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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
My newly acquired 250 WB is still up on blocks with the centerboard hanging down awaiting bottom paint. I'm having trouble getting the centerboard up. I know it weighs about 90 lbs. Should it be that difficult to pull up? Will it be easier once it's in the water or is something wrong? What should I looking for now that it is still out of the water?
I have not had any trouble pulling my center board up while in the water. I would guess that it is easier than on land, especially while moving forward.
I have a 250 WB as well. I had my cable replaced recently and now I cannot get the board up as well, I checked into how it was installed. First, I found out that the wire was made to short.Had a new one made and it still is giving me trouble. Next I am checking the 6:1 purchase system, it looked like it has been messed with as well. Make sure that the dacron line has been fed thru the triple block and double block properly.
If you find anything additionally let me know, It might help my issues.
Tim, you point out an intersting issue with the blocks... I found that reveresing them from the factory installation did a much better job. The factory installation introduced twist knots in the block and tackle.
Ensure that the entry to the lower block is fair and not at a wide angle from the block. If it is, a twist shackle is necessary to turn the block. Mine had a twist shackle at the top and I simple moved it to the bottom block.
Last thought... check the turning ball. My first original set up jammed up and fell apart in the mechs. hands. I still have a heck of a time getting my board up even with the new fittings, really have to use a lot of back and arm muscle!
Arlyn, if ever you get a chance perhaps you can snap a photo of your block and tackle. Be nice to compare the set ups.
Will try to do that soon, I've got a couple of projects about to start on the boat and will do that while involved with them.
One of those projects is to build an add on seat to a companionway step for the galley wench which happens to be me on occassion.
Back to the centerboard system... another place that I found drag was the wire block. It has a nickle plated brass sheave and a close tolerance with the block straps. Nickle makes for a very poor bearing surface, I ground it off to expose the brass and it helped a little.
I think this is one of those times when the solution is to make gains where ever they can be had. The drag is likely cumulative and the solution gains therefore they same.
Is it possible for the centerboard to be disconnected at an accessible point near the purchase system and then working the centerboard by hand, eliminating the centerboard from being the issue. It could also show the centerboard as contributing to the drag issue. Last year I sprayed WD40 on everything I could reach, pulley tracks, cables, and down in the water hose. It did help take some of the drag from that system. I agree with Arlyn it may not be just one problem but several small problems just adding to the drag issue. Just my two cents. "Bear" splash in 2-3 weeks. C250 WB
Yes, it is possible to seperate the "two halves" of the system but it might be difficult to get perspectives when doing so.
In the drawing, the lead angle onto the block can be noted... that lead angle is not fair and will induce line twist into the block and tackle. A twist shackle on the bottom block will turn it 90 degrees and make it fair... helping. Mine had a twist shackle on the top, which wasn't needed so I simple moved it to the bottom.
Maureen, Just got back from my boat, this is the first time I ever had it up on a sling. This is my 10th season with my w/b #106 and I changed out the shims on the pin. The old nylon washers were worn down to a 1/16 of an inch.With the boat hung on the sling I would say it was twice as hard to lift the centerboard as it was in the water.As was noted ,make sure the block and tackle are aligned and there are no twists. I also installed some shims 1/2 way back in the trunk to eliminate the board slap when sitting in the slip. My biggest suprise was that when I opened the boat up there was a foot of water in the bottom.(not a drop in the balast tank) My tarp must have leaked through the hatch.Luckily the only damage is mildew on the wood surfaces. How do you get mildew off the wood?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">With the boat hung on the sling I would say it was twice as hard to lift the centerboard as it was in the water<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Just a quick thought here....I suspect the centerboard is made the same way as the rudder. Foam core, FRP shell. The rudder is heavy, yet it floats. The CB might have a considerable amount of buoyancy when submerged. Hence there is about 90 lbs of lead in the bottom of it to get it down. In what could be a piece of nice engineering, the "weight" of the submerged board is just enough to get it down, but easy to pull up. On land that would be a completely different story. Pulling up an extra 60 (my guess) pounds on land would be noticeably more work, and difficult for the hardware to handle smoothly.
Of course this is all educated speculation.....
Oscar 250WB#618 Lady Kay in Venice Inlet, Florida USA.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.