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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

towing a hard dinghy

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JimB517
Past Commodore

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USA
3285 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/25/2004 : 16:50:38

I salvaged a very nice hard dinghy and totally rebuilt it. Fiberglass over foam core. I think it was an old Sabot sailing dinghy. My 3.5 HP outboard will plane it with me on board. I really like it. It weighs a TON (I'm guessing over 100 lbs). There is room for 4, oars, motor, anchor locker, and more. It has a deep keel and tracks straight and true.

I'm planning on towing it to Catalina. It's impossible to put this on the foredeck. I would like any advice on making a towing bridle, length of tow rope, and other suggestions regarding towing the boat.

I may make a snap on canvas cover to keep water out while towing. So far, I have a grand total of $70 invested in this boat - epoxy, filler, plywood, paint, oar locks, cleats, .....

Indiscipline 1978 FK SR #398

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2004 : 18:19:57

Make a daggerboard slo/trunk and put a 75lb bulb keel dagger in it. It will ride well.

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ronrryan
Admiral

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USA
561 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2004 : 20:51:33

(1) Fundamental idea from Fhopper good, if daggerboard slot is open fashion a blank that goes to boat bottom level and shockcord it in place, if things get rough it will prevent water from sloshing up in trunk (2) be sure your towing u-bolt has a STRONG backing block, preferably epoxied in, it is not uncommon for these to pull through when things get nasty (3) reeve a second painter to your towing point at the bow, serves two purposes: if first painter fails, you have a spare, also if the dinghy startys to surf up onto your transom, reach in with a boathook and flip number two over the side, it will slow the dinghy's rush down like a bit of a drag line or drogue, fair winds, ron srsk Orion SW FL

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Oscar
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2030 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2004 : 21:07:53

Our 8' Walker Bay has followed Lady Kay everywhere she went, on a 25 foot tether. Only once in a while in heavy following seas will it get a mind of its own and start swerving. I then change the tether length 5 or ten feet to synch the whole thing to the wavelength......I have not had the centerboard in, and am not sure if that is a good idea.....

Oscar
Catalina 250WB#618 Currently FOR SALE:
http:www.woodenshoemusic.com/C250WB

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John V.
Admiral

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USA
559 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2004 : 22:05:14

all the advice above is great, I'll add one more procedure or habit you should maintain. whenever you slow to dock or anchor shorten your painter to about 3 ft. that will prevent your having to go over the side to un foul your prop.

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Doug
Captain

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USA
457 Posts

Response Posted - 05/25/2004 : 22:57:54

I agree with Oscar. We've towed an 8 ft hard dink all over the place with nothing more special than a long tether. Makes for a great garbage/ wet clothes/ seaweed covered crab pot trailer. When you're pulling into the dock pull the line up around a winch so you can pull it in and let it out easily. Don't want to foul the prop or crush it against the dock.

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RichardG
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2004 : 00:19:10

I've also towed my hard dinghy around quite a bit. Only when it's really rough does it think about surfing, but I've never felt it ever had a chance of "catching up". Also, not too much water gets splashed in mine. I use a 20' painter of 1/2" polypro twisted three-strand (the yellow stuff) tied off to the stern cleat. The negatives -- it doesn't look very salty and the sun degrades it after only one year. The upside -- it's cheap to replace each year and it floats (which keeps it away from a spinning prop) so I don't have to worry about shortening while docking, mooring, anchoring, etc. Also, not many people use it which makes it easy to identify your painter at a super crowded, five-deep dinghy dock.

Are you going to look into setting it up for sailing? You could try Minney's -- you might find a good deal on an old sail, mast/boom, rudder/tiller, centerboard/leeboard, etc.

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Gary B.
Admiral

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USA
969 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2004 : 01:31:59

Jim, I have towed a Boston Whaler Squall hard dink for hundreds of miles in the San Juans. It tows GREAT, but it has a pretty substantial keel that allows it to track. While I don't lower the unweighted centerboard, the built in keel helps a ton. I use braided polyprope, which has lasted for many years...floats, which I HIGHLY recommend. No bridle necessary, just a line from a bow eye to a stern cleat. I get up to cruising speed, then (with the bitter end cleated; the pull is STRONG), release the painter a few feet at a time until you like how it rides on the wake and the drag is minimized. Even though it feels very strong on the pull, I have not noticed that it slows us down much (but I run the Yamaha 9.9 high thrust engine).

Good luck,

Gary B.
Commodore of Vice

BTW: I got the whole thing, sailing rig and all, for $100, after it had been donated to our college; needed wood work, a hole repaired and paint, but it has been super.....except for the weight! ugh!

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tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2004 : 08:25:27

I prefrer towing alongside the boat on the leeward side. It rides out of the wind and in usually flat calm seas. It will do best with forward and aft lines and a cushion or old pfd to cushion against chafe.

Val on Calista # 3936

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PZell
Admiral

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USA
548 Posts

Response Posted - 05/26/2004 : 09:40:48

Val's suggesion above is best way to tow the dink while mooring.
Side towed depends on side to of course. Just before entering harbor
move from trailing tow to side by side tow.

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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.