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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Fuel Locker and Battery Cables

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tomh
1st Mate

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83 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/24/2013 : 07:07:18

Need some advice to avoid blowing myself up.

My outboard is mounted on the port side with the starter cable going through the fuel locker and connecting to another cable going to the battery switch. I'm trying to clean up the connections and want to mount a terminal block to the upper side of the locker and use ring terminals to connect the two cables. I bought the terminal block with covers from WM.

My question is: Is it safe to have this connection in the general area of the fuel tank? I'm assuming that most of us have the fuel tank on the bottom of the locker.

All opinions appreciated.

Tom

1978 C25 "Karma" #790
Toledo Beach Marina
LaSalle, Michigan

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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3758 Posts

Response Posted - 08/24/2013 : 07:41:32

I don't remember if the '78 has a separate fuel locker aft of the dumpster or the shelf in the dumpster, but either way I would try to keep the relatively high current cable and terminal block away from the fuel. I replaced the ring terminals on the motor cable with a trolling motor plug and a receptacle on the transom with an uninterrupted cable run to the battery switch. I think if you climb into the dumpster, you will see that there is room to run the cable between the back wall of the fuel locker and the hull.

Edited by - Dave5041 on 08/24/2013 07:45:14

tomh
1st Mate

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Response Posted - 08/24/2013 : 07:50:53

Dave,

My '78 has one open area with a shelf. I always assumed that the fuel tank went in the bottom next to the air vent hose. The tank is a little too big for the shelf and it looked cumbersome to secure on the shelf.

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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4302 Posts

Response Posted - 08/24/2013 : 13:54:02

I'd bet it's illegal or at least not allowed by current day AYBC standards to have any kind of high current connections in the fuel locker.

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tomh
1st Mate

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83 Posts

Response Posted - 08/24/2013 : 18:34:26

The first thing that I want is to be safe. The PO wasn't concerned or didn't know because the wires were plugged together in the locker.

Does anyone know if there are any "best practices" listed anywhere?

Dave, I like the mounting the plug on the transom. Do you have any pictures?

Edited by - on

Dave5041
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3758 Posts

Response Posted - 08/24/2013 : 20:45:16

I take a couple tomorrow since Pearl is in the driveway this summer.

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GaryB
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4302 Posts

Response Posted - 08/24/2013 : 21:26:25

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by tomh
 The first thing that I want is to be safe. The PO wasn't concerned or didn't know because the wires were plugged together in the locker.

Does anyone know if there are any "best practices" listed anywhere?

Dave, I like the mounting the plug on the transom. Do you have any pictures?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Plenty of reading at this site although it looks like you have to pay to see the details.

Scroll down to H-24 & H-25 to get started.

[url="http://portal.abycinc.org/?page=StandardsIndex"]ABYC Standards[/url]

Some interesting publications in the online store too.

Edited by - GaryB on 08/24/2013 21:30:21

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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5352 Posts

Response Posted - 08/25/2013 : 08:27:50

Just a dumb question: do you have enough length on the starter cables to run them into the rear of the quarterberth section under the cockpit sole? Or are they just long enough to reach the fuel locker? Of course you can't pull them taut as it would not allow the engine to turn.
If you could get the cables to reach into the quarterberth, you could pass the cables through the anchor locker, drill a hole into the q'berth to accommodate the cables and a rubber grommet, and feed the cables into the quarterberth where you would make your connections.
A transom-mounted connector would also be a good alternative it if you pass a home-run #4 AWG (?) from the battery thru the locker to the transom plug. Being exposed to the elements, even in fresh water, would mean this will become a yearly maintenance item…
Or while it might not be easy, could you simply fill the current hole with marine tex or a rubber drain plug and drill another to port of the rudder to gain direct access to the quarterberth?

Edited by - on

tomh
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83 Posts

Response Posted - 08/25/2013 : 15:06:55

Bruce,

Sounds like a good way to go. I believe that I do have enough cable on the motor and, if not, I can always get a longer cable. I have a ConnectPro trolling motor plug but need to get the 6ga adapter.

The back of the battery switch (behind the sink)also looks exposed to the fuel locker. I would think that this presents a problem also and should be moved or covered. The port cockpit locker is one big open area.

I intended to rewire the boat in the spring anyway so I could relocate the panel and battery switch to the starboard side.

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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3758 Posts

Response Posted - 08/25/2013 : 15:14:07

I put a couple of phone photos of my plug location in the Gallery - Pearl's Bits and Pieces. Mine is on the starboard side.

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britinusa
Web Editor

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5404 Posts

Response Posted - 08/25/2013 : 15:33:24

[url="https://www.catalina-capri-25s.net/cgi-local/MBR_gallery.cgi?Album+2068+104"]Daves Pics[/url]

Paul

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tomh
1st Mate

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83 Posts

Response Posted - 08/25/2013 : 16:24:40

Dave,

Just saw your pics. Great idea. My motor is on the port side but I'm sure that I can run the cable along the outside of the transom and in through the qtrberth.

Thanks for posting.

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Dave5041
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3758 Posts

Response Posted - 08/25/2013 : 18:32:20

Look from low in the dumpster and go headfirst into the quarterberth. I haven't seen an earlier model, but you might find that you can put the receptacle on the port side and run the cable across inside the transom between the hull and liner. That could be done on Pearl.

