Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'm hoping you guys can post up some pics of your tiller pilot mounts. Specifically the Simrad tp10. I am replacing my old Navico TP10 with a new Simrad TP10 (same unit, new company) and found out the trough is 1" shorter. Also, the PO had it mounted 24" from the rudder pivot point, not the recommended 18". So I need to change things up a bit to get it to work properly. It is currently mounted to the SB settee as far aft as possible. The Simrad cantilever mount will work great but costs $75. I'm a cheap skate so I'm always looking for a cheaper way. Suggestions?
I have no pictures, but to allow proper function of the tack feature, the distance to pivot point of the rudder is critical. Mine was not done right, so am constantly bouncing off end of stroke...grrrrrind, gghghggg (oh the humanity......) :O)
We are now looking for a replacement and re-mount.
CJ, Sorry didn't see your post earlier. Here's a photo of my setup. I used a Shakespeare antenna mount strapped to my starboard, inboard catbird seat support. I found a bronze bushing at my local hardware store that perfectly fit the OD of the AP leg & the ID of the antenna mount.
It's a bit tight as you can see, but I only lose about 1" of starboard throw, and if I was really concerned about it, it wouldn't be too hard to fab up a mount that was offset to port to accommodate that. Thus far I haven't found it to be necessary.
Yesterday I took Lily out and calibrated the pilot. Wow what a difference it makes. It seems to be working fine now. However, I do need to do some more testing.
I will try to get some pics of my set up this weekend and post them here.
CJ, Sorry didn't see your post earlier. Here's a photo of my setup. I used a Shakespeare antenna mount strapped to my starboard, inboard catbird seat support. I found a bronze bushing at my local hardware store that perfectly fit the OD of the AP leg & the ID of the antenna mount.
It's a bit tight as you can see, but I only lose about 1" of starboard throw, and if I was really concerned about it, it wouldn't be too hard to fab up a mount that was offset to port to accommodate that. Thus far I haven't found it to be necessary.
Can you tell me what the model number was of that Shakespeare mount? That is exactly the setup I am going for with the Raymarine st1000. Did you hook it up to your NMEA system?
Also, are you happy with your solar panel and output? I have a large one that I have to stow every time we go sailing. I would much prefer to have one permanently mounted if it can supply enough juice to charge a single 12V for overnighting. Thanks.
I don't recall the part number, and I probably won't get down to the boat this weekend to look for you. I see a similar one on West Marine's site that'd probably work for you. The trick was finding the bronze bushing to adapt from the mount to the auto pilot pin.
As far as the solar panel, I'm really not sure how well it will keep my batteries charged over a weekend. I've got a regulator panel in the battery compartment and two deep cycle batteries. I've never been out long enough to worry about draining the batteries. I've also switched out all of my lights to LED to reduce consumption. I think the only light left on the boat that's not LED is the spreader light, which is still whatever it came with the boat as. I so rarely use it, that I haven't seen the utility in trying to replace it.
David C-250 Mainsheet Editor
Sirius Lepak 1997 C-250 WK TR #271 --Seattle area Port Captain --
I have a 2.5 watt and a 5 watt panel on the back of my boat (see photo). I have not used the 5 watt panel for the past year because I think it is overcharging my battery. I have connected a volt meter in the middle of the day and it regularly puts out 22 - 24 volts. The 2.5 watt panel puts out about 13 - 15 volts. The panel manufacturer of both panels say that a charge rate controller is not necessary. I think otherwise for the 5 watt panel and have disconnected it until I get around to adding a charge rate controller.
Anyhow, the little 2.5 watt panel in its very poorly mounted location has been doing a wonderful job of keeping my batteries topped up. I have two Group 27 batteries (new spring 2015). My interior lights and anchor light are LED. All running lights are standard bulbs. I have a tiller pilot which I use quite often. I also have three fans that are used regularly.
I do not run my motor a lot, but it does also charge when running. I am very seldom plugged into shore power. I spend many weekends on the boat and have spent full weeks, without any charge problems.
I have a 2.5 watt and a 5 watt panel on the back of my boat (see photo). I have not used the 5 watt panel for the past year because I think it is overcharging my battery. I have connected a volt meter in the middle of the day and it regularly puts out 22 - 24 volts. The 2.5 watt panel puts out about 13 - 15 volts. The panel manufacturer of both panels say that a charge rate controller is not necessary. I think otherwise for the 5 watt panel and have disconnected it until I get around to adding a charge rate controller.
