Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Gary, i have only raised and lowered my mast from the hard on my trailer. You can walk the furler on either side. The boat is high off the ground so the furler stays relatively straight. I then attach the PVC and secure it to the mast.
quote:Originally posted by GaryB
quote:Originally posted by Enchantment II
Gary, I detach it from the deck, below the drum, and have someone walk it back toward the stern as the mast is lowered. I try and keep in away from the boat until the mast is secured. I then use the PVC to lash it to the mast.
Thank you Joseph!
Do they walk to one side (like along the dock) or just straight back along the deck?
Do you get the feeling it will get a permanent bend in it easily or does it just get a gentle bow in it until it's secured?
Somebody in this thread mentioned being "cautious before cutting" the luff strip. Well, of course I wasn't and due to a multitude of factors (picking a "too windy" day, bad choice of helpers, etc.) ended up cutting it a foot short for the new Genoa I ordered with the furler. Now I know what CDI is going to tell me: Buy a whole new strip. But having a background in Physics (and none in sailboat rigging -- blush!), I was considering putting the 1' strip I cut off under the rest of the luff strip (below the feeder for the foresail).
Anybody have thoughts on this? I have heard "plastic welding" and "epoxy" but I am wondering if I could end up doing damage to the sail, halyard or (worst case) forestay with a "two-parter"? I'm sure there is a bit of torque when furling, but once the sail is deployed, when the majority of wind force is applied to the stay, seems like the torquing forces will be little if any?
Admitting my impatience (and let's face it stupidity) somehow feels good! Now if I can just confidently make that brand new Genoa fit on my mistake, that will be the icing on the cake, or should I say "whipped cream on poop!"
I'm going to be honest but that sounds like a terrible idea. Good luck
quote:Originally posted by AlMo
Somebody in this thread mentioned being "cautious before cutting" the luff strip. Well, of course I wasn't and due to a multitude of factors (picking a "too windy" day, bad choice of helpers, etc.) ended up cutting it a foot short for the new Genoa I ordered with the furler. Now I know what CDI is going to tell me: Buy a whole new strip. But having a background in Physics (and none in sailboat rigging -- blush!), I was considering putting the 1' strip I cut off under the rest of the luff strip (below the feeder for the foresail).
Anybody have thoughts on this? I have heard "plastic welding" and "epoxy" but I am wondering if I could end up doing damage to the sail, halyard or (worst case) forestay with a "two-parter"? I'm sure there is a bit of torque when furling, but once the sail is deployed, when the majority of wind force is applied to the stay, seems like the torquing forces will be little if any?
Admitting my impatience (and let's face it stupidity) somehow feels good! Now if I can just confidently make that brand new Genoa fit on my mistake, that will be the icing on the cake, or should I say "whipped cream on poop!"
Captain Rob & Admiral Alyson "David Buoy"-1985 C25 SK/SR #5053
If you are planning to "repair" it, there is a lot less torque at the top. I don't remember what the cross section looks like, but maybe you could drill holes and use steel pins and epoxy the keep the sections together and square.
It may not be that crazy, a lot of furlers come in sections.
Possibly sell to someone that has a shorter head sail?
1988 C25 Wing Keel Std Rig Tohatsu 9.9 Tiller Steering and 2003 C250 Wing Keel Std Rig Inboard Diesel Wheel Steering
Possibly you could put 2 tight fitting SS rods about 8" long driven half way into the sail tape slots, Possibly epoxying them in then drive the shorter 1ft extrusion section on to the 2 protruding Rod's. You want a tight fit. The rods should be enough to handle the rotation torque. Then you could wrap the joint with rigging tape tightly wrapped and extending out 8-10" from the center. I'd be afraid of using any screws or metal that might damage the sail. I don't have a CDI so I'm just going by photos of the extrusion and it looks like there are 2 slots, One forward, One aft. If not then disregard the above.
I ended up successfully following islander's plan with 4 - 4.5" x 3/16" stainless rod drilled (carefully) into the two sections of luff extrusion (CDI confirms the top of the stay will have the least torquing moment). Purple primer was use to mark drill points on the opposing (1') strip, so the rods lined up. Then, pounded the two sections flush after coating with PVC cement, and a quick dremel job to clean up the excess cement from the sail and halyard grooves. I wasn't too concerned with leakage into the stay channel, because the stay itself should take care of removing the excess. The "oops" only shows when the sail is fully out and so far no objectionable (guess de-masting will be in the "objectionable" category ) characteristics while underway!
Thanks again to islander for his suggestions and encouragement!
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.