Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
So I’m assuming that on a C250 the on-off switches are also thermal circuit breakers. You say that you replaced your traditional incandescent light bulbs with LEDs so your overall current demand ought to be less than 1/2 the former draw. It’s always possible that there’s a partial short in the circuit. The lights in question are the bow red/green and stern white light and no other lights. You might want to check current draw at the switch. Should be less than 0.400 Amps.
ok. It has worked for over a year. Now 10 secs. on the panel fuse pops.... Is there a wiring diagram for the panel anywhere to be found? thx
quote:Originally posted by Voyager
So I’m assuming that on a C250 the on-off switches are also thermal circuit breakers. You say that you replaced your traditional incandescent light bulbs with LEDs so your overall current demand ought to be less than 1/2 the former draw. It’s always possible that there’s a partial short in the circuit. The lights in question are the bow red/green and stern white light and no other lights. You might want to check current draw at the switch. Should be less than 0.400 Amps.
Hey Vdot, I don’t have a C250 so I’m not familiar with the setup of your boat’s switch panel, but let’s assume it’s set up similar to the later C25 switch panel, as shown in the link. Let’s also assume the “Running Lights” are the culprits, bow red/green and stern white. They’re both LED lamps. And that no other lights (anchor, bow/steaming light) are causing the same problem.
I went to the Manuals & Brochures section of this website (left side of the page) and followed the links to C250 HTML brochure and found a very rough wiring diagram. See this Wiring
It shows the running lights connected to a panel connection, but is unclear on which one. Also does not show the negative return wires (aka “grounds”).
I’d trace the wires and look for chafing through the insulation especially near the fixtures. That could cause an intermittent short circuit.
When you turn on the running lights, do they come one briefly before the breaker trips? Do they flicker? What brand of LED lamp did you buy?
Also, do you have an FM radio on your boat? Can you check whether the LEDs create static or “hash” while running? Some LEDs use a DC-DC converter that could cause problems.
Also, a few other simple checks. Do you have a voltmeter? 1. Remove both LEDs and turn on the running light switch. Does that pop the fuse? 2. Replace the white stern light and turn on the running light switch. Does that do it? 3. Remove the white and install the red/green LED. How about that? 4. With power off and both LEDs removed, set your voltmeter to Ohms and probe the fixture contacts. It should read open circuit, or infinity Ohms. If you get a reading under say 100 Ohms, there’s a problem in the wiring or there’s some corrosion creating a short. 5. With the LEDs removed and your voltmeter set to 20 VDC, probe the fixture contacts. Should read around 12.6VDC.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.