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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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How to use buffer and rubbing compound?

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Kip C
Navigator

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USA
243 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/23/2003 : 10:11:23

I have a project boat that is severly oxidized (sitting outside on a trailer for 10 years). What type of pad and method should I use to apply the rubbing compound (no 7 paste) to get a even gloss. I tried a sander/polisher that I have with a lambs wool pad, it seems to do the job, but the gloss is blotchy. Thanks for any tips

Kip Casada

'90 C25 #6021
SR/WK

Edited by - on

Buzz Maring
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1768 Posts

Response Posted - 08/23/2003 : 10:46:07

Hi Kip,

What a shame that someone left a new wing keel sitting on her trailer for 10 years ... how sad! <img src=icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle>

Steve Madsen is the master at this ... hopefully he'll put in his two-cents worth. I used his advice and got excellent results on my '77 ... AFTER I spent five days scraping all the paint off the hull with razor blades.

Anyway, Steve recommends a commercial-grade polisher ... he uses a Milwaukee 11 amp ... I bought one, and it is a beast ... they are expensive, but worth it in the long run. So, if you have a wimpy polisher you might consider getting a beefier one (or maybe you could rent one).

Steve also uses #7 rubbing compound, followed by 3M Fiberglass Polish/Restorer. If your results are "blotchy," I'm guessing that you need to use more polish, and it might take several coats.

There is another product called "Poli-Glow" that some have used with excellent results. I haven't used it ... I think you've got to remove any wax before you apply it, and I seem to recall it is pretty expensive. Nevertheless, those who've tried it really liked the results.

'Hope this helps. Most of making the hull look nice is a simple secret ... LOTS of elbow grease, almost no matter what you use.

Good luck ... I'd love to see some photos!

Buzz Maring
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3df23b3127cce9306a9b3abad0000001010" border=0>
~~Freya~~
C-25 SK/SR #68

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deastburn
Captain

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USA
334 Posts

Response Posted - 08/23/2003 : 12:03:46

Funny you should ask, just when I finished brousing the magazine section at West Marine in Punta Gorda, Fl. (it was very warm out and I had time to kill). There is a GREAT (maybe even DEFINITIVE) article on bringing back stained and dirty gelcoat in Popular Sailor. It is either the June, July or August issue. It covers everything, from vinegar and acid wash through to final buffing. It does make the point to keep rubbing compound use to a minimum--you are wearing away a probably already thin gelcoat, and once the gelcoat is gone, you more or less have to resort to paint, and that means a re-paint every three to five years or so.

Sail magazine in answer to a similar request in this month's "Ask Sail" reports that Y-10, according to expert Don Casey, has been the most effective solution for him. "If that doesn't work, try On & Off by Mary Kate.

Try www.sailmagazine.com and click on Ask the Experts.

I was in the same position as you when I purchased "Wood Duck" six seasons ago. I used rubbing compound (not knowing any better) and the result was (and pretty much remains) blotchy as you describe. This fall I will try the whole Popular Sailor routine, beginning with the vinegar...

Dave on "Wood Duck" (#2616)

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atgep
Master Marine Consultant

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1009 Posts

Response Posted - 08/23/2003 : 22:42:41

Poly-Glow ROCKS!!!!!!!!!. My 1988 had suffered the same fate as yours. I suspect the last wax it had on it was when it was in the mold. I tried like hell for 2 days to get ONE 2 ft square looking presentable. I bought the bullet and purchased the expensive $55 kit. I followed the instructions and less than 6 hours later I had a hull that looks better than 95% of the boats in the marina.
A couple of things I like about the poly glow. There is very little gel coat removal. The process seals the gelcoat. Any oxidation or dock rubs now have something to eat thru before the gelcoat gets touched.
I used softscrub with bleach to "prep" (my hull has jacked up). Then used the cleaner . And lastly you put the polyglow on. If you go this route The thinner the better on the coats. Poly-glow is very much like mop & glow.

I only use half of the kit bringing the cost down to Only $25 for a great looking hull . Just my opinion, Tom.

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 08/24/2003 : 21:34:31

Yep, after returning three "polishers" I settled on the Milwaukee commercial grade, 1,750 rpm. 11 amp.

First off, the edges need to be done by hand . . .

On my 25 I was able to restore the shine with two applications of No. 7 rubbing compound and one application of No. 7 polishing compound. Lastly, I use Collinite's Liquid (not the paste) aeronautical and marine fleetwax.

On my 22 which had a Tangerine colored hull I sanded it with 800 grit first, then the compounds and then two coats of the wax 10 days apart.

That's my formula, it works great and easily lasts through the entire season.

Good luck!

Edited by - on

Kip C
Navigator

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USA
243 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2003 : 15:33:35

Hi All,

I'll give more info than In the original post. Our C25 is one of the few things I've bought( 1st part of this year) that is not a project, it's in great shape. But, since it is our first boat ,I have alot to learn about maintaining it, and I enjoy reviving nearly dead things, I bought a 1987 catalina 22 that sat on it's trailer for 10yrs( I've been accused of being a bit obsessive). So any tips regarding the 22 would be appreciated.

