Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
My old '78 has too many layers of ablative (copolymer) bottom paint. It has just gotten too rough for racing, what with old chips, etc. so that it is not real fair anymore. Being somewhat lazy, and having too little time, I am trying to explore the easiest, quickest way to remove the layers that are on the boat.
I MAY do the barrier coat bit if I get down to gel coat, but after 25 years I have not had much of a blister issue, so I may not do it. I am afraid of trapping existing moisture within the hull. The boat has been out of the water for 3 months or more under a shed roof.
I don't yet own enough good tools, so this is an issue for me. I have only used a 1/3 sheet Makita finishing sander in the past with 80 grit. Getting through several layers will take FOREVER. I am actually toying with renting a sandblaster (with walnut shells as abrasive, not sand). The rental guys say it will work and not harm the fiberglass, but I am seeking other opinions. I would consider some sort of stripper, but I am concerned a bit about my painted trailer upon which she rests.
My friend, Terry Annis, said he scraped his "fuzzy" paint off with some sort of scraper before the VC Tar and VC 17 treatment, but mentioned that it took 5 days.....
Must I scrape, then sand? What sort of sander should I buy or rent? I HATE slow hand sanding. What do you folks use on the tightly radiused surfaces like the mini "keel" aft, near the transom?
I would appreciate any and all responses. I hope to begin this job next weekend (April 12 or so....) There is a regatta two weeks after that, and I would love to be ready for it...hence the hurry....
Gary, I redid the bottom of my Catalina 22 a few years ago and think I would rather have a root canal than do another. The paint was thick with much of it beginning to flake on the underside of the hull near the keel and back to the rudder. I used a carpenter's chisle (not too sharp) and it took the paint off rather nicely without damaging the gel coat underneath. It was a filthy job and took almost three days. I wore a face mask and goggles because of the dust and debris. Once cleaned up and painted, the bottom looked great and held up well through the season. I don't envy you. Perhaps pressure washing would do some good.
Mike Roetter '83 C25 #3568 SK/SR Marblehead on Lake Erie
I recently did this job on my '81 C25. 20 years worth of non-ablative bottom paint was in pretty bad shape, it kind of looked like the surface of the moon.
I used "peel away" stripper on the inside of the keel trunk (swing keel) due to the tight spaces and curves.
However for the majority of the hull I used a simple 4 inch wallpaper scraper and I went through about 5 blades. With a little practice on the stern, where it is pretty flat, I was able to figure the best angle and the bottom paint just peel off in tiny pieces. I placed a drop cloth on the ground to collect the scrapings.
This left a slight paint residue on the gel coat that I sanded off with a Dewalt RO sander using 80 grit paper. The pad on this sander is very flexible and it would follow the curves of the "mini keel" skeg. Over that went 7 coats of 2001 epoxy sealer and the two coats of Red ablative bottom paint (Micron Extra) and then two coats of Black.
The keel was out of the boat for a separate involved repair that is another story entirely.
Scraping the hull took me about 10 hours total and another 8 for all the sanding but it was much easier than the chemical stripper in my opinion.
The "Peel Away" worked best for me with a coarse bronze wool pad to scrub out the keel trunk and then water to flush it. Very messy but the peel paper didn't work very well. It probably would work better on more accessible areas but the scraper was just as easy and much cheaper.
If you choose to blast with either shells or soda I would encourage you to seal the hull with a barrier coat. If you just scrape and sand you might not need to. I just decided that I wasn't going to do all this work EVER again so I sealed it while I was there. Good Luck!
I will be glad to answer any questions....
Clif Thompson Treasurer C-25/250 National Association. svMoxie '81 25 sk
Most bottom paints are designed to come off in the water over time. When you clean your bottom, you are basically taking off another layer of paint. I have not seen this suggested, but the last time I did a bottom paint job, this method worked great. We used a hose and a scotch brite pad with a handle on it. We ran the hose over the paint and hand sanded with the scotch brite pad. The bottom paint seemed to melt away. There was no toxic dust, and no heavy sander.
