Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Has anyone used a bow rail anchor bracket a la West Marine as opposed to installing an anchor roller? I hate the thought of that installation project, but I'm concerned about the security of the anchor while underway. I'd hate to scar or punch a hole in my topsides.
I'm also curios as to whether one keeps the rode attached while the anchor is on the bracket, or if you unshackle it and then reattach the rode when you're ready to put the hook out.
FYI, this is for a 13 Danforth that I bought to augment the 8 pounder that stows nicely in the locker (the big Danforth won't fit anywhere neatly).
I installed an anchor roller on Antares, but the configuration caused the flukes to scar the topsides when the anchor was stowed on the roller. Therefore, I also installed anchor hangers on the bow pulpit. I keep the chain and rode attached to the anchor at all times.
I singlehand and anchor often, and have found this arrangement to work extremely well for my needs.
Is there anything special that you do to the anchor while on the bracket and underway? Shock cords? lashings?
Also, can you describe where on the rail you have the brackets installed? The uprights? Either side on the horizontals? Do you have a true extended pulpit? My 96 does not.
I don't do anything special and I don't have an extended pulpit. As you can see from the image below, the hangers wrap and bolt around the front of the horizontal on either side of the bow light, about half way aft toward the forward verticals. One bracket has a hole to accept one side of the T at the crown and the other bracket has a swing gate to accept the other side of the T. <img src="http://www.westmarine.com/images/full/16158_f.jpg" border=0> Here's a link to the product at West Marine. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001& langId=-1& catalogId=10001& productId=4547& catalogId=10001& classNum=89& subdeptNum=& storeNum=
I assume you had to cut a small hole in the leading edge of your anchor locker lid to accomodate the chain while the anchor is hung on the bracket? Please describe what you did. I am also interested in doing this mod.
No, I didn't have to cut or drill anything. My '85 model C25 has a factory-designed notch in the deck at the center forward anchor locker hatch to accomodate the chain and rode. This is very nice, because I'm always rigged to anchor, and I don't have to pull and flake the rode (stow flaked in locker) prior to dropping the hook.
OK, I want to hang the anchor like you did because the locker situation on the 78 C25 is difficult to say the least. If I ever had to anchor in a hurry - good luck! Plus the lid keeps hitting me in the head while working.
I guess I'll cut the notch and then epoxy up the sides.
My hatch isn't any better. And, I lose at least two layers of skin on my knee and elbow from holding it open while retrieving the rode, every time. However, the big benefit does come from a rapid deployment, as you said.
IMHO, it would be much more prudent to cut the notch in the hatch than in the deck.
Teasel doesn't have a hanging bracket, but I had one on my old PY23. They work fine, and are very easy to install. My standard 13# Danforth with 6' of chain and 200' of nylon fit nicely in the anchor locker, but Teasel is an '86. The locker also has the molded notch at the front so one can pull line out when the cover's closed. To keep the hatch open, I use a very short bungee that goes around the pulpit and hooks to the cover hasp; trying to hold it open with your leg while getting the anchor in gets old in a hurry.
One comment about hanging the anchor off the bow- On our C22 we had the anchor off the bow, a little chain hanging down. No problem. Once when we were coming in to dock. Bow to the dock, sharp turn, no problem. done it many times, but this time the chain caught a cleat before I made the turn. Stopped the boat right quick if I recall....
Lady Kay has, as other 250's I suspect, a small stainless steel piece of wire, attached with an eye bracket to the inside of the anchor locker lid, and it has a plastic hook on the other end. It hooks on to the pulpit eye where the lifeline attaches and keeps me from getting the aforementioned bruises contusions and lacerations.....<img src=icon_smile_cool.gif border=0 align=middle> Dollar for convenience it sounds like a worthwhile mod for you all.
Holy ^&*$ the "notepad" where I keep my foto signatures (and lots of other important stuff) for cut and paste has emptied itself in the last crash!!!!
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Plus the lid keeps hitting me in the head while working. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> <font size=2> <font face='Comic Sans MS'>I also have a devise to hold the hatch open. I epoxyed a small block of wood to the under side of the anchor locker hatch and screwed on an eye bracket. To that I attached a 3/16" bungee with a nylon hook. I open the hatch take the bungee around the stanchion of the pulpit and hook it so it stays open. Presto no more bonks on the head. I have this on the anchor locker and the cockpit lazarette. Cheap and works great. </font id=size2> </font id='Comic Sans MS'>
I have mine on the bow and use to keep it there. I don't anchor out much, but if it is not there I don't use it at all. I put about 6 feet of clear tubing over the chain to keep it from scratching up the deck. I used some grease to help easy the instalation, it looks kind of greasy but hey it did the job. I have the anchor off now because my new 150 gets caught on it, not the hooks themselves but on the anchor. If I were to go for a cruise with the 110 I'd put the anchor out then.
Well, I ended up going with the same model as sailgal. It really seems to work well. And the chain on my Danforth #13 fits right through the cutout in the anchor locker - no problem.
This site is a GREAT resource full of VERY helpful folks.
Looks like bit of a boo boo on the C250 design... rather than having a 'lead point' on each side, they put the notch for the anchor chain right in line with the foreguy attachment.
Oh well.
Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family, '78 Catalina 25
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Plus the lid keeps hitting me in the head while working. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> What?? How does your head get in there? <img src=icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle>
BTW, does anybody have a neat solution for stowing a 14# Delta (or similar plow)? So far, I just keep it and its rode under a dinette seat, and have to lug it up on deck to use it. I leave the PO's little Danforth in the anchor locker
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
Yes, I noticed that too. It could well get in the way of the snatch block for my drifter, though I haven't tried it yet with the chain out and attached to the anchor.
I also haven't confirmed whether the hanging anchor is going to bind on either my gib or my drifter. Guess I'll just try it out and adjust the bracket location based upon my findings.
The good news is, this particular bracket can be hung in 8 different ways and positions.
This site is a GREAT resource full of VERY helpful folks.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.