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Electrical Panel

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Erik Cornelison
Navigator

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USA
194 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/15/2019 : 15:35:03

Anyone have links to electrical panels?

Going to replace my original 1986 with similar type unit. Yes I looked at Catalina Direct, just looking for other options. Prefer circuit breakers vs. fuses.

P.S. Just looking for a standard replacement, nothing extra fancy.

Erik

Erik Cornelison
6th Generation Professional Sailor, First Gen Submarine Sailor.
1986 Standard Rig SW. #5234

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1891 Posts

Response Posted - 08/15/2019 : 16:50:41

Re. electrical panel similar to original 1986 but with circuit breakers.

A couple years ago I installed a complete new electrical system in a Catalina 22, which originally had an electrical system and panel similar to a stock Catalina 25. (About 5 switches w/fuses, mounted low where it was inconvenient to use, and likely to be exposed to feet and dampness.)

In the relocated new switch panel, I used rocker switches with LED indicator lights, and push button circuit breakers. Both the switches and breakers fit in common size round holes in a panel up to maybe 3/16" thick.

If you search Amazon for "push button __ amp circuit breaker" specifying the capacity you want, you should find several examples.

The ones I used are screw terminal (which I strongly recommend) from Blue Seas I think. If you go with spade lug circuit breakers to save money, I suggest soldering wires directly to the terminals.

Example of push button circuit breaker with screw terminals:
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DH35VJC]

Examples of the oval rocker switches with LEDs:
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GRMHSV2]
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J0PFX3Y]

Note that the similar looking round rocker switches require rectangular holes. At the switch lugs I soldered wires long enough to reach the nearby circuit breaker and terminal strip (and ground bus bar for the LEDs as I recall).

Crimp terminal kits with hot glue lined heat shrink insulators:
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TC8WR8L]
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GB2JWVT]

Screw terminal strips, 8-circuit:
[https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000S5Q2VS]

Examples of common bus bars with screws:
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WGGMLV]
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N9P4ZY]
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JF5LF1Z]

For marine grade electrical wire, I use Ancor or Lawrence brand. I think Defender sells Ancor by the foot.

� Leon Sisson

keats
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
215 Posts

Response Posted - 08/15/2019 : 18:10:20

I like the Catalina Direct panel because it fits the existing opening and gives you some extra circuits.

The bus bars, like Leon linked to below, are a must and are much handier than the drilled and tapped copper bars used originally.

Tim Keating
1985 C-25 TR/FK #4940
Midsummer
Lake Don Pedro, CA

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3411 Posts

Response Posted - 08/16/2019 : 08:56:46

Duplicate deleted

Larry
'89 Robin's Nest#5820, Potomac River/Quantico, Va
http://catalina25.homestead.com/olarryr.html

Edited by - OLarryR on 08/16/2019 10:17:38

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3411 Posts

Response Posted - 08/16/2019 : 09:02:32

I installed a BEP 8 breaker/switch panel in front of the sink , many years ago. It was part of a number of mods/improvements at that time - Mast and switch panel rewiring, installed fans, DC Accessory plug, etc. My old switch panel still operates some loads that I decided not to transfer to the new panel - DC Accessory plugs, VHF radio and the fish finder. The new panel made it easy to access primarily the Nav lights and steaming lights without leaving the cockpit area.

My website has the switch panel/electrical improvements, detailed. The BEP was primarily selected because I liked the switches, how they fit in the panel and also needed a panel that the internals did not protrude too far inside so there would be sufficient clearance with the sink bowl. Since BEP is an Australian mfr, you buy it primarily from a few USA distributors that sell their products. I cannot recall who I bought it from years ago, it may have been Defender. But these days, Defender has a limited number of BEP panel styles and so best to check with others like: Hodges Marine, Discount Marine Sppliers, etc. Rcmd check with BEP Marine, directly, to see if you are interested in their panels. They are not cheap. I purchased the BEP 901H and they still sell that 8 breaker panel but it is likely to cost over $200.

Larry
'89 Robin's Nest#5820, Potomac River/Quantico, Va
http://catalina25.homestead.com/olarryr.html

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9048 Posts

Response Posted - 08/16/2019 : 09:10:35

Having experienced circuit breaker failures in marine environments, I personally favor fuses. They don't fail to open, and their trip-point does not vary with age or exposure. And I can easily put the correct fuse into my switch panel based on the usage on a particular circuit. (I realize the back of the panel in the C-25 dumpster isn't as easy to access as mine in the head.) I do have to carry spare fuses, but I have not had to replace one yet in my current 12-year-old boat.

But that's just me.

I know there are lots of circuit breakers out there...

I have two of these switch panels.

