hang anywhere inside or brought up to the cockpit and hung off the boom.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by frog0911</i> <br />Turk, like that idea. Were did you get the socket for the extra blub? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
You can buy that socket almost anywhere on the net as it is a common automobile socket 1156. Google "1156 socket" and look out!
Turk, do you have a pic/sketch of where you cut off the top of the lamp fitting? My LED's arrived, I can see that the 4 LED's on the top are held in place with 4 legs each. Did you just cut the legs off or did you remove the top (disk and all) ???
And... Did you consider grinding off the lamp retaining pins on base so that the lamp could go deeper into the housing, possibly avoiding the need to cut the top off?
I snipped off the LED legs with tiny wire cutters and then filed the top so that the metal contacts are all flush. I think I will smear some silcon on the top just so any condensation wont cause trouble. The snipping and filing took 10 minutes and was easy. I have small tools from my model railroad hobby. You don't need those top LEDs anyway since they would shine up, not out.
Just tried the install of the new LED, surprise! It fits! When I twisted the transparent cap back on the whole fitting, I noticed that it pushed the lamp in. Took it off again and found the lamp is pushed upwards by the center spring connector, so I just tried the cap on again and same thing: the lamp just nuzzled down into the fitting. It's obviously pressing p against the cap, but the cap went on securely. I'll be raising the mast in the driveway this weekend to see if the lamp works ok.
Can you see any problems with installing it this way? Does the lamp produce enough heat to damage the cap that it is in contact with? (I'm pretty sure the lamp runs pretty cool, but ya-never-know!
There is no heat at all from the LEDs. So I wouldn't worry. The instructions above are exactly what I did, just cut each leed and file a bit just to take the sharpness away so it will not interfere with putting on the clear cap. Did everyone get it to light the first time? If not, your have to change polarity (reverse the wires).
I just received the inverted cone LED's today. Reds and Greens. Looking to build a little breadboard to mount 3 reds and 3 greens for the bow nav light. These little guys are supposed to be extremely bright and give off a full 360 pattern. Stay tuned.
Yep, lit the first time. I've been lurking on this thread, but bought the LED light you suggested, clipped off the top chips, and plugged it in last weekend. It worked fine, even at 35F.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.