Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I think, looking closely at the photo, that there are actually three 1x1 untreated white pine sticks in that rudder, one on each end and one in the middle, though I also think that this is not a case of “more” equating at all to “better”.
I had planned someday soon-ish to upgrade my likely-original rudder, which has some very subtle signs of swelling/splitting along the middle seam, with one of the “balanced” rudders Catalina Direct sells, but I must say that this thread has given me pause.
1986 C25 SR/FK/Trad. “Puffin III” - #5040 Sailing Lake Michigan out of Michigan City, IN
Well, before seeing the innards of the one the OP disposed of, I would have said I didn’t feel qualified to safely construct my own rudder. Now, maybe I’m not so sure.
1986 C25 SR/FK/Trad. “Puffin III” - #5040 Sailing Lake Michigan out of Michigan City, IN
A few pieces of pressure treated southern yellow pine 2x4s would be a whole heck-uv-a lot beefier than those cheesy white pine struts IMHO. You might be onto something there …
If you're willing to make your own rudder, consider a full 1" x two pieces 6" wide x 48" red oak, doweled, epoxy glued and coated followed by a few coats of paint. It is easily shaped by a table saw, plane and sanding...
Henk & Johanna "Floating", a few off your "barnacles". "Someday Lady" '95 C250WB #151 ('03 - 2016) "Sea ya" 30ft Bayliner (04-2018 - 09-2018) "Mariah" '96 C250WB #191 (05-2019 - 15-05-2023) "Lady J" '00 C250WK #499 (05-2021 - 09-2022)
Good ideas, however, to the OP, how to make Ruddercraft understand that some of their suppliers are providing them with sub-standard materials. It appears the stainless is the problem.
Peter Bigelow C-25 TR/FK #2092 Limerick Rowayton, Ct Port Captain: Rowayton/Norwalk/Darien CT
Looking at Chris' photo, the rust streak runs directly under the bolt, but not under the pintle. I wonder if the pintles are 316 ss, but the bolts they're using are 304?
Steve Milby J/24 "Captiva Wind" previously C&C 35, Cal 25, C25 TR/FK, C22 Past Commodore
...You know, the dimensions for the balanced rudder are available online for free.
If anyone is interested, here are the measurements I took off the Ruddercraft "Blue Water" rudder I bought in 2014. It's supposed to be solid HDPE, and I can attest that all of the bolts for the pintles went through solid material (unlike the picture posted here of the one that failed). On San Francisco Bay it gets tested pretty aggressively, and I've been quite happy with it.
But I've got to get going; the SailGP racers are practicing up in the Central Bay today, and until the afternoon breeze picks up I'm looking at an hour and a half of motoring to get up there. See ya' later (and I hope someone finds this helpful).
The trouble with a destination - any destination, really - is that it interrupts The Journey.
Lee Panza SR/SK #2134 San Francisco Bay (Brisbane, CA)
Just for reference, my rudder was not the "Blue Water" one which is a little more expensive. Sounds like it could be worth the little bit of extra money for what might be a significantly better product.
My rudder did sail really nicely, and honestly would probably have lasted a lot longer with in less abusive conditions.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.