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 Steps refinishing question		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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indyshelley
1st Mate

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USA
45 Posts
Initially Posted - 03/11/2014 :  18:38:07  Show Profile
Wild weather here.....70 degrees today and we are suppose to get 2-4 inches of snow tomorrow!
Anyhow...I got to go to the boat tonight! I removed the steps and want to refinish them. What is the best way to do this? Sand paper by hand? What should I put on them? Thank-you in advance for any recommendations.
"Lakehouse" 1981 TR/SK #2443 Dinette Model
Eagle Creek Reservoir, Indianapolis, Indiana
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Ape-X
Admiral

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USA
662 Posts
Response Posted - 03/11/2014 :  18:50:57  Show Profile
I pulled the plugs, unscrewed and sanded by hand random orbital. the reason for disassembly was to router grooves. I finished in teak oil, and they looked great.

found the old pics....sailing texas shows some interior shots. ALL interior woodwork is only teak oil. Several coats and some steel wool between leaves a fine finish. And inside recieves little UV to damage it. below is the link in the swap meet for the sale of moe Uhane, and within that, the sailing texas link which still has the ad available.

Good luck in your project!

http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=26809&SearchTerms=moe
Edited by - Ape-X on 03/11/2014 18:55:09
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indyshelley
1st Mate

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USA
45 Posts
Response Posted - 03/11/2014 :  18:55:37  Show Profile
I removed all the screws from the top step but i couldn't get it to budge. I assume it is glued.
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Ape-X
Admiral

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USA
662 Posts
Response Posted - 03/11/2014 :  19:03:06  Show Profile
Both steps need to be removed, they are dadoed into the stringers. I don't recall glue, though be careful, I did chip (and succesfully glued back into place) the edge of the dadoe on a stringer. Not too big a deal, as it was small and hidden by the step.
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5353 Posts
Response Posted - 03/11/2014 :  19:35:00  Show Profile
Teak oil is fine for interior, however you will wind up redoing it often. I used Cetol and after several years only need to touch it up. If you do refinish, don't omit the "landing pad" or a large area of grippy stuff on the top step that's glued down with an adhesive backing. After a few near spills I added the grippy stuff. You can find it in hardware and boating stores.
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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts
Response Posted - 03/11/2014 :  20:53:54  Show Profile
Interesting, I wouldn't have expected Ceto to hold up in a high wear area. Grippy stuff is essential in my book if you ever get wet when sailing. The fast trip into the cabin can be fairly painful.
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Stinkpotter
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
9076 Posts
Response Posted - 03/11/2014 :  21:46:25  Show Profile
Cetol is tinted (various tints) for UV protection, which isn't much of an issue here. It's also a relatively soft material, which makes exterior maintenance easier, but will probably wear more than necessary on companionway steps. I use it for exterior brightwork (that nobody walks on). For the interior, I lean toward tung oil, which builds to a hard satin finish, or satin polyurethane. (I'd never use the latter on the exterior.) Both finishes bring out the natural grain and color of teak--Cetol tends to hide it.
Edited by - Stinkpotter on 03/11/2014 21:47:44
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shnool
Former Capri-25 Tech Editor

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USA
1032 Posts
Response Posted - 03/12/2014 :  03:49:12  Show Profile  Visit shnool's Homepage
Sandpaper water, raise grain, sandpaper (finer), water raise grain, finer sandpaper, then varnish, captains spar, better put grip tape on it after that...

OR Liquid Gold

Cetol might not hold up well, to wear. My step is 7 coats of Captains Spar, its slippery, but not the slightest bit warn.
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dasreboot
Admiral

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804 Posts
Response Posted - 03/12/2014 :  07:42:41  Show Profile  Visit dasreboot's Homepage
ive heard that you sprinkle salt over the last coat of varnish . when it dries, you dissolve salt and have a non slip surface.
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oldragbaggers
1st Mate

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USA
47 Posts
Response Posted - 03/18/2014 :  19:24:07  Show Profile  Visit oldragbaggers's Homepage
I'm a sucker for brightwork, Spar Varnish, gloss. And I have used it on stairs. You just have to put down several strips of non-skid tape on the step areas.
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pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts
Response Posted - 03/19/2014 :  16:44:14  Show Profile
I only use Old English Lemon oil on interior teak. Everything else darkens the wood and makes an interior dark and the boat seem old. lemon oil will keep teak looking like new bright teak forever. I use spar varnish on tillers and to seal in something I cannot afford to replace like old handrails. However as soon as I can afford new hand rails they go on with teak oil. I am a Cetol hater and a varnish only in rare situations kinda guy. Oil is always the better choice in my world.

Bofore


after


before


after


lemon interior
Edited by - pastmember on 03/19/2014 16:57:13
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oldragbaggers
1st Mate

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USA
47 Posts
Response Posted - 03/19/2014 :  17:20:28  Show Profile  Visit oldragbaggers's Homepage
Very pretty boat, Frank. Your wood looks very classy and rich.
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pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts
Response Posted - 03/20/2014 :  17:44:30  Show Profile
Thanks, I loved it and then sold it. I love my boats then sell them due to mental illness. I had a nice '82 swinger too... once. I sail a Starwind 223 now.
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indyshelley
1st Mate

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USA
45 Posts
Response Posted - 03/20/2014 :  20:00:22  Show Profile
Thank's for all the advice. I ended up sanding, sanding, sanding and more sanding..LOL. Then applied orange oil. I am extremely pleased with the results! Here is an after pic all installed:
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pastmember
Master Marine Consultant

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2402 Posts
Response Posted - 03/21/2014 :  12:38:51  Show Profile
Sweet!
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.