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 08/16/2019 09:14:59

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4012 Posts

Response Posted - 08/16/2019 : 09:44:38

quote:
Having experienced circuit breaker failures in marine environments, I personally favor fuses.

I have to agree. I've never had a fuse fail on me but I've had to replace that 30amp shore power breaker. The only upgrade I did was to sister another panel to the original panel to get more available fused circuits.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

redeye
Master Marine Consultant

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3476 Posts

Response Posted - 08/16/2019 : 11:28:15

<< just looking for other options >>

I added a blue sea systems fuse block in addition to the panel that is on my 1984 Catalina 25. It is used to provide unstitched power to circuits that have switches for fused uninterrupted power like my depth finder, and bilge pump. using blade type automotive fuses. mounted under the stairs out of the way but I can still get to it easily.

Ray in Atlanta, Ga.
"Lee Key" '84 Catalina 25
Standard Rig / Fin Keel

Erik Cornelison
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
194 Posts

Response Posted - 08/16/2019 : 14:25:38

Great responses folks, thanks so much. Any other idea's let me know. I got some researching to do.

Erik

Erik Cornelison
6th Generation Professional Sailor, First Gen Submarine Sailor.
1986 Standard Rig SW. #5234

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 09/02/2019 : 21:18:02

https://www.bluesea.com/products/1200/12_Volt_DC_8_Position

1989 C25 TR/WK, #5822
1973 McVay Minuet 19
1975 Jester 12
1981 C25 SR/SK, #2428
1981 C22 SR/SK,
Tanzer 16
Sunfish

"There is nothing, absolutely nothing half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." Kenneth Grahame

Edited by - OJ on 09/02/2019 21:26:03

Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
9048 Posts

Response Posted - 09/03/2019 : 17:35:04

A little color to the case for fuses...

We were a few miles off the beach, outside of the kelp bed off San Diego and about five miles from home port in Mission Bay, when we started smelling plastic smoke coming from the cabin of the other guy�s C-25�not a sweet smell in that situation! I went below, and the smoke was coming out of the galley cabinet. We shut off the battery and found the �dumpster� was also full of smoke. But it began to dissipate. So with an escort we raised on the handheld radio (a case for handhelds), we continued about an hour to home. The culprit turned out to be wires that chafed inside a screwed-down wire tie, and a who-knows-how-old breaker that maybe should have popped, but didn�t.

Now I will never rely on circuit breakers in a boat. They fail now and then on our shore power panel at my condo complex�s dock�age and salt air... In a house, they are more protected but should be �exercised� occasionally to make sure they work freely. Car companies and most boat builders don�t use them any more�blade-style �automotive� fuses are the things. They just don�t fail to open when they should, And you can easily match the protection on each circuit to its usage. It should be no more than what is specified by the equipment maker(s).

Stay smoke-free out there! (�Where there�s smoke.........�)

Dave Bristle
Association "Port Captain" for Mystic/Stonington CT
PO of 1985 C-25 SR/FK #5032 Passage, USCG "sixpack" (expired),
Now on Eastern 27 $+!nkp*+ Sarge

Edited by - Stinkpotter on 09/03/2019 20:24:08

Gunner
Deckhand

Members Avatar

Canada
12 Posts

Response Posted - 09/18/2019 : 17:27:40

Hi Erik,

Earlier this summer I was going to replace my panel as well, mostly to combat the rats nest behind the panel and thinking I didn't have enough spots to plug everything in. My battery had accessories wired right to it by previous owners, and there were some poorly done merrett and/or electrical tape connections behind the panel.

I changed my mind and ended up keeping the old panel and I'm really happy with what I did instead.

The first stage was to clean up all of the negative connections, so I added a larger negative bus bar near the back of the panel.

In the second stage, I ran three switches (running, cabin, accessories) to three respective Blue Sea fuse panels like buddy showed in the picture above. And then from there you have specific fused circuits running to each respective device. I decentralized the Accessory fuse block by moving it to another location aft on the boat with a negative bus-bar nearby. The Cabin fuse block got moved as far to port as I could put it- where all of the original cabin lighting comes out. I also added a couple USB plugs into the cabin that are all run to this fuse block.

I was so happy with the finished result. The back of the panel looks clean and organized and mostly everything has a label right at the fuse blocks.

The ONLY extra thing that's added to the battery posts (other than the what's supposed to be on there) is a "Blue Sea #4356 12 Volt BelowDeck Panel" that I wired directly to house battery. I have one of these mounted right under the sink and with a flick of a switch I can see the house battery's capacity. Some say it won't be as accurate as a proper Vctron battery monitor (~$500) but for $400 bucks less it's good enough for me.

Cheers!

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