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Solar vent

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najewicz
Deckhand

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USA
14 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/13/2002 : 21:44:54

I have purchased a solar vent for my 82 C-25, and have been debating for some time where to install it. My choices are in the forward hatch or on the cabin roof just forward of the mast. There is just "something" about drilling a big hole in either place that bothers me. I am leaning towards the cabin top location, since I am concerned that if I put the vent on the hatch cover it will catch on the jib lines as I tack ( just as sailing with the hatch open is an invitation to a stuck jib line).

Has anyon ehad any experience with either location? I wonder how thic the cabin top is in the area just ahead of the mast? Any thoughts on which would be a better location would be greatly appreciated.

Dave Najewicz
'82 c-25 SR/SK

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 06/13/2002 : 21:58:31

I'll be watching the replies, too... However, I'm not sure the hatch location would be more of an obstruction than the cabin top--the jib sheets are more likely to be dragging around the mast than around the front of the cabin trunk. An advantage of the hatch is that replacing it would be a lot easier than patching up the coachroof. But I'm leaning toward putting it roughly over the head. I'm holding off until I've installed the deck organizers for leading lines back to the cockpit.

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT

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cat30
1st Mate

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73 Posts

Response Posted - 06/14/2002 : 08:54:03

I installed a solar vent in the hatch of both my cat25 and cat30. the jib sheets hardly ever got hung up on the vent. and since i never stand on the hatch i will never stand on the vent.

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 06/14/2002 : 09:16:39

Mine is dead center between the two bulkheads that enclose the head. No issues in 5 seasons. BTW, Nicro wouldn't sell just a replacement motor so I installed a manual vent.
Buy lots of cutting blades and have someone hold a box under the hole to catch the dust <img src=icon_smile_dead.gif border=0 align=middle> !

Edited by - on

tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 06/14/2002 : 09:23:01

Mornin Dave,

We've kicked this topic around previously and if I remember correctly(yeah sure)the area over the head seemed to make most sense for most people. I've had a solar vent there 11 years, never snagged a sheet on it, stepped on it occasionally without problem. One fellow mentioned his preference for sitting with back against the mast and not being able to do so with a vent forward of the mast. He put his vent on the hatch.
Val on "CALISTA" #3936
Tall/Wing Patchogue N.Y.

Val Bisagni

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nate
Navigator

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240 Posts

Response Posted - 06/14/2002 : 12:26:54

As long as we are discussing solar vent I have a question...I have one mounted on the cabin-top over the head area. The thing has not worked since I've owned the boat. I assumed, incorrectly I guess, that by adding some sunshine the thing would work...is there something I'm missing....do they have a internal motor that burns out? I've tried to remove the whole unit but have been unable to get it out of the hole for fear of breaking the plasic casing. Ideas???
Thanks-Nate

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 06/14/2002 : 13:07:48

Nate,
The motor on my Nicro solar vent stopped working (the solar panel was still putting out juice) and they wanted me to buy a whole new unit!
That's why I installed a screened, manual open/close vent.

Edited by - OJ on 06/14/2002 13:21:33

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tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 06/14/2002 : 16:04:40

Guys,

I have the same solar vent and when it stops working It's time to replace the inner battery. The battery that the unit requires is kinda pricy so I just toss in an energizer, "C", I think. If it happens on or near the time that SS checks are in the mail I might opt for a Ni-Cad. The thingy won't work without a battery or with a dead one.
Try it-- who knows!!!

Val Bisagni

Edited by - on

jtbarrett
1st Mate

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USA
60 Posts

Response Posted - 06/20/2002 : 20:34:42

On my catalina 25 tall/swing (1982)it is on the forward hatch..and seems to work pretty well there..

Fair Winds.. Jonathan Barrett
"Shaka Bra"
3047

Edited by - on

f_sondergaard
1st Mate

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USA
92 Posts

Response Posted - 06/21/2002 : 07:40:02

Ours is on the cabin roof, just forward of the mast. Nothing seems to get hung up here!
"GENTLE BREEZE"
'82-c-25 SR/SK

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cat30
1st Mate

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73 Posts

Response Posted - 06/21/2002 : 08:43:50

My solar vent won't work with a dead battery, but if you take the battery out it works.