Anyhow, the little 2.5 watt panel in its very poorly mounted location has been doing a wonderful job of keeping my batteries topped up. I have two Group 27 batteries (new spring 2015). My interior lights and anchor light are LED. All running lights are standard bulbs. I have a tiller pilot which I use quite often. I also have three fans that are used regularly.
I do not run my motor a lot, but it does also charge when running. I am very seldom plugged into shore power. I spend many weekends on the boat and have spent full weeks, without any charge problems.
This is the way my ST2000 is mounted. Port side keeps it out of the way of the outboard which I am always pulling up after sails are raised and auto is steering.
1998 250 WK/TR #355 "Trail Break" Lake Tahoe California
I considered mounting mine on the port side as well, but since I leave my outboard down the entire time I'm sailing, I just went with the "standard" starboard mount (you don't have to reconfigure the AP to work "backwards").
The reason I leave my outboard down is because I don't want any delays between realizing I need to dodge around or get out of the way of an oncoming vessel on Puget Sound, and getting the outboard fired up and pushing me where I want to go.
Even still I've had a couple of close calls right at the mouth of the Duwamish River. I've had a tug & tow make a 90 degree turn right in front of me less than 100 yards away (we were taking down sails, so that was a particularly hectic few moments, I now take my sails down in a different part of the bay), ferries like to sneak up on you, and the worst are the (powered) tour boats. They don't seem to care in the slightest what you have to do to get our of their way. The sailing tour boats act like you'd expect from fellow sailors.
David C-250 Mainsheet Editor
Sirius Lepak 1997 C-250 WK TR #271 --Seattle area Port Captain --
I considered mounting mine on the port side as well, but since I leave my outboard down the entire time I'm sailing, I just went with the "standard" starboard mount (you don't have to reconfigure the AP to work "backwards").
The reason I leave my outboard down is because I don't want any delays between realizing I need to dodge around or get out of the way of an oncoming vessel on Puget Sound, and getting the outboard fired up and pushing me where I want to go.
Even still I've had a couple of close calls right at the mouth of the Duwamish River. I've had a tug & tow make a 90 degree turn right in front of me less than 100 yards away (we were taking down sails, so that was a particularly hectic few moments, I now take my sails down in a different part of the bay), ferries like to sneak up on you, and the worst are the (powered) tour boats. They don't seem to care in the slightest what you have to do to get our of their way. The sailing tour boats act like you'd expect from fellow sailors.
Your outboard has a few extra things coming from it as well. Looks like throttle cables. What is the hull fitting you have the outboard electrical going through? Where did you get it? I have just a hole for mine and would like to weather proof it a bit more.
1998 250 WK/TR #355 "Trail Break" Lake Tahoe California
I considered mounting mine on the port side as well, but since I leave my outboard down the entire time I'm sailing, I just went with the "standard" starboard mount (you don't have to reconfigure the AP to work "backwards").
The reason I leave my outboard down is because I don't want any delays between realizing I need to dodge around or get out of the way of an oncoming vessel on Puget Sound, and getting the outboard fired up and pushing me where I want to go.
Even still I've had a couple of close calls right at the mouth of the Duwamish River. I've had a tug & tow make a 90 degree turn right in front of me less than 100 yards away (we were taking down sails, so that was a particularly hectic few moments, I now take my sails down in a different part of the bay), ferries like to sneak up on you, and the worst are the (powered) tour boats. They don't seem to care in the slightest what you have to do to get our of their way. The sailing tour boats act like you'd expect from fellow sailors.
Your outboard has a few extra things coming from it as well. Looks like throttle cables. What is the hull fitting you have the outboard electrical going through? Where did you get it? I have just a hole for mine and would like to weather proof it a bit more.
Yes, I've got a Power TIller hooked up to my outboard, which lets me control the shifting and throttle from the tiller (very convenient, I really like the setup, and the guy who invented it used to be a member here).
The cable runs through a cable clam. I don't remember exactly where I got it, but it could have been from West Marine.
I think if I were to do it again, I'd have run it to a trolling motor connection instead, so I I wanted to remove the outboard, it doesn't take a lot of disconnecting cables like I will currently. Oh well, it seemed like a good idea at the time.
David C-250 Mainsheet Editor
Sirius Lepak 1997 C-250 WK TR #271 --Seattle area Port Captain --
I used a Shakespeare antenna mount strapped to my starboard, inboard catbird seat support.
The forum is so helpful...
When considering how to mount the tiller pilot a quick search produced this thread...
I made the same decision Delloittg did... sacrafice an inch of travel in exchange for ease of installation - although I did choose to go with port side installation.
The device is a West Marine nylon antenna rail mount.
Autopilots are just so handy... gotta love these things...
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.