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Need stanchion, bow and stern pulpit removal tips

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Drews Cruise
1st Mate

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USA
39 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/18/2017 : 13:06:47

Hey all,

I need to remove all the stanchions in order to apply deck paint I just had a few questions after finding nothing with the search function.

Most of the forward stanchions seem pretty straight forward to remove except that there are 4 bolts going into the top or each stanchion and I can only see 2 from the inside of each stanchion. Are some of the nuts glassed in?

Also, I can't find the nuts for the stern pulpit at all...are those glassed in completely or are they hiding somewhere?

Any advice on removing stanchions would be appreciated, also, I didn't see any backing plates, do you recommend I add some?

I can't find anything on this.

Thanks in advance.

Drew C. | 1979 Catalina 25 SK TR #1420
http://bit.ly/Click_Here_For_My_Catalina_25_Videos

Phredde
Navigator

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125 Posts

Response Posted - 09/18/2017 : 15:46:24

I had a similar question when I needed to remove my aft pulpit aka pushpit. What I found on my 1984 FK/SR was:

* that the bolts on the two forward stanchions of the pushpit went all of the way through with nuts located in the dumpster locker (on port), and I believe up in a well on the starboard side.

* The two rear stanchions of the pushpit had bolts without visible nuts. These must have been glassed in, but I was easily able to remove/replace the bolts.

* I also replaced one of the stanchions just forward of the cockpit. this is the one that everyone grabs while boarding, and it bent over time. It had all 4 nuts visible, but was again a little tricky to get to.

For the ones with nuts, I backed them with large sturdy washers and lock washers too. I seem to remember that some sizes didn't fit all locations, so you may need a variety. I would recommend that if your stanchions take any stress, like mine do, to use some sort of backing.

I can also recommend that you try inspecting with a mirror and if/when you find the nuts, various lengths of ratchet extenders. Those came in very handy.

Good luck -

Phredde

Phredde
Catalina 25
San Francisco

islander
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4017 Posts

Response Posted - 09/18/2017 : 15:59:12

If I remember correctly, Bruce (Voyager) said that the bolts on top of the transom were screws or bolts with captive nuts. Either way you should be able to just unscrew them. The forward ones by the gates are probably bolts with nuts as said above.and are accessible from the dumpster and behind the wood access panel in the ceiling of the aft berth.

Scott-"IMPULSE"87'C25/SR/WK/Din.#5688
Sailing out of Glen Cove,L.I Sound

Lee Panza
Captain

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USA
465 Posts

Response Posted - 09/18/2017 : 20:02:09

Another essential accessory, which might seem to go without saying but it shouldn't, is someone to hold a tool on the other ends of the through-bolts. That person would presumably be on top while you squirm and curse in the tight quarters belowdecks. And do this in a quiet place where you and your helper can hear each other (the instructions, not necessarily the curses). If they're holding a screwdriver on the #1 screw, and they're looking around at the other boats and watching the seagulls while you're turning the #2 nut, you won't make much progress.

Two of the nuts under each of the side stanchions are behind a facia lip extending down about an inch and a half under the side decks on each side. And the two forward stanchions of the pulpit are in the anchor locker.

Backing plates should be considered, but there are two schools of thought on this. Under normal conditions the stanchions are often yanked or pushed: by well-meaning helpers when you come in to a dock, by clumsy passengers, and on occasion when the lifelines are doing what they are named for. This exerts a lot of force on the base and tends to loosen the waterproofing at the bolts. Backing plates (or even large washers) can spread the load on the deck structure and reduce that. On the other hand, when an extraordinary lateral load is applied - as when something projecting out from a dock or another boat hooks a stanchion or a lifeline as you go by - it might be preferable for the bolts to pull through the deck than for a large section of deck to be ripped out. I understand that it has happened.

If you're going to the trouble to remove the stanchions you'll probably also want to remove the escutcheons around the chainplate through-deck penetrations for the upper shrouds. This would be a good time to re-bed those penetrations. Same for the through-decks for the lower shrouds, although that's more ambitious while the rig's still standing. But it saves scratching the deck paint when you peel-off the bedding material that oozes out around the fittings. And what about the cleats?

As for the painting itself, do a very thorough job of prepping the surfaces before applying the paint. They call it "painting" rather than "surface preparing" but 90% of the work in a successful paint job is in the prep.

Good luck!

The trouble with a destination - any destination, really - is that it interrupts The Journey.