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jm
Captain

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Canada
290 Posts

Response Posted - 06/21/2002 : 09:26:26

Ditto with mine - obviously the solar panel recharges and drives the motor during the day and the battery kicks in at night. I removed the battery and the motor/fan started up no problems. I just don't have a fan during the night..

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 06/21/2002 : 20:33:52

Sounds like we're talking about one of two possible problems:

1. NiCad batteries want to be fully discharged before they're recharged--if they aren't, their recharge capacity decreases. If the solar vent doesn't substantially discharge the battery each night, it will accept less charge each day, until it won't take any at all.

2. Perhaps the solar array doesn't have enough output to both charge the battery and run the fan, which means the battery will gradually run out and not come back.

Whichever the problem, the most important time for the fan to run is at night, as moist daytime air is cooling inside the boat. So I'll be interested in understanding this problem when I install my solar vent. If it only runs in sunshine, as far as I'm concerned, it's doing no good.

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT

Edited by - on

najewicz
Deckhand

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USA
14 Posts

Response Posted - 06/23/2002 : 22:47:48

Thanks for all of the comments. I decided to put my solar vent on the cabin top just forward of the mast.

It was pretty easy to install, the deck is a little over an inch thick, and I used a hole saw, and drilled from both the top and bottom. I installed it last week and the fan is running everytime I visit the boat, however the sun is also out when I visit the boat.

Thanks again,

Dave Najewicz
82 SR/SK hull 3084

Edited by - on

Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 06/23/2002 : 23:51:33

On the underside or inside of the fan isn't there a switch so you can turn the fan off if you dont want it to run???? What happens if you take the battery out ???? will it run without the battery ???? will it run on battery alone ???? How long will it run without sun ???? How long will it run if its on all the time ????

Doug&Ruth
Wind Lass
Tacoma Wa.

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 06/24/2002 : 12:55:46

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
It was pretty easy to install, the deck is a little over an inch thick, and I used a hole saw, and drilled from both the top and bottom. I installed it last week and the fan is running everytime I visit the boat, however the sun is also out when I visit the boat.

Dave Najewicz
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
Dave: I'd like to use a hole saw, but my Nicro 3000 vent calls for a 4-3/4" hole, and I can't find that exact size. What size did yours need, and what did you use?

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 06/24/2002 : 13:53:52

Dave Bristle,
Milwaukee makes a quality hole-saw. Their 4.75" model is pn 48-56-4750. Let us know if it has any teeth when you're done <img src=icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle> . It may be much cheaper to go with a 12-pak of sabre saw blades.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 06/24/2002 : 14:18:39

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Dave Bristle,
Milwaukee makes a quality hole-saw. Their 4.75" model is pn 48-56-4750. Let us know if it has any teeth when you're done <img src=icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle> . It may be much cheaper to go with a 12-pak of sabre saw blades.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
Roger on cheaper... At least one brand I saw was somewhere over half a boat unit. Home Dopey has them cheaper ($17) but only 4-1/4 and 5". I like a hole saw over a saber saw for the clean cut through fiberglass, and the precise perpendicular cut through thick material. I've found that the cheaper ones work fine if I can find the size--I'll research your idea.

Thanks...

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 06/24/2002 : 14:20:49

Another related question: What areas should I stay away from to avoid cutting the infamous molded-in mast light wires? I'm also interested in that issue for the holes I'm about to drill for deck organizers and stoppers.

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 06/24/2002 : 22:09:12

I didn't have any problem with wires dead center, port to starboard, fore to aft over the head compartment.

Steve Madsen
#2428
OJ (Ode to Joy)

Edited by - OJ on 06/25/2002 08:21:24

Edited by - on

Sabur
Deckhand

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8 Posts

Response Posted - 06/25/2002 : 00:19:56

I just bought a couple of hole saws from this site:

http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/a/ab/leno/holesaw.htm?E+coastest

I believe the 4 3/4 goes for $32.00 and the arbor for it runs $11.50. Hope this helps.