I had several coats of bottom paint (about 1/16 inch) on my boat when I bought her. After one season I decided I HAD to re-do the bottom. She was really foul, as a boat yard had just painted over the bottom with no surfacing effort at all.
Started with a large orbital sander. Then saw how slow that was going to go, and tried remover. Finally wound up with a remover called Dad's something or other, which worked. But you can't leave it on too long because it will eat through the gel coat.
NEver did get all the paint off, but got most of it. Filled holes with Kitty Hair filler and sanded it smooth. Feathered where I couldn't get the last bits of paint off. User a scraper, the remover, and the sander. Huge job, and I don't want to do it again, because it really is tough.
I have heard that the remover you can buy at boat shops that uses two parts, a liquid and then a paper that you put on to keep it moist, works well. After several hours, you peel the paper and it brings the paint with it. But as I say, I didn't try it, so I can't vouch for it.
Thanks to all for the great ideas. I will tell you later which idea I used and how it worked. To tell you the truth, pressure washing does always result in colored water everywhere. I may actually try the water/scotch brite idea first since it sounds easiest and least dangerous to the bottom, etc. We'll see. I really appreciate all the input. If someone else wants to ring in....I'll keep monitoring this thread.
Josh, I don't mean to be rude, and I know there is no simple answer.
We used a hose and a scotch brite pad with a handle on it. We ran the hose over the paint and hand sanded with the scotch brite pad. The bottom paint seemed to melt away. There was no toxic dust, and no heavy sander.
"Where does the toxic solution go." Was it going down a storm drain etc. This will be a pretty concentrated slug of stuff getting loose too. Are there any notes on cleaning after painting. These directions might need to be used with the water method. It does sound like a good way to do the job, I'm just curious.
Well, I am not sure why, since my paint is "ablative", but the hose and scotchbright didn't seem to do it on my boat. Seemed very, very slow. It is beginning to look like there won't be an "easy" way. I bought an orbital sander today, but haven't had time to try it.....I'll keep checking in....
Gary B. #685 SK/SR
P.S. I am out in the "boonies". I think I won't worry too much if bottom paint goes into the gravel under my shed roof. I don't want vegetation to grow there anyway.....The well is a hundred feet away or more......
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> I'm sure the project will speed up once all the old paint is removed. At least that's what I keep telling myself. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
John, Using your 1/4 sheet sander with 80 grit should work well once you're finished with the scraper. Hang in there!
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Josh, I don't mean to be rude, and I know there is no simple answer.
We used a hose and a scotch brite pad with a handle on it. We ran the hose over the paint and hand sanded with the scotch brite pad. The bottom paint seemed to melt away. There was no toxic dust, and no heavy sander.
"Where does the toxic solution go." Was it going down a storm drain etc. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
The boat yard I use has a special drainage system to recover water from the yard to prevent toxic bottom paint going into the environment from sanding and pressure washing.
Obviously it has to go somewhere, I meant it is preferable to the dust getting into the air and into your lungs or onto your skin and clothing.
I believe that is a requirement in my area (Huntington Beach, California).
My boat is out of the water too. Gary put an ablative paint on it last year. How long does an ablative last? I was thinking I had to do it again, but maybe I don't. . . .
Hey, Bill: I tried pretty hard to do a good job on that bottom paint. Because it is a copolymer, it is designed to last even when the boat is taken out of the water then put in. Most conventional paints won't then still have biocide that is active. I am confident that the paint will still retard growth and sluff off as designed. I think you will be fine for another year or two at least. When you pull her, pressure wash and look for any places where the paint may be starting to chip, or if it has sluffed to the point that it has worn completely off. That is why some people do one color as a base, then two coats of another color. Then you can tell easily when the boat's paint has sluffed through. I did not use two colors on your boat, but she got 2 full coats over the hull and 3 at the waterline and on high use areas like the rudder.
I really don't think you have to worry. If memory serves, the bottom of Shoes was pretty smooth except for a few very small blisters. I fixed the bigger ones.....
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.