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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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bright work before or after?

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dmattlin
1st Mate

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USA
39 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/25/2007 : 23:19:51

I am considering replacing all the wood on my C25. This should be a good weekend project. I am most concerned with replacing the hand rails.
In the past I have used wood cleaner, bleach and oil on my teak but I thought I would go another route. I want to use the marine grade varnish on all the wood (SeaTol?). Should I finish the hand rails first then intall them, or install them first and finish them after the wood has been contured to fit the cabin.

I am worried that if I finish the wood first and let it set up for several days, when I try and install the hand rails on top of the cabin the finish may crack. Or should I even be worried about this?

Dave

84 C25, Tall rig
"Sea Fever"
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/mai_taim/

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 02/26/2007 : 00:41:50

Cetol hardens very slowly. It remains flexible long after it's dry enough to handle and install. By all means, do your brightwork finishing before it's installed whenever possible.

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 02/26/2007 : 08:41:28

Dave,

Before you replace any of the existing teak, try to bring them back to life. When I bought my boat the teak looked like old barn wood, but after a few passes with an orbital sander the teak looked showroom new.

Edited by - on

djn
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1561 Posts

Response Posted - 02/26/2007 : 09:25:47

Hi Dave, I think it is better to take it off so you can do a good job on the underbelly as well, also, then you will have to rebed everything and that is alway a good thing to do. Cheers.

Edited by - on

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 02/26/2007 : 14:42:34

One of the best things about the C250 is that there is NO TEAK!!

Sorry, couldn't help it.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 02/26/2007 : 14:46:56

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Nautiduck
 One of the best things about the C250 is that there is NO TEAK!! <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

My bottle of chlorox is also teak free!

Edited by - on

mhartong
Navigator

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USA
152 Posts

Response Posted - 02/26/2007 : 14:53:19

But can your clorox bottle sail?

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 02/26/2007 : 15:14:24

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by mhartong
 But can your clorox bottle sail?

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Probably as well as yours!

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 02/26/2007 : 16:54:58

Teak is what makes it a boat. Sorry Randy

but I love teak.
I'm always looking for a Cheoy Lee. Talk about teak

Anyway Dave, finish your teak with varnish first, then install it. Then next year take it off and finish it again. Then repeat every year after that.
Dan

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 02/26/2007 : 18:13:15

Before or after?

Definitely work on the teak After going to the bar. Teak defitely looks better with Rum Stains on it as well.

About 3 years ago we took all the exterior teak off the boat, cleaned it with teak cleaner, sanded it and gave it 2 or 3 coats of cetol. Everything was easy to handle in the basement workshop. The wood stayed off for the entire winter and we had no problems putting everything back on.

The only mistake I made was using Cetol. Another boat put on the same number of coats of Waterlox and it still looks like they put it on yesterday. The cetol seems to have gotten more orange over time.

Edited by - on

crcalhoon
Captain

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USA
303 Posts

Response Posted - 02/26/2007 : 20:12:37

Oil. Oil good. Put on good one time. Every two or three months splash on more oil. Takes 10-15 minutes to re-oil. Often when sitting on boat daydreaming, take out oil and splash some on. Once you get in the habit it gets pretty esy. Did I really start that again?

Edited by - on

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 02/26/2007 : 21:41:23

This is one of the great things about sailing. Some people love to sail and others love to take care of teak. There is something for everyone!

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2007 : 10:02:20

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Nautiduck
 Some people love to sail and others love to take care of teak. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Spoken like a true powerboater!

Edited by - on

glivs
Admiral

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USA
836 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2007 : 07:08:09

Duane,
I too considered using Waterlox but my experience (1 boat in my storage yard) was that it really darkened the teak, almost like a walnut stain. Thoughts???

Edited by - on

crcalhoon
Captain

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USA
303 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2007 : 21:03:07

I don't know about Waterlux. From my old sailing days I recall that we all loved Deks Olje (sp?) but it darkened the wood so much that everybody I knew quit using it. But for ease of application and durability it was great.

