Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
What Soft link bungee lengths should I use to get the proper pressure to synchronize the motor to draw in each direction? I can't find the bungee length from my 'Search' results.
Do I begin with a 12" or 20" or 32" or XX" bungee lenght to get the proper size?
My 2002 WK has wheel steering and Mercury 9.9 2 stroke.
I've never measured it... simply used a piece that would exert enough force to pull the motor fully to starboard (actually only about 25 degees before the tiller arm makes contact with fuel locker) but 25 deg seems to get the job done. The port direction presents no problems.
It is very convenient that the direction that is limited is pulled by the bungee, otherwise it would limit the rudder travel.
Russ, I also have the Honda 8.Does the bolt that you spoke of control the lever that locks the engine in place?I can barely move mine and never knew there was an adjustment.Can I find it in my manual? Can you tell me where to look for the bolt if it does adjust the lever tension? Thanks, Steve How did the clutches work out?
Tommy, I'm with Arlyn;I bought the white bungees at WestM.(STAINLESS) covered the ends with heatshrink so they would'nt scratch anything and tried some different sizes settling with about the 10" one. Works perfect.After I'm under way,I lock the engine,tilt it up,and unsnap the softlink never sailing with the link in place. Steve
Tommy, Arlyn is a great help. I've learned a lot reading his postings.
Steve, Here's a picture of the Honda 8hp adjustment. The 2004 Model BF8A owners manual (page 15) "Steering Friction Bolt" The screwdriver is on the bolt. It's a hex bolt with a slot. Notice the grease fitting near the bottom of the picture (page 53).
It should be noted that Russ points out a 2004 Honda 8 Classic. In 2001, Honda released the latest 8hp but it is a detuned 9.9, with electric start option and high thrust option. It also weighs considerably more than the Classic 8 which was reintroduced by popular demand. Unfortunately the Classic 8 extra long shaft was not reintroduced.
The 2001 release has a more convenient front lever friction adjuster/lock.
When I used the Classic 8, I left the friction adjuster rather loose to provide for easy turning of the motor. When disconnecting the soft link from the rudder, it was reconnected to a loop of line around the upper pintle which fixed the outboard in a center running position. If I recall correctly, the motor would also tilt up while thus connected though it would lie over to one side.
The only time I messed with the friction screw which is inconvenient to deal with while on the boat was to tighten it while trailering.
btw, the Classic 8 is a great motor with great fuel economy and thrust. For rougher conditions however, an extra long shaft is needed on the 250, especially the wing keel and there weren't many xls models made. My dealer was never aware that they were in fact available. The Classic xls was never listed on Honda's web site and evidently was missing from some sales literature. There were a few of them made however as testified on this forum.
IMHO, it is one of the best engines for the 250. The Classic 8 long shaft at 79 lbs is far lighter than the 2001 release, and gets much better fuel economy and drives the boat every bit as well with the only drawback that it was never offered in electric start... started so easily it was never needed.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.