Edited by - on

Voyager
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Response Posted - 08/25/2013 : 19:11:36

Dave - I like the receptacle. Looks solid for high current applications.
Tom - With the engine on the port side, I'd try to mount the receptacle as close to centerline (but to port of the rudder) as possible so the cabling passes through the transom into the q'berth.
Just to be clear, what material separates your fender & fuel locker from the quarterberth?
Is there a blower for the fuel locker or just a passive vent?

Edited by - on

tomh
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Response Posted - 08/26/2013 : 04:27:30

Bruce,

It looks like there is a piece of paneling between the two compartments. The venting is passive. Keeping the receptical to the port side of the rudder is a great thought. (Keep it simple).

I'm going up to the boat this week so I can look closer at my options.

Edited by - on

Sloop Smitten
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1181 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2013 : 08:58:11

Tom,
The shelf inside the dumpster on the early C25 models (pre-fuel locker) is intended to hold a 3 gallon fuel tank. I added a leaf addition to the shelf that allows me to use a 6-1/2 gallon tank but it does reduce the access to the rest of the dumpster. The DC connections are also in the dumpster at the forward end and I believe that is how Catalina designed it so I expect it met the requirements of the day. It is imperative that both of the ventilation ports (port & starboard) are connected to vent any fumes that might occur especially the starboard to dumpster hose. When I extended my outboard cables I added a lug to the extension and used a bolt and locknut to connect the two. I then enclosed the connection in two heavy pieces of heat shrink. I like the idea of getting that connection out of the dumpster. Since there are already a ton of connections in there it never occurred to me to route the cables outside of it.

Edited by - on

glen
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359 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2013 : 12:35:03

In regards to the fuel tank, what I did on my 79 (which also has the fuel tank in the dumpster), was to add a second gas line connection to the top of the 6 gallon tank. This connection does not have a fill tube and is only used for venting the tank. I can connect a vent line (made from gas line) with a fitting on one end that matches the connection on the tank. The other end connects to a screened vent that will allow the fumes to vent into the cockpit. I keep the original vent that is located on the cap of the gas tank closed so there are NO fumes vented into the dumpster. I have routed the vent line to the top of the locker, then down to the tank. This loop prevents any rain or water from entering the fuel tank through the vent line. I also used a different brand connection then the one for my outboard, so I can't confuse them and hook the wrong line to the vent. (I have a 9.9 Honda, so for the vent I used an OMC connection)
Like Joe I have extended the shelf to accommodate the larger tank

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Voyager
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Response Posted - 08/29/2013 : 21:42:03

Another thought is liquid tape. I bought this paint-on rubber that dries with a consistency like electrical tape. It should do two things to lower your risk of incident:
1. If you paint it on completely, you can just about entirely cover all electrical connections' metal surfaces. This reduces the chance that a spark could be created.
2. The paint on tape should secure any bolts or nuts or crimp connectors you may be using, so it's very unlikely that movement of the boat and wires should not encourage loosening of connections over time and the creation of arcing connections that have worked themselves loose over time. Good to use lock-washers on nuts and bolts.

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GaryB
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4302 Posts

Response Posted - 08/30/2013 : 03:56:38

http://www.cablejoints.co.uk/upload/3M_Scotch_Mastic_&_Sealing_Tapes___Scotchfil_Putty.pdf

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cshaw
Captain

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460 Posts

Response Posted - 08/30/2013 : 20:06:10

For better or for worse, back in 1976 I installed a heavy duty terminal block in the dumpster to connect the two 9.9 electric start Johnson battery cables to two #4 cables that run over to the centerline of the boat, and then under the 1/4 berth forward to the battery switch and electrical panel.

She did not have a gas tank platform in the dumpster, so I built one out of wood and then coated it with West Epoxy.

I like the idea of the liquid tape over the connections!

Chuck

Edited by - on

tomh
1st Mate

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83 Posts

Response Posted - 09/11/2013 : 05:20:58

OK, so I bought the Marinco trolling motor plug and the 6ga wire adapter. The 6 ga wire leads from the outboard. Is there a new cover to go over the adapter if I use it on the plug side?

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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Response Posted - 09/11/2013 : 21:26:31

I'm not sure exactly what you are asking about.

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tomh
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Response Posted - 09/12/2013 : 06:29:38

Dave,

The cables coming out of the OB are 6 ga. The male part of the plug looks like it will only accept 8 ga and below so there needs to be some sort of adapter on the male plug side.

The actual adapter that is sold is made for the female side.

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Sloop Smitten
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Response Posted - 09/12/2013 : 08:41:11

If you intend to go forward with that connector it sounds like you would need to splice on a section of 8 ga. or snip a few strands off the 6 ga. until it fits the connector. Make sure the connection is fused near the battery. I believe the outboard is fused internally to the cowl as well.

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Dave5041
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Response Posted - 09/12/2013 : 10:53:45

I don't recall if my cables were 6 or 8, but they fit the plug on my system.

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Dave5041
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Response Posted - 09/12/2013 : 11:26:22

I just looked up the gauge; the siamesed factory cables are 8 ga. for cables up to 9 feet and 6 ga. up to 13 feet for Mercury motors up to 25HP. I have no cranking issues suggesting excessive voltage drop. I don't think the 6 ga. is a problem with the 9.9 being in the bottom half of the cranking amps requirement. Either trimming the wires and shaving the insulation or a couple of adhesive, heat-shrink, 6/8 gauge splices and a little 6 ga. wire should solve your issue.

Edited by - Dave5041 on 09/12/2013 11:31:44

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