Mike Bur
Excalibur
#3959
1983 SR/FK

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 06/25/2002 : 08:28:25

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Home Dopey has them cheaper ($17) but only 4-1/4 and 5".
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Home Depot does a great job with special orders - also at a discount.
Home Dopey? Is that like CompUSless?

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 06/25/2002 : 11:07:15

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Home Dopey? Is that like CompUSless?
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
...or US Scareways, or Generous Motors,...

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette "Passage" in SW CT

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najewicz
Deckhand

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USA
14 Posts

Response Posted - 06/26/2002 : 01:27:44

In reply to some of the questions:

1) I bought the Nico 3000 it is relatively inexpensive ~100, there is no swith in it, and it seems to run all night, however since this has been about the longest days of the year recently ( Here in Louisville KY) I can't say how long it will run in the winter. If you take out the battery it stops for sure. Someone said it would run if you put a regular C battery in it. I believe it could be rewired to run only off off of the solar cells with no battery as well however, I agree that one of the major benefits is pulling in cool air during the evening.

2) regarding the hole saw I bout a "cheapie" for about $12. It had several sizes and an arbor. One size was perfect for the top vent ring, a good tight fit although I had to bevel the top edge to match the bevel on the top ring fitting. I only drilled half way through with the hole saw. I drilled up from the bottom with the a large one ( since the trim ring was bigger and would not fit in the smaller hole. Once I was sure the two holes were almost to the same point, I wacked the cabin top with a rubber mallet and it popped out.... I mounted the top ring using some boatlife silkaflex and came in from the bottom, filled up the annulus with more sikaflex and mounted the bottom trim ring ( afer I trimmed the overall lengh of the bottom trim ring to match the depth of the larger hole I drilled. Maybe a little bit complicated by it looks great, no leaks....
I cant remember the exact size of the hole saws. I do remember they were not exactly what NICO recommended, but I matched them up by eye. The lowerone was about .5 inces larger than the lower vent ring in diameter, however it seemed to work fine, there was enough land left for the screws to bite into the cabin top.

now if I could only fix those leaks from my transom drains ( yes I used some silicone aroung the metal flanges, but it still is leaking ! slowly only a few ounces per rainstorm).

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 06/26/2002 : 08:49:41

Dave, regarding the silicone around the transom drains. Silicone has some peculiar characterisitcs that don't lend well to stopping leaks - I'd recommend silkaflex for this application as well.

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najewicz
Deckhand

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USA
14 Posts

Response Posted - 06/26/2002 : 20:28:01

OJ,

Thanks for the advice, actually I did use silkaflex this time ( after removing all of the silicone from the previous year). My problem may be that I only sealed the inside flange of the metal tube (cockpit side). I should go back and seal the aft side of the transom. It's not a bad leak, just bothersome. It didn't start until the weather got hot. There must be some relative motion between the metal tube, cockpit and hull assembly.

Does anyone make a good "premade" part ( similar to to a thru-hill) which can be used to replace the metal tube?. Some in this form have advocated removing the metal tube and glassing in a new tube..... sounds difficult and non removable. It would be nice to find a part which would work well for this application, withoug getting into mixing up fiberglass.

Regarding Dave BRistle's question, I measure my hole saws for the NICO 3000 which is a nominal 3" diameter, I used a 3.5" hole saw which was perfect for the top ring ( which is smaller than the bottom ring) and a 4.0" saw to drill up from the bottom ( about half way through only) to accomodate the lower trim ring. If I had not wanted to use the lower ring the 3.5" inch would have been fine, but the lower trim ring gives it a more finished look.

The summer doldrums are upon us in Kentucky and there is not much wind so I will get caught up on my "projects" until we get some good sailing weather.

I just bought a trailer and I plan to pull the boat to do a bottom job and maybe replace the keel cable. Regards to all

Dave Najewicz
'82 SR/SK Hull 3084

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