Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hi All, Getting my 1978 C25 Standard Rig optimized for single handing, my attention turns at once to the foredeck. Hanking, raising and lowering the foresail doesn't seem safe or easy as wind conditions change. So I am looking for a low-cost approach, https://www.sailrite.com/CDI-Furler-Flexible-FF4 was suggested, wonder if you folks that are happy with this furler have any suggestions for selecting a good match for a headsail to run in it? And what kind of sailing you do? It is advertised as a great fit when you step your mast a lot, perhaps a good idea for this larger "trailer sailer." Thanks for any advice, Alex
My boat came with a CDI F4 and a 135 genoa , it has worked well for me so far but there is a lot more sailors with a lot more experience on this forum then me that may a more informed opinion .One thing is you have to be careful with the flexible extrusion when you trailer your boat , if it's not kept straight it will kink permanently, I was not aware of this when I bought Tempus last year and it had a bit of a "S" in it but I was able to get the sail on and it has since straightened out.
The hard plastic luff when straight looks great - but if improperly stowed (like when the mast is laid down) in such a way as to induce a kink in it (as in improperly tying it off to something for transport) - the kink will stay there for weeks or months until it relaxes back straight again.
And, don't undersize the unit... the reason being that if you have too small of a drum you have to downsize the furling line such that the total number of feet of furling line will reel into the drum depending on the size of your jib... in my case to pull the 110% jib in I have to use 3/16 line... I would rather have had the next size up drum and be able to use 1/4-inch line for the furler... easier to handle and I would worry less about the line snapping under heavy pressure when reefed.
The ball bearing version is the only way to go too...
As far as performance - very happy with the total experience... easy to let out and easy to reef. Minimal to none for maintenance issues and water hose spraydown for cleaning.
You should expect to be cautious when measuring for your new jib to ensure you get the top where you need it and the bottom where you want it.
I would like to sail on a boat that has their mainsail reefing to see how that works out...
Carl, have you considered pulling the core out of the 1/4 line except for the last few feet were you handle/pull it initially? It is fairly easy to do and should give you enough space in the drum.
Thank you Carl, Andy and Scott. Price-wise, it appears the Selden GX 15, which includes all the deck hardware and lines (extra $100 on the CDI FF4) and has ball bearing mounts, would be pretty equivalent. Not sure what the fine print is on either one, my main question is whether to equip it with a 150 or 135 headsail? Any recommendations for sail brand would be appreciated too, I am frankly a total newbie with keel boats.
The Selden GX 15 is not a roller reefer. It's not made for reefing a head sail. It's made to fully roll up or to fully deploy the sail only.Its used mainly for spins ect.
Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688 Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound
Looks as though the Selden GX 15 is as Scott points out, for spins, and is better deployed with a bowsprit, which I feel would be a fairly expensive mod for an older C25. Am I right?
I don't have a CDI furler but discovered while headsail shopping that National sails sells the CDI furler with a new 150% Genoa for right at $1500. Sense I already had a working furler, I didn't need that combo and also wanted a 135% for my sailing needs. I did buy my new sail from National,(Rolly Tasker) and have been very pleased with the price and quality. Also had my sail in about 3 weeks. As far as size goes, I would suggest you check with other sailors in your area to see what size seems to be most favored. Best of luck.
Vela sailing had a CDI Ff4 for 750.00 but they roll up the plastic channel for the luff. You can in roll and,flatten with heat gun. Before raising sail. If you don't want this you can order,local from someone that receives them on flatbed deliver for 1500.
I have sailed a boat with a CDI furler. The down side I noticed was the internal halyard. I prefer the Harkin with normal halyard. Just my two cents worth.
1988 WK/SR w/inboard diesel Joe Pool Lake Hobie 18 Lake Worth
Life is not a dress rehearsal. You will not get another chance.
There are 2 topics. The comment from hewebb means the CDI internal halyards. The CDI halyard allows the user to remove the headsail from the furler without dropping the mast. CDI has internal halyard, while the Harkin has an external halyard. Removing the headsail is usually done at the dock.