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2007 : 06:50:12

As far as darkening, all of the products, including oil darken the wood. It just becomes a relative factor of the degree that it is darkened. Personally I don’t think that Waterlox darkens the wood any more than standard jug of teak oil. The finish is definitely not orange and in my opinion has a great look. You can’t beat the ease of application and reapplication either.

http://www.waterlox.com/site/559/default.aspx

Unfortunately, the website doesn’t have any boats in the showcase and the inside photos on this link don’t do any justice to the product. Deks Olje seems to darken the wood a bit more than the Waterlox marine, but not by much (I can only go by the pics I’ve seen)

dw

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2007 : 06:52:39

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dlucier
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Nautiduck
 Some people love to sail and others love to take care of teak. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Spoken like a true powerboater!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I couldn't disagree more. Sailors Sail. Carpenters take care of wood.

Edited by - Champipple on 03/01/2007 06:52:53

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2007 : 07:38:50

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by crcalhoon
 I don't know about Waterlux. From my old sailing days I recall that we all loved Deks Olje (sp?) but it darkened the wood so much that everybody I knew quit using it. But for ease of application and durability it was great.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
It had a "special" smell too!

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2007 : 08:05:05

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Duane Wolff
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dlucier
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Nautiduck
 Some people love to sail and others love to take care of teak. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Spoken like a true powerboater!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I couldn't disagree more. Sailors Sail. Carpenters take care of wood.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Huh?

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5895 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2007 : 10:15:07

If you want to keep your teak beautiful, and reduce the refinishing chores to a minimum, make sunbrella covers for it. I made covers for the grab rails and the hatchboards, which are the most difficult pieces to refinish. It just takes a minute to put them all on when you leave the boat, and they protect the teak from the sun and rain.

They're very easy to make. The grab rail covers are just long strips, folded over and sewn shut at the ends, with a 1 1/2" piece of Velcro between each loop. The main hatch cover snaps onto the same snaps that are used for the pop top enclosure.

I made them for my boat and a friend's boat, and the Velcro held them in place through last year's 63 kt winds.

Edited by - on

dmattlin
1st Mate

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USA
39 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2007 : 11:17:47

Thanks for all the answers guys...
Duane.. I especially like your method. I agree, Rum stains might give it that special look.

D

Edited by - on

Stardog
Captain

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USA
319 Posts

Response Posted - 06/19/2008 : 11:19:23

I'm wondering about the WM varnishes, has anyone used those? They have one in particular that is supposed to be very good for UV resistance, it's called Z-Spar Flagship Varnish. Their website says "Additives: Highest UV protection available ". I'm getting ready to do my teak, I have some of it off already. I'm thinking teak cleaner might be nice too, as I've always just sanded and this step takes significant time.

Edited by - on

frankr
Captain

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256 Posts

Response Posted - 06/19/2008 : 11:38:10

I refinished my cockpit cubby hole teak outlines (C36) last year with MinWax's Helmsman Spar Urethane (Epoxied first to seak everything, then 5 coats of urethane). They still look as good as the day I reinstalled them. This is the same urethane I use on my wood kayaks and sailing dingy I built.

Edited by - on

Stardog
Captain

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USA
319 Posts

Response Posted - 06/19/2008 : 12:05:37

I used the Helmsman spar varnish for years, that's what's on there now, though there isn't much left. I've found it burns off too quickly for my liking- I have to paint it on several times a year and annually I have to strip and redo. Maybe it's a pipe dream, but I would like to have something more durable. I was hoping the WM product or Cetol would hold up better.

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4303 Posts

Response Posted - 06/19/2008 : 12:23:10

Stardog,

The teak on my boat was done about 1 1/2 years ago using Cetol and it looks as good as it did in October when I bought the boat. While it does have a very slight orangish look to it I don't think it's that noticable when you walk by the boat. For one thing, in my marina most people don't do anything with there teak so anything looks better.

I'm not sure which "flavor" of Cetol the PO used when he did the teak but I believe you can get it in various shades. I'd make sure you get clear if it's available

Edited by - on

aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 06/19/2008 : 12:40:37

Cetol marine only comes in one color. It does however come in gloss or satin.

Edited by - on

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