Besides shortening my learning curve , I"d like to not waste so much compound(I seem to be spinning off half off what I'm trying to apply), so I have a few more questions:

I'm assuming the pad needs to be damp. How much compound per area. How much of the pad is pressed against the hull?

What works best in applying the compound -smear the compound on the hull or work some in to the lambs wool pad, then using the polisher, slowly work the area to even it out,and then increase speed and rework the area to a shine?

Any other tips would be great. Thanks for the replies.

Kip Casada

'90 C25 #6021
SR/WK

Edited by - Kip C on 08/26/2003 19:08:35

Edited by - Kip C on 08/26/2003 19:21:32

Edited by - Kip C on 08/26/2003 19:45:23

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2003 : 22:28:41

<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

I smear the compound around some first so it doesn't splatter as much.

Actually I get the best results when the pad is dry as the water dilutes the compounds making them less effective - also leaves annoying marks. At last count I currently own 10 polishing pads (lambswool.) As the pad begins to get a buildup I change out to a clean/dry pad to keep the momentum going. I can polish the entire hull in 90 minutes. I wash out all the pads in one session.
It takes some practice to leave no marks, but you'll get the hang of it. I really don't push the polisher against the hull - I just hold it up, rest it against the hull and let the polisher do all the work. I do three foot sections (fore to aft, rubrail to waterline) at a time. BTW, I've tried 3 or 4 different brands and found the No. 7 products are the best by far when using a power polisher.

Edited by - on

NuNees
Navigator

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USA
125 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2003 : 23:20:49

I agree whole heartedly with ATGEP's remarks about 'PoilGlow'. I have restored/renewed 5 or 6 automobiles finishes. I used wet sanding and rubbing compounds of various grades with a heavy duty buffer ( borrowed it from the body shop guys, so it was no slouch). The results were fantastic on the hard auto paints.
But, Gelcoat is soooo soooft! So be very careful.
OR
order Poli Glow and save yourself a couple of weeks of back breaking labor. Just blend the color (remove stains) and use the cleaner as directed to clean old wax and oxidation the, as ATGEP said apply Poli Glow just like mop-n-glow. Careful that you don't develop runs and sags. Apply it sparingly. 6 coaaats as you walk around the boat...no sore shoulders...no sore neck...no splashed rubbing compound on your glasses...no bull sh*t!
www.poliglowproducts.com

Good Luck.

Bill jaworowski,
Moonbeams.
C25 SK/SR #4953
Sailing Lake Carlyle, IL.

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2003 : 22:11:33

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>

But, Gelcoat is soooo soooft! So be very careful.
OR
order Poli Glow and save yourself a couple of weeks of back breaking labor. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Certainly a reasonable degree of care should be used with a polisher on any surface . . . e.g., not applying excessive pressure and keep it moving (don't leave the bonnet on the same spot.) 1,750 rpm is a common speed for a polisher; higher rpms can heat up and soften or burn the gelcoat . . .

Edited by - OJ on 08/28/2003 07:58:54

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atgep
Master Marine Consultant

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1009 Posts

Response Posted - 08/28/2003 : 00:44:53

Poliglow on my brain..... It was a way to get the boat on a mooring 3 weeks faster. And I still have ALL the precious gelcoat I started with. When the gelcoat is gone, so are the options. I am only 2 months into the experiment. So far it has been better than advertised. With all that extra time I am almost done with the cushions!!!!

Edited by - on

Kip C
Navigator

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USA
243 Posts

Response Posted - 08/28/2003 : 16:31:05

The first thing I have to say Is ... OJ, you da man! I've compounded the hull once, and oh the difference. I wish I had a way to include pictures( I'll see what I can do). The gelcoat has gone from flat, matted finish to a gleam. The washed out, faded blue strips are now the color of deep blue water. Ther is still a little unevenness tin the gloss. Should I go another round of compound or go to the polish next? I also used no 7 compound with a green srubbing pad,on the BLACK rub rail and it is now a nice clean plummers putty (tan) color. Don't get me wrong, it did not happen without sweat. After looking all over for bonnets (my new technical term for the pad) for my 16yr old craftsman sander/polisher and not having any success, I retired it. Now , as Buzz put it , I have the Beast ,milwalkee polisher 5460-6 with a few proffessional grade bonnets. Most off the time, its the craftsman and not the tool that makes the difference, but, I can't say that this time.
I'm keyboard challenged, and have run out of time for now. I'll see what I can do about pics. Thanks!

Kip Casada

'90 C25 #6021
SR/WK

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 08/28/2003 : 19:50:02

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Ther is still a little unevenness tin the gloss. Should I go another round of compound or go to the polish next?
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Kip,
Glad to hear about the results. As for the unevenness, you could try the polishing compound and if that doesn't clear it up you can always go back to the rubbing compound.
You should notice an increase in the "gleam" with he polishing compound and even more with the wax.
BTW, I give OJ a quick once-over with the polishing compound each spring followed by the Collinite - no dull spots in more than 5 years.

Steve Madsen
#2428
OJ (Ode to Joy)

[url="http://catalina25-250.org/photo0.htm/"]<img src="http://www.catalina25-250.org/photo/ode075.jpg" border=0>[/url]

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