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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
One of my winter projects is to organize the galley section. The album includes some shots of my galley box prototype. I'm looking for more ideas to improve it.
FYI..a couple of general points:
- the front and top can be removed and can be used for individual trays or keep together and will sit across the cockpit as a table.
- the top right side has a piece of ceramic tile so that hot pans or coffee pot can be set down.
- the space on the bottom right is enough space to place a thermos so that coffee will remain hot. I was thinking about holding it in place with magnets.
Not sure if I loaded this correctly but all images are in the album "Karma Galley Box"
I assume you built this to fit into the space where the "curtain burner" used to be ... is that right?
If so, how do you plan to secure it in place?
The handles on the sides make it look "portable" ... did you design it so you can take it out of the boat when you want to?
When you want to detach the outside tray from the inside one, do you simply pull the pins out of the hinges? (i.e. change from photo #7 to photo #6)
In photo #7 with both trays attached, is there anything supporting the bottom of the outside tray? It looks like the only support is the attachment at the hinges, and I was wondering how much weight it would be able to support without anything underneath it.
The box is infact made to fit inside of the space for the curtain burner. It is higher then the counter and comes up to the height of the rear shelf so that the shelf will still be usable.
I was thinking of securing it with some sort of quick disconnect releases attached through the back and into the trim behind it. Maybe a spring loaded fastener with a wing head like panel access fasteners on machinery or light aircraft.
Yes the handles are there to make it portable if desired. They don't interfere with the operation or setting it in it's place so why not go for it. I thought that it would be better to make it portable for end of season or off-boat camping.
The pins are a part of the hinges. If you google "slip joint hinges" you'll see them. I even found a company who will make them in custom sizes.
The only thing that supports the two trays when connected are the hinges and the thickness of the plywood. That area could use more reinforcement or something to make it more stable. I would hate to have something happen when we were eating breakfast. I think that there is enough space on the bottom to include some sort of bar or lock that would keep the two trays aligned.
When I build the final version, I plan to include teak edge trim to cover all of the exposed edges.
I was thinking of securing it with some sort of quick disconnect releases attached through the back and into the trim behind it. Maybe a spring loaded fastener with a wing head like panel access fasteners on machinery or light aircraft.
<font color="blue">I have a microwave in that same spot. I used some self-adhesive adjustable fasteners that I found at an RV supply store ... they might work for you, too. The straps lock in place, but you can release them to remove whatever the straps are holding. You can see them in this photo if you look closely:</font id="blue">
The pins are a part of the hinges. If you google "slip joint hinges" you'll see them. I even found a company who will make them in custom sizes.
<font color="blue">I Googled "slip joint hinges" ... I didn't know about those ... 'a GREAT tip ... thanks!</font id="blue">
The only thing that supports the two trays when connected are the hinges and the thickness of the plywood. That area could use more reinforcement or something to make it more stable. I would hate to have something happen when we were eating breakfast. I think that there is enough space on the bottom to include some sort of bar or lock that would keep the two trays aligned.
<font color="blue">I wonder if you might be able to mount a swing-out, telescoping arm underneath the shelf where the galley box sits. I thought I had a photo of something similar, but I've looked until my eyeballs are about to fall out of their sockets, and I can't find one ... 'sorry!
Anyway, if you have room just above the drawer in my photo (if you have a drawer there), maybe you could mount a support arm on a hinge that would swing out and support the one or two trays when you need it, and stow flat against the molded galley when you don't ('hope that makes sense).</font id="blue">
When I build the final version, I plan to include teak edge trim to cover all of the exposed edges.
<font color="blue">That would be a nice touch! I have never liked the "faux" teak that was used in the earlier C-25s (the table, the bulkheads, and the finish in the galley). I built my own replacement table out of teak, but I haven't worked on the other areas. I hope to put a nice teak veneer over those areas one of these days.</font id="blue">
My interior is an "L" shape. When I said that I needed some extra support for the trays, I was talking about when both trays are removed and sitting connected in the cockpit. When the box is open and the trays attached to it, I have a small chain on each side going at 45 deg from the box to the front tray. Hooks and eyelets hold the chain in place.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.