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Hi, I've rebuilt a power boat trailer into a sailboat trailer capable of hauling my cat 25. I used thick walled square aluminum tubing for the bunk posts. I would like to convert to threaded rods so the bunk can swivel. Anyone know whats the smallest threaded rod I can use. I've located 3/4, 1 and 1 1/2inch diameter rods. There are six bunks.
Kayaker Dave, refitting 1982 catalina 25. no sails, no motor, no cushions and trailer needs upgraded to handle 7,000 pound boat
I have 6 bunks and they are steel 1" Acme Thread. You might want to consider rollers for the forward bunks. I have to lower my forward bunks to get the boat off the trailer. The hull has ablative and will not slide on the bunks.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by hewebb</i> <br />I have 6 bunks and they are steel 1" Acme Thread. You might want to consider rollers for the forward bunks. I have to lower my forward bunks to get the boat off the trailer. The hull has ablative and will not slide on the bunks. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Are we talking about bunks or the square pads?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Jefffriday</i> <br />To get mine to slide, I rub bar soap on the bunks before I retrieve it and it slides on and off pretty easily... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Here's another option that's less expensive than the Glyde Sticks -->> [url="http://www.boatersland.com/mkt6810.html?gclid=CNWH9IGTs7kCFSdk7AodkgQA0Q"]Liquid Rollers[/url]
Gary, you are correct I have pads not bunks. I plan to change the front pads to rollers. Been so busy changing the motor out that I have let that one slide.
I just checked another 25 on a trailer and it had 3/4" standard thread rod.
Hi David: Welcome to the forum! I wrote the following then I noticed that you don’t include what boat you have. Revise your ‘signature’ to include what kind of boat you have. Look at the signatures of others and you can figure it out. It would be good to provide a little more info in your bio as well. You will get a lot better information in your replies!
I started with a trailer that was originally built for a 25 ft. motor boat; it was modified to fit the C25 wing keel. It originally had bunks and they converted to have four adjustable, 1-ft square pads on 1" all thread resting in square steel tubing. These were a complete hassle, launching was okay, but retrieval was a nightmare. The pads bounce (on the hard) and rotate or pivot (in the water) when the boat is not on the trailer. More than once I had to wade into the water, down the boat ramp to turn or flip a pad around so I could get the boat back on the trailer. I replaced the pads with one continuous 12' long, 1" X 8" bunk (the old pads were also 1" thick). This provided 1920-sq. inches of surface area on both sides, to hold the boat steady on the trailer vs. the previous 576-sq. inches of support. If I did it again, I would use a 2” X 8” instead of the 1" X 8"
All that being said if I could go back to square one, I would buy or build a trailer, designed like one that the boat originally came with. It seems that the sailors with factory built trailers have a lot less trouble launching and retrieving using the trailer. I hope someone with a factory built (Trailrite, or Easyloader…) trailer can provide some input here. Doug
Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm researching how to convert existing bunk posts from single pivot point swivels to 36 degree swivels using 1 inch threaded rod. This is for a tandem trailer. will send pics later.
couldn't I make a plate for the threaded rod to pass through and bend the sides over the side of the square tubing and bolt through existing holes to hold bunks on trailer while loading boat at ramp?
A steel angle iron with hole in the center on one leg to pivot on each side of the rod will work. I would suggest a 2 X 2 angle with 3/16 thick legs. ( I have seen smaller sizes but I tend to over build things) I can get a photo of mine with the pads to send you and that will also work for bunks. I would suggest 1/2 inch bolts to bolt thru the angle iron and rod
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.