Lee Panza
SR/SK #2134
San Francisco Bay
(Brisbane, CA)

Drews Cruise
1st Mate

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USA
39 Posts

Response Posted - 09/19/2017 : 10:30:21

Thanks for the advice guys, it is seriously helpful. I will remove the stanchions and pulpits with a helper today. For those of you that have painted your decks, did you bother removing the stanchions like me? It actually seems fairly easy especially if many of the nuts are glassed in. And yes, I will be removing the other hardware for paint. I'd like to take her out for a sail first though, just removing the stanchions to not waste time while I wait for the paint on the keel to dry, looking forward to a test run ;)

Drew C. | 1979 Catalina 25 SK TR #1420
http://bit.ly/Click_Here_For_My_Catalina_25_Videos

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5348 Posts

Response Posted - 09/19/2017 : 12:00:44

Yes, Islander, the bolts screwed into nuts in the transom. Piece of cake in my case, your results may vary. I'll just provide one word of warning: all bedding compounds were not created equal. Life Caulk or Poly Sulfide caulk is the only one to use for bedding deck hardware. 3M 5200 polyurethane is NOT advised, as it is a powerful, permanent, SUPER GLUE that you'll soon regret. Silicone is also not advised as it needs to be held mechanically in place and is nearly impossible to clean once you find that it didn't work as you intended.
[edit] Butyl tape is a good alternative once you get the hang of it, since it too never hardens.
Just another word on polysulfide. A lot of people, first time they use it, find that it's extremely messy to clean up, and smears all over when you try to clean it up.
Don't even try!
The trick is to lay it on thick and let it squish out of the gaps without trying to clean it up. Once the material cures, it turns into a rubbery consistency that you can trim with an exacto blade or sharp knife. This is how to clean it up, approximately a week later.

[corrected attribution]

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

Edited by - Voyager on 09/22/2017 17:38:41

Drews Cruise
1st Mate

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USA
39 Posts

Response Posted - 09/19/2017 : 15:19:23

Managed to get the stanchions off pretty easily thanks to everyone's prompt assistance. I appreciate it fellas.

Also, I will be going with marine sealant, thanks for the tip!

Drew C. | 1979 Catalina 25 SK TR #1420
http://bit.ly/Click_Here_For_My_Catalina_25_Videos

Peregrine
Admiral

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830 Posts

Response Posted - 09/19/2017 : 16:24:43

There is a tried and true way to replace stanchions and other through deck items.
I'm sorry it is a bit involved.
Drill the hole out about an 1/8th wider than the bolt then take a bent nail or allen wrench and sharpen the short end. Put it in your drill and dig out any loose balsa core between the deck and interior. This will remove any water damaged core. If the stanchion needs replacing the core has been damaged to some extent.
Tape the hole from the interior and fill the hole and what ever came out from the core with epoxy. Adding a bit of fiberglass fibers to the epoxy will strengthen the epoxy. Some of the holes will take more epoxy depending on how much water damage you have reamed out. Yes completely fill the hole.
After that cures re-drill the holes and install the stanchions or pulpit using the correct sealant. This will give you a restored deck and core to attach the items. You will be drilling a hole in a new surface.

John Gisondi
Peregrine #4762

*

Edited by - Peregrine on 09/19/2017 16:57:20

sethp001
Mainsheet C-25 Tech Editor

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814 Posts

Response Posted - 09/19/2017 : 18:04:06

One key reason that sealants fail is that the resulting gasket is too thin. The sealant is applied, and then most of it squished out when the fasteners are tightened. This does not apply to butyl tape.

Here are two techniques:

1. Apply the sealant. Attach your hardware, hand tighten only. Wait an hour or enough time for the sealant to partially solidify, set. Then tighten your hardware completely.

2. Bevel your through-holes at the deck before applying sealant and reattaching the hardware. Use something like this for beveling (I'm not posting the image directly because it shows up huge on the forum.):

http://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/i/spin/image/spin_prod_220997501?hei=416&wid=416&op_sharpen=1

Seth
"Outlier" 1987 Catalina 25 SR/SK/Traditional Interior #5541
"Zoo" 1977 Morgan Out Island 30
"Nomad" 1980 Prindle 16
"Lost" 1988 Catalina Capri 14.2 (sold - yay!)
"Marine Tex 1" Unknown Origin POS 8' Fiberglass Dinghy
https://whichsailboat.com/2014/07/27/catalina-25-review/

Edited by - sethp001 on 09/19/2017 19:06:16

Lee Panza
Captain

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USA
465 Posts

Response Posted - 09/21/2017 : 21:50:52

A variant on the first of those two techniques is to allow enough time for the bedding material to set up firm, and then tighten only the nut without turning the screw or bolt. The bedding material acts as a custom-formed gasket as well as a sealant, using both its adhesion to the upper and lower surfaces as well as the compression against those surfaces to seal out water. Avoid turning the screw or bolt, which breaks it free from the bedding material and allows water to leak down along the broken bond; this is especially important when using bolts with smooth shanks above the threads.

The trouble with a destination - any destination, really - is that it interrupts The Journey.

Lee Panza
SR/SK #2134
San Francisco Bay
(Brisbane, CA)

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5348 Posts

Response Posted - 09/22/2017 : 17:41:25

Lee, that's an excellent tip, since I've had bedded bolts that leak when retightened by rotating the bolt.

Bruce Ross
Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032

Port Captain � Milford, CT

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