Your existing headsail halyard is not used by the CDI furler. Note: the CDI furler is standard on the C250. On my C250 the headsail halyard is delivered but not used.
Thanks Russ! I am ready to install the FF4 now, wondering how much and what size and type furling line to get? The install manual mentions 20 turns inside the drum when furled up, I would think 50' would do it but ... 3/16 is probably minimum gauge, right? I have seen posts about pulling the core out of 1/4" so I am totally confused now :)
3/16 is probably minimum gauge, right? I have seen posts about pulling the core out of 1/4" so I am totally confused now :)
The furler does not take much strain. 3/16 would work fine. They take the core out so as to fit more turns on the drum in order to fit a 150% genoa. not sure that it is necessary.
I have a Harken on my C-25 TR-SK. I cannot comment on the CDI Furler. I have used a piece of 10 ft. PVC pipe to secure my lower extrusion. On the 25, the extrusion and Drum extend beyond the end of the mast when it is lowered. I cut the PVC in half and hinged the two sides with a few SS piano hinges I bought at a surplus store. The PVC gives the extrusion the rigidity that I need to secure it to the mast. As you trailer sailors know the lower drum extends beyond the mast and flops in the breeze. The PVC supports the lower extrusion and drum.
I've got a Harken as well. Mine hasn't been down since I had the furler installed. How do you lower the mast with a ridgid furler like our Harken's without bending the extrusions?
Gary, I detach it from the deck, below the drum, and have someone walk it back toward the stern as the mast is lowered. I try and keep in away from the boat until the mast is secured. I then use the PVC to lash it to the mast.
Gary, I detach it from the deck, below the drum, and have someone walk it back toward the stern as the mast is lowered. I try and keep in away from the boat until the mast is secured. I then use the PVC to lash it to the mast.
Thank you Joseph!
Do they walk to one side (like along the dock) or just straight back along the deck?
Do you get the feeling it will get a permanent bend in it easily or does it just get a gentle bow in it until it's secured?
I'm lowering my mast this fall for the first time on this boat . Is it easier at the dock ? Or on the trailer ? When I raised it I used the jib sheet on the A-frame and the furler drum did have to be dealt with , it does look easier hooking up to the forestay under the drum .Used to just push the mast up on my C22.
I've lowered mine twice by myself in the water and it was really no big deal but that was before the furler. The 2nd time it was pretty windy. Boat didn't move around that much.
One advantage of being in the water is your not 10' in the air on a trailer so if you happen to fall over the side at least the water is soft compared to concrete.
I'd say it would definitely take 2 people minimum with the furler.
I've raised and lowered it myself since buying the boat three years ago. First year I bent one of the shrouds, had to have a new one made. Raising it requires you to keep a close eye on all the stays so they don't catch on anything or kink, plus one person to walk forward with the furler and pull on it while you put the pin in. Last year, a 75 year old friend missed his footing and fell off the bow. Torn rotator cuff surgery, now another one coming up to remove scar tissue. It's a long fall. So this year I raised the mast by myself which was difficult to do, and wrenched my back. So this fall, the Marina is going to do it with their crane for $75. I think that will be money well spent.
Michael Levin Sailin' on Sunshine C250 #402 WK Lake Tahoe
I've raised and lowered it myself since buying the boat three years ago. First year I bent one of the shrouds, had to have a new one made. Raising it requires you to keep a close eye on all the stays so they don't catch on anything or kink, plus one person to walk forward with the furler and pull on it while you put the pin in. Last year, a 75 year old friend missed his footing and fell off the bow. Torn rotator cuff surgery, now another one coming up to remove scar tissue. It's a long fall. So this year I raised the mast by myself which was difficult to do, and wrenched my back. So this fall, the Marina is going to do it with their crane for $75. I think that will be money well spent.
SOrry to hear of the misfortunes. Luckily I didn't have any issues but I'm older now and have been considering the crane route. Not only to preserve my health but also that of my furler.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.