Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'd like to properly tension my forestay. I have been using a Loos Gauge but the CDI furler prevents attachement to the stay. Any suggestions on proper technique?
The forestay tension is in direct relationship with the shrouds. If the shrouds are tensioned properly, then the forestay is as well.
At first thought, this may not seem true and that the forestay is in relationship to the backstay. The reasoning here is that the shrouds are aft of the mast center line and their tension is opposed by the forestay. The masthead position is adjusted not by the forestay and backstay but rather by the forestay and shrouds.
Tensioning the shrouds has the effect of firming both the shrouds and forestay while moving the masthead aft. Tensioning the forestay also tightens the shrouds but moves the masthead forward. The masthead position as well as the rig tension is set by the relationship of shroud and forestay adjustment.
The backstay on the modified B&R rig of the 250 should be thought of as redundant and not involved in the rig tension settup or masthead placement. It should be adjusted last with just enough tension to keep clear of the sail roach. Too much tension on the backstay unloads the tension balance between the forestay and shrouds leaving the shrouds to slacken and is not wanted because the raked spreaders depend upon proper shroud tension.
I once read an article which expressed the opinion that over-tensioning the backstay and forstay causes excessive stress on the keel by pulling the stern and bow upward and bending the boat. The result was demonstrated in one of the Americas Cup preliminary races when a New Zealand (?) entry folded in on itself. Although much of the fault lay with the reputed fragility of Ameicas Cup racing hulls, the result is the same, it broke in half. This is not to say that it could happen to a 250 or a C25, but....... given the right set of circumstances, could it?
In my opinion, it is more important to ensure the mast is plumb athwartships, and is slightly raked fore and aft. To that end, I generally tension shrouds and stays equally about two full turns past hand-tightened once I have gotten the mast where I want it. I began doing this a few years ago when excessive stress cracks, from over-tensioning, began to appear at the cabin-deck joint adjacent to the shroud chain plates on my C25. My rig is probably more loose then most owner's, but the cracks have not gotten worse, the boat doesn't seem to handle any differently,and I have some peace